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Photography QnA: Digital Image Problems

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Category: What's Wrong With My Photographic Technique? : Problems with Images : Digital Image Problems

Trying to avoid grainy digital images? Wondering how to soften digital images? Ask these questions and more in this Q&A discussion.

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Photography Question 
Sharon Barberee

member since: 4/15/2004
  1 .  Attention, Digital Rebel Users: Blurry Pictures?
I would like to know from other Canon Digital Rebel users if they have experienced any problems with their photos being slightly blurry? I use a tripod and still can't seem to get really clear sharp photos.

4/10/2005 3:59:20 PM

  Other than operator error? No. I love the camera!!
Bob

4/10/2005 4:29:07 PM

Dan Smith
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 1/4/2005
  No, I have owned the Digital Rebel since Christmas and have taken 2000 pictures and not 1 complaint. What lens, ISO, filter, lighting are you using?

4/10/2005 7:31:03 PM

Jon Close
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 5/18/2000
  In addition to "what lens/ISO/filter/lighting" ... How are you saving the files? RAW? JPG: Large-Fine, Large-Normal, Medium-Fine, Medium-Normal, Small-Fine, Small-Normal? If JPG, what Parameter settings are you using? Are you applying sharpening in post-processing?

4/11/2005 6:54:40 AM

Scott Teichman

member since: 3/1/2005
  Yes, I found the same thing. I found that I can take a number of shots in a row and some are in focus and some are soft. I save the files as Large-Fine jpg's and use Parameter 1 for processing and have 2 lenses. As far as ISO, filters etc, that really shouldn't make a difference here if some are good and some aren't. I think the camera may be focussing a little in front or behind where I want it to.

4/12/2005 6:50:25 AM

Karma Wilson
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2004
  I've heard of issues with the EOS line focusing in front of or behind the subject when you reposition. I haven't had too many problems. My biggest problems with soft lenses have come from crappy lenses...specifically lower grade sigmas (not the EX line which I love).

Karma

4/12/2005 10:45:13 AM

Karma Wilson
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2004
  I've heard of issues with the EOS line focusing in front of or behind the subject when you reposition. I haven't had too many problems. My biggest problems with soft lenses have come from crappy lenses...specifically lower grade sigmas (not the EX line which I love).

Karma

4/12/2005 10:45:58 AM

Scott Teichman

member since: 3/1/2005
  It's not just us though Sharon. I have a friend with a Nikon D70 and he has the same complaint. It's probably a problem inherent in some of the low end (even Canon) AF lenses. Some people get good ones, others aren't so lucky.

4/12/2005 12:04:44 PM

Cyndee Wanyonyi
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 4/7/2005
  I had this problem too! Then I realized that the little button with + and - sign (dioptric adjustment) is actually a way to compromise the focus in order to be able to shoot without glasses. So, I just adjusted the dioptric (say that five times fast)thing and WA-LAH! It's perfect :).

4/12/2005 12:56:02 PM

Bobby  W. Curry

member since: 1/18/2004
  I have never had a problem with my Digital Rebel and I had it over a year now. I even shoot in raw format and never had a blur picture. What kind of len or lens are you using?

4/12/2005 12:57:47 PM

Patricia A. Cale
BetterPhoto Member
photosbyphotobug.com

member since: 3/25/2002
  I got the Digital Rebel when it first came out and have not had any problems with focusing...except for when I didn't focus right!! And, I've shot about 8,000 images with it, both on a tripod and handheld.

If the dioptric adjustment doesn't work, are you using autofocus or manually focusing? Autofocus may focus on a part of the scene or subject you may not want to focus on.

4/12/2005 1:15:07 PM

Subra Mallampalli

member since: 10/3/2004
  Blur can be a subjective thing. The sharpest of pictures can be blurred when blown up too much.

What is your image resolution, jpeg quality, and how are you viewing the image? On a computer, at what % are you viewing the image? On a print, what size is your picture (4x6, 8x10, etc)?

It might help if you could post a piture here.

Subra

4/12/2005 1:16:55 PM

Subra Mallampalli

member since: 10/3/2004
  Also, was the picture taken indoors or outdoors (wind can be a factor in both camera shake as well as subject shake).

Was the subject static or moving?

What was your exposure and shutter speed? There might not be enough depth of field to render your entire subject area sharp. The camera could also have been focussed elsewhere. Depending on your shutter speed, the effect of the slr mirror slamming up can cause shake (mitigated by using mirror lock). Try using the self-timer function to take the picture - the action of pressing the shutter trigger button could cause shake even on a tripod.

Finally, is the image a low contrast image or a high contrast image? How is the lighting? The human brain is wired to detect sharp edges faster, so a very sharp gray line will not be perceived as sharp as a less sharper black line.

The quality of the lens also plays a role in the contrast and brilliance of the picture.

