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BetterPhoto Q&A
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 Wendy Wyatt Contact Wendy Wendy's Gallery shootinstarphoto.com member since: 11/22/2008 |
Lens for Studio Photos What lens should I get for studio photos so that I can stay in the same room with them while taking their picture? I have a 70-200 for outside action shots. I would like to know what would be the best other lens to have. 11/26/2009 10:58:26 AM |
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Carlton Ward Contact Carlton Carlton's Gallery carltonwardphoto.com member since: 12/13/2005 |
I love my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS lens for portraits. The added compression is very flattering. I also use the 24-70mm f/2.8L and 135mm f/2L prime lens, but the 70-200 is usually my first choice. Some of my best animal portraits are done with the 100-400mm f/4.5L lens. Set at f/7.1, the subject is extremely sharp, and with the background 10 feet behind the subject, the bokeh is very smooth. Check my gallery and look for the EMU and Parrot pics to see the 100-400 lens :) Have a wonderful "Thankful Day" today. 11/26/2009 12:10:29 PM |
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Wendy Wyatt Contact Wendy Wendy's Gallery shootinstarphoto.com member since: 11/22/2008 |
11/27/2009 11:03:08 AM |
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Carlton Ward Contact Carlton Carlton's Gallery carltonwardphoto.com member since: 12/13/2005 |
Hi Wendy, You will need to use more Depth of Field to get the dog and the child both focused and sharp. What f/stop are you using? Try f/8 or f/11, and see if this is better. Lens selection also affects the characteristics of the DOF used. I have shot lots of small groups of people at f/7.1 with good results. With a smaller aperture, you will need to adjust either shutter speed or ISO (second choice) but with strobes, this is easily manageable. Are you shooting Raw? Adjusting white balance and exposure are much easier and less destructive working with Raw images. Hope this helps! 11/27/2009 12:06:58 PM |
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Dennis Flanagan member since: 12/31/2005 |
Wendy, the lens choice depends heavily on two things: the size of your room and the camera. If your camera has a lens magnification factor of 1.5, then 70mm is probably too long a focal length. Are you using strobes? If so, I set mine for 1/250 and f11. You still want to try keeping most faces close to the same focal plane. Either by camera angle or by posing (of both). If I have two rows of people, I still try to put their faces close to the same plane. One way to do this is shooting from a high angle. 11/27/2009 7:10:44 PM |
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John H. Siskin
John-Siskin.com John's Photo Courses: 4-Week Short Course: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting 4-Week Short Course: Getting Started in Commercial Photography 4-Week Short Course: Portrait Photography Lighting on Location and in the Studio |
Hi Wendy, Everyone’s comments have made a lot of sense. However, I’m guessing that your shot was made with continuous light, maybe the fluorescents that are supposed to be OK for photography. I have my doubts about that. I think some of the sharpness issues, with the dog, are caused by movement. Strobes generally solve that problem, because the duration of a strobe is about 1/1000th of a second. Not much happens in that amount of time. You might want to look at this article about types of light: www.betterphoto.com/article.asp?id=195 Thanks. 11/28/2009 11:24:57 AM |
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