BetterPhoto Q&A
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Studio lighting & flash meter

Studio lights - Is a shoot-through umbrella mostly used on the main light or the fill light?

Flash meter - (I have a Sekonic 358) Is this the proper way to go about metering in the studio setting?... Set the shutter speed on the meter; with only the main light on, direct the meter towards the camera metering off of your subject; obtain the f-stop value; shut the main light off, turn the fill on & repeat (I understand the fill should be one stop less than the main); then turn both lights on & take another reading (are THESE the settings you set the camera to?) I assume if you had another light (background light) you would repeat the same process...

Shutter speed & aperture - What shutter speed & f/stop are best used in portrait photography, especially w/children?

Thanks for taking the time :)

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September 10, 2006

As to metering, you seem to have the hang of it. Make sure you first set the ISO you're using on the meter and the sync speed you want to work at with your camera. Pointing it toward the camera, you just want to measure the amount of light falling on your subject and ensure you're not blocking the dome on the meter with your hand or body.

I can't remember whether the 358 will allow you to calculate average exposures by saving readings like their older 328. Probably should, so while yes, as rule of thumb, the f stop values you mentioned are ok but not hard and fast rules. In fact, I teach students to learn how to light with a single light first, and become good at that, THEN add one light at a time, checking for hot spots and shutting down the main and then check your entire set-up to make sure you haven't got any hot spots or moved anything during the set-up process.

For kids, the faster the shutter speed the better....lightening !!!! Just kidding. Shutter speed depends on what kind of shutter you have. On my Nikons the flash will sync with the shutter at about 1/60th of a sec or so. For my medium and large format lenses, their shutters will sync at all speeds from one second up to 1/500. The advantage to that allows me to work more accurately with fill flash and available ambient light, but that's a different subject. ;>) Most of my portraiture is done at 125th of a second at f11 on medium format equipment working at ISO 250 on Tri-X Pan black and white film.

As to f-stops, that's really a question about depth of field. Depending on where you're positioned, the higher your f-stop, say between 8.0 and f11, the better your depth of field or sharper your portraits tend to be. So, between 11.0 and f 16, you should be a bit sharper. Conversely, between 5.6 and f 8, your dof will be a bit less and shots might not be quite as sharp. Seewhatimean? For groups, say two or three or more people in a shot, your ought to go for greater depth of field rather than less so the people alongside and their ears, etc., will be sharp. Get the picture?? ;>)

Latah
Mark

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September 10, 2006

Thanks so much for your response. I was playing around today w/my lights and meter and I think I have it down. Great info.

Diane

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September 10, 2006

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September 10, 2006

Thanks. I'll be sure and try your suggestions.

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September 11, 2006