There are just too many factors that could be at play here.

Subra

4/12/2005 1:29:37 PM

Karen  Talasco
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 4/5/2003
  My father has this camera and it also doesn't focus right, no matter what lens, or settings on the camera. He uses the Canon lens that came with it. My 3.2MP Olympus takes much better, clearer photos than this Cannon. I took his and my camera out and did a comparison test. I have even used identical settings and the Olympus shots still come out better. He has sent it back to Canon once already and they replaced something on it, but it still does it. He's sending it back again.

4/12/2005 4:58:02 PM

Christopher A. Vedros
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 3/14/2005
  Okay, let's look at the facts:

1. I have the Digital Rebel, and have taken thousands of pictures with it, so I know it is capable of taking sharp pictures.

2. I have also taken lots of pictures that didn't come out the way I wanted them too, so I know I'm capable of making mistakes.

3. Lots & lots of people have this camera, so if several or even a dozen people on this site are having problems, saying that they couldn't ALL be making the same mistakes is not necessarily true. It's a very popular and highly rated camera, so there are many, many users who apparently aren't having problems.

Instead of saying, "If you're having problems, they you must be doing this wrong," I'll list a few of the mistakes that I have made to result in blurry pictures.

SLOW SHUTTER SPEED -- This is probably the biggest. Even with the shortest, lightest lens, unless I'm REALLY careful, I can't handhold with a shutter speed much slower than 1/60 and get a sharp picture. I'm just not steady enough. If you're shooting indoors without a flash, you may end up with a shutter speed that is too slow for shaky hands or moving subjects.

AUTOFOCUS SELECTION -- I have taken many pictures where the subject was off-center, and I took the picture without realizing that the camera had selected an AF point that was not on my subject, but on something slightly behind or in front of it. If I take my time, press the shutter halfway, and pay attention to what AF spot blinks, then I'll know if the camera is focusing on what I want it to. Of course, this problem is more likely when you are using a large aperture and have little depth of field. I would bet that those of you who are getting blurry pictures have more trouble indoors than you do outside in decent light.

FLASH RECYCLE TIME -- If you are taking pictures quickly and using the flash, you are likely to snap a picture before the flash recycles, resulting in a slow shutter speed.

LENS ON MANUAL FOCUS -- There have been several times, especially when changing lenses, that I have inadvertantly switched the lens to MF. You may take a picture without realizing that the camera is not achieving AF. One way to help avoid this is to turn on the BEEP on the camera settings menu. This will make the camera beep when it achieves autofocus. You will get used to hearing the beep, and will notice if you don't.

I'm sure I can think of some of the other mistakes I've made (which may or may not help you realize yours). First I have to put the kids in bed.

Later,
Chris

4/12/2005 5:46:31 PM

  Aaaannnddd, in the heat of the moment, forgetting which mode I'm in....and the flash pops up or that darn "not in focus" light starts blinking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob ( who misses at times not having kids to put in bed)

4/12/2005 6:25:32 PM

Cheryl Hutton

member since: 1/26/2005
  YES! My co-worker and I were on the waiting list for the Rebel in Sept 03. When it came out we got them at two different Cord Camera shops the same week. We purchased two lenses and went crazy taking pictures. I hardly ever had a bad picture in any of the auto modes. Mostly family shots, lots of sports with kids and vacations. My friend came in one day and asked if I was having focus problems in the auto modes. I was not. She took hers to Cord in Indy and they said it was malfunctioning and they sent it in to canon. Canon did the repair under the 1 yr warranty. She had one month left on the warranty when it went out. In November 2004 (2 months after the warranty expired)mine started doing the same thing. I called and told canon the story. They said send it in and they would make good on it. Well, I should have got a name and department because 4 weeks later I recieved an invoice for the estimate charge and they wanted my credit card # prior to looking at it. I called again and was told they would go ahead and do the service but the service would not have a warranty and there would be no charge. Service done replaced shutter unit and repaired mirror box. THE SAME THINGS ON MY FRIENDS INVOICE!!! So there is something wrong with those first ones shipped and they don't want to admit it. It is working great again as it did the first 13 months!!
Cheryl H.

4/12/2005 8:02:57 PM

Scott Teichman

member since: 3/1/2005
  In my case it's either a shutter speed that's too slow or the camera itself. I use the auto focus with the beeper on, I have the auto focus point locked on the center and it's not the flash. When I shoot portraits, I usually use the exposure lock, focus on the persons' eyes and then recompose and the fact remains that one shot will be in focus and the next won't. To some extent I'm hoping it is me because I'd hate to lose my camera to Canon for a month.

4/13/2005 7:42:41 AM

Patricia A. Cale
BetterPhoto Member
photosbyphotobug.com

member since: 3/25/2002
  A friend of mine got the 20D and had a focusing problem. All her shots were out of focus. She found out that she need to have ALL the focus points active when using autofocus. She changed the settings and it's worked since. I made all my points active, and have no problem getting shots of my 2 year-old grandson on autofocus, even when he's moving.

