#691851

One of the difficulties in shooting this group of images was finding high quality coins. For U.S. coins it is relatively easy to get what are called proof coins, these are finished to a higher quality than the normal coinage. For European coins I had to search coin shops over much of Los Angeles to find the best coins I could get.

This was shot with a Toyo C 4X5 camera and a Zeiss 63mm Luminar, a lens specially created for micro work. I believe I used one light source and reflectors for fill. Of course on something this small the reflectors were only a couple of inches in size. The light source was probably a Tungsten balanced bulb, such as an ECA. These have some advantages with very small products: they work like large light sources since they are bigger than the product. In addition the continuous light makes it possible to focus at an effective aperture of about f180. Between the bellows extension and the need for at least a couple of millimeters of depth of field things are awfully dark this close to a small product.

I have an article about shooting with a microscope here at BetterPhoto. You can check it out at http://www.betterphoto.com/article.php?id=185.

Thanks! John Siskin
#4513884

I can't compete with your Toyo C 4x5, but my Canon 5D seems to do a great job. Wish I could land a Mamiya AFDII with Kodak digital back. One day.

Appreciate the reply. #4515971

You meant f/18, yes? At that smaller aperture your DOF would be much increased. Thus the need for the lights & a tripod. It takes a lot of tinkering to get the play of light & shadow just right.

Thanks John
#4519925

At any time if this discussion becomes too time-consuming for you, let me know. Perhaps you might know of a forum where this type of discussion is normal. Otherwise I am gaining insight from our discussion & am enjoying this. #4521538

If you want to take pictures where the capture is larger than life on the sensor it is not so difficult, but keep in mind that larger than life on the sensor means much larger than life on the print. If you shoot twice life size onto a full frame sensor and then make an 8X10 print you have blown up an area that was already 2X, eight more time for a total of 16X. The lens you want for this is a short lens, like a 28mm and you probably want a fixed focal length lens, rather than a zoom. If you put this lens on a long extension tube you will focus quite close on an object. Lighting can be quite tricky, if you are on a tripod or copy stand you can use continuous light like the bulbs I mentioned. If you are trying to hand hold you will need a strobe, or strobes that light from the side. You can zone focus, which means move back and forth until you are in the area you want is in focus, then hit the shutter.

Another way to do this optically is to get a 4X microscope lens and a microscope thread to T-Mount adapter. This fits into the appropriate T-Mount for your camera. T-Mount was an early universal lens mount, and still works quite well, except that everything on the lens including the diaphragm is manual. Then you can put this on your extension tube. This is a very reasonably priced option.
Thanks, John Siskin
Ps. There are some color studies on my website at BetterPhoto that are very extreme micro shots.
#4522624

Just so you know I have been manually focusing my Canon 100 F/2.8 for the shots lately. So that is my preference as DOF has to be nailed spot on. My practice has not been extensive.

Also the lights I saw in your article appeared to be typical halogen desk lamps. but I believe you said you were using ECA bulbs Tungsten balanced in camera or Raw settings. Do you recall where you bought the actual lamps? I know you mentioned a site for microscope lens, but I want to be sure I get the correct lamps. I did see some of the bulbs were normal incandescent style screw-in ends.

Thanks John #4524113

Practice is critical with this kind of work. You must also test equipment and test it in new ways. People often approach me as if I have all the answers. Obviously this isn’t true. What I do have is an extensive array of equipment for this work, including a Leitz microscope, bellows, extension tubes, microscope lenses and a half dozen specialize micro lenses for shooting micro. I also have several different ways to light micro products. All this is important, but it is also important that I have a couple of decades experience in doing this kind of work.

I use the desk lamps with the microscope sometimes, but I am not suggesting that you use a microscope for your current project, just a microscope lens. You probably do not want these lights, to shoot a watch. The bulbs I mentioned are available at large photo retailers. I got mine from a store that is not in business any more.
Thanks, John Siskin
#4527049