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BetterPhoto Q&A
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 MaryAnn L. Oakland member since: 3/29/2004 |
How to Shoot Waterfalls 5/5/2004 10:54:00 AM |
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Gregory LaGrange
gregorylagrange.org member since: 11/11/2003 |
Go down to around 1/15. You need turbulence to get the effect. It usually looks better if it's an overcast day or if the water is in the shade.
5/5/2004 11:31:49 AM |
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MaryAnn L. Oakland member since: 3/29/2004 |
Thank you, will try that.
5/7/2004 6:13:06 AM |
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Bob Cammarata
cammphoto.com member since: 7/17/2003 |
The thing to keep in mind when selecting a shutter speed is that the human eye (and brain) sees motion at 1/60 second. A waterfall shot at that speed will look much it does to the naked eye. Any setting longer than that will cause the water to blur. Obviously, the longer the exposure time, the more pronounced the effect will be. What Gregory said about cloudy days or shade is very important, as it allows for the longer exposure times without blowing out the highlights. A slow film or ASA setting will help also. At ASA 100, speeds of 1 full second or more are possible on cloudy days or in deep shade.
5/7/2004 7:12:41 AM |
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Gregory LaGrange
gregorylagrange.org member since: 11/11/2003 |
Better add that when I say go down to 1/15 of a second I mean correctly exposed at 1/15. Don't just put the shutter speed at that. You need an aperture that will give you 1/15, because I just noticed you said you overexposed at 160th. So you're about to really overexpose by just changing the shutter speed.
5/7/2004 11:05:50 AM |
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Scott Pedersen member since: 11/18/2001 |
In order to get the right shutter speed/aperture combination, you will need to use a slower film like 100 or maybe 200, and you will have to visit it in the evening or early morning. In the middle of the day you have too much light to get the right combination. Actually, early morning is the time to do it as there is usually no one else around to get into your photo.
5/11/2004 4:28:35 AM |
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MaryAnn L. Oakland member since: 3/29/2004 |
You have all been so helpful, thanks so much. I am going to print this out and follow this next chance I get.
5/11/2004 5:51:34 AM |
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Darren K. Fisher Contact Darren Darren's Gallery member since: 4/7/2002 |
When I am out shooting water, it is always done on an overcast day. This helps make the scene darker, along with using a polarizer, which darkens the scene more and helps take glare off of rocks. Another thing this does is gives you more realistic colors - on a normal day, your water will have blue tints and most likely hot spots. I normally use the settings of f/16 and anywhere from 1 sec or higher - the longer your exposure the more blurred your water will be. Another tip for you is to use a cable release or your timer on the camera. Hope this helps.
5/11/2004 6:26:25 AM |
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Bill Lewis member since: 8/15/2003 |
5/12/2004 6:31:29 PM |
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Bob Cammarata
cammphoto.com member since: 7/17/2003 |
Thanks, Bill, for that great tip about timing something floating by. I spend a lot of time shooting moving water, and I'll definitely remember that when I go again.
5/12/2004 9:59:10 PM |
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Ken Brown member since: 5/10/2003 |
If you're shooting 400 or 800 speed film, you'll never obtain a shutter speed slow enough even at very small apertures. If you routinely use fast film, you might want to use a neutral density filter, which reduces the amount of light entering the lens and thus necessitating longer exposure times.
5/15/2004 6:05:19 PM |
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John L. Webb member since: 2/20/2004 |
All the perfect answers are above by this group. I use variations for all of the above with a nod to my own personal taste allwing the whites to blow out a bit but again, only for my own taste. I also have made use of a plain grey card for my aperture shutter speed guides as wel as not allowing the scene to fool any of my meters. I try lower angles and try to position something in the foreground such as a large rock formation to give the scene depth. In color, I have had my wife sprinkle rose petals upstream to catch them coming down for a splash of color.
5/18/2004 5:57:59 AM |
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Eugene W. Juergensen member since: 11/27/2003 |
The best and most reasonable way to take care of old box camera negatives and to get them printed. Once the picture is on the computer one can work wonders with the prints. Thanks for your help and suggestions. Rev. Eugene W. Juergensen 5/18/2004 8:53:53 AM |
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