4/13/2005 8:12:53 AM

Wayne Oliver

member since: 3/23/2004
 
 
 
Hope this can help, Most shoots taken
with DSLR need processing just like film.
Your 300d is set to factory settings, so the sharp setting is set to the middle balance. What you need to do is use PSP or
PS or PSE and use fILTER unsharp mask and you will see a change in your photo. Try using this as your setting, Amount 118 Raduis 4.0 Threshold 2
Keep your cam sharp set to default.
Here are two photos before and after.

4/13/2005 9:08:05 PM

Wayne Oliver

member since: 3/23/2004
 
 
 
photos

4/13/2005 9:11:43 PM

Karin Marocchi

member since: 2/17/2004
  When I first bought the camera (Oct 04) I was having the same problems - thought my eyesight was going! I always shot aperture priority on my film camera & was really thrown off by the "slow sync" feature. It operated completely different from what I was used to. I started using the auto focus until I learned the various settings. (I turned off the 7 point focus & just used the center focus). Also, as someone else mentioned, check the dioptric setting. After changing these two things I've been very happy with the results. I still can't get used to the aperture priority settings, but it's forced me to learn how to shoot using the manual settings. Good Luck.

4/15/2005 3:04:15 PM

Christopher A. Vedros
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 3/14/2005
  Karin,
When you say you turned off the 7-point focus and just use the center focus, how exactly did you do that? I've been trying to figure out how to set that myself.

Chris

4/15/2005 4:25:35 PM

  In anything but auto and the preprogrammed modes....just hit the top right-hand thumb button on the back of the camera and the focus button map shows on rear readout...roll the whatever button behind the picture-taker button to select the focus point....Gee, I love this technical jargon....Is that what you meant??..:-)
Bob

4/15/2005 4:59:52 PM

Karin Marocchi

member since: 2/17/2004
  Chris - here's my attempt at an explanation. Like Bob, I didn't know what to call the buttons - but I think I like his terminology better. It's also on page 62 of the manual

On the top right of the back panel, there's a button above the magnifier symbol. After pressing, look at the top left of your display, (where the shutter speed is indicated). As you rotate the dial it will change from all 7 points to any of the individual points. Just select the point you want to use.
Karin

4/18/2005 6:43:35 PM

Christopher A. Vedros
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 3/14/2005
  Okay, I've done that before. When I read your post, I thought there might be a way to set this as a default, not just with each exposure.

It's no big deal, there are only certain cases where I would want to default to the center spot, for most cases, the 7-pont AF works fine.

4/18/2005 7:32:19 PM

Karin Marocchi

member since: 2/17/2004
  Chris - that does change it to the default. I changed that setting months ago & have never had to reset it.

4/19/2005 4:02:39 PM

Mellanie 

member since: 7/16/2004
  Karin's right....once you set it to the point you want it, it will stay there until you change it again.

4/19/2005 6:23:01 PM

Andrew Laverghetta
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/13/2004
  so, I was wondering, when you are using digital and you say that you are having problems with an image and you have to explain it, why not upload a photo? It would be a lot easier to diagnose a problem if we saw what you were seeing along with what the camera was set to, including shutter speed, aperture size, and ISO....Just a though though...

4/19/2005 8:23:52 PM

Philip Massey

member since: 4/22/2005
 
 
 
I have just got a 350d and seem to have similar problems. Please view the picture below.

Shutter 1/100 f.7.1

ISO 400 - Kit lens

4/23/2005 4:32:33 AM

Philip Massey

member since: 4/22/2005
 
 
  soft hand
soft hand
f7.1 1/100 ISO 400
 
 
Try my gallery for the image - its called soft hand

4/23/2005 4:35:08 AM

Sharon Barberee

member since: 4/15/2004
  Zeese I did not realize there had been so many resposes to my question concerning blurry photos. My emails stopped letting me know someone had responded . I also, (FOR THOSE WHO WONDERED) tried to attach a photo for all of your critiques but unfornuately was unable to do so. I kept being redirected back to my gallery . They were there but somehow never made it to the Q&A section... Their are two photos in my gallery that were taken recently with this camera if you care to look. I would appreciate somemore suggestions as to what is up with this thing. The two shots are a black and white , color mix. Thanks to you all for your suggestions, I wish I had known their were so many of you !

4/27/2005 1:57:36 PM

Mellanie 

member since: 7/16/2004
 
 
 
Philip and sharon, I do believe if you use a photo editor and sharpen your images, you will see a big difference. Philip, here is your hand sharpened.

4/27/2005 2:23:13 PM

Philip Massey

member since: 4/22/2005
  thanks mellanie - what setting did u use (was it an unsharp mask).

I have been researching and have found that pics from all Dslr's need some sort of post processing (canon design there camera's that way) and now I have played around with it I am really happy with my camera.

I actually like the fact I control sharpness/contrast etc. Like developing a negative for yourself!!

Digital Relbel XT + Photoshop CS = Amazing images!

4/27/2005 5:59:38 PM

Mellanie 

member since: 7/16/2004
  Hey Philip, I was at work and just used the Kodak photo editor on my computer. But usually I use PS 7.0 unsharpen mask and just play with the sliders until my images look okay....just make sure not to oversharpen!

4/27/2005 6:15:43 PM

Aaron  Reyes
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 2/8/2005
  Cynthia W.
i couldn't see the dioptric settings change the actual focus of your image unless you are manual focusing. it's not linked to your lens except visually so the lens will focus as it should despite these settings.
Karen T.
compairing your olympus to a dslr is not a fair test. the much larger cmos chip on the rebel makes a world of difference on the DOF. so the same settings are not really the same settings.
Scott T.
after getting the exposure lock from zooming in, do you re-focus after zooming out and then take the picture. if you are still holding down the shutter release half way after you zoom out, it holds the focus from the zoomed in shot and your first picture would be blurry, then the second one isn't because you released the shutter button and it was able to refocus at your new focal length.

i've heard that the rebel and rebel xt actually have the default on the in camera sharpening set higher that the 20d because it's more of a consumer camera and not pro. they assumed people that would buy the rebels wouldn't be post processing most of the time...maybe that was just the rebel and not the xt?
thanks
-aaron


8/26/2005 8:27:01 AM

Steve Fels

member since: 4/19/2005
  I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one having this problem. I was begining to think old age had finally caught up with me and it was me that was shaking while taking the shot....Ive only had the 350D for a few weeks now and have been very dissapointed with the auto focus. I usually shoot apeture-priority (largest apeture, fastest shutter speed)but still get less than acceptable results. I have 4 lenses and seem to get the same result with every one. Unless I can find a solution I'm tempted to throw it into the cupboard and go back to using the good old reliable Nikon 5700.
Steve

9/3/2005 12:57:14 PM

Andrew Laverghetta
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/13/2004
  I think anybody that's having a problem really needs to post an image of their pictures that are "out of focus." I still think more of it is the picture not being sharpened enough for one's tastes.

9/3/2005 2:39:46 PM

Joy Fender

member since: 11/6/2005
  Hope you all don't mind my jumping into the "game" so long after this post originally started! But I have to agree with Andrew *whole heartedly*. When I first got my 300D (in Dec '04), I was so frustrated during those first couple of months. My images were so soft and (what I believe) "blurred". I also had major issues with camera shake. My small hands and weak wrists were not up to the challenge of such a heavy camera, battery pack and lens!

After MUCH research on forums like this one, I learned the following:

* I have to use a higher shutter speed than 1/focal length. Period. When using my zooms (28-200 and 17-85 USM IS), I rarely let it go below 1/125 unless I use a tripod. This "rule" of mine gave me instance results.

* Post processing is my friend! I learned that using a DSLR means you almost ALWAYS have to boost the sharpness (via USM) if you stick with the standard parameter settings. And you should, IMHO. You can always add...you can't take away.

* Learning and accepting the capabilities and limitations of my lenses was also a huge help. There are certain shots I'm not going to be able to master with my current lenses. There is no one lens that can do it all.

There is of course always going to be that one-off camera that DOES have a issue that is a defect that needs fixing. That's the nature of the beast.

Joy

9/8/2005 12:35:57 PM

Fred Murray
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/26/2005
  Hi, I just joined yesterday and I have a Rebel XT since last June. I too noticed the pictures were not as sharp as other less expensive digital cameras. I went to Canon's FAQ list and found this....


The raw image data, emitted as an electronic signal from the CCD or CMOS image sensor of the digital cameras, may not have enough sharpness and original (natural) colors to be acceptable. As a general solution, the raw image data from the image sensor is electronically proceeded in various ways to make the image files. This process, "image processing," enables the electronic conversion of the contrast, sharpness (edge sharpness) and color parameters. The characteristics of each digital camera, by model or by manufacturers, are derived from this image correction process; how and how much each parameter is corrected in image processing of the camera.
In addition, a JPEG file is a compressed file of image data converted with this image processing.


When you increase the correction of sharpness (edge sharpness), the image becomes crisper and sharper.
On the other hand, there is also a negative effect; higher edge sharpness can be accompanied by a noise element called "edge noise." The best amount of correction depends on your taste or what the final output for the image is meant to be.
When the original image has had moderate corrections, it is possible to add greater correction to your image later. However, if you added a large correction to your original image, any quality that is lost due to edge noise will be lost forever. For example, once you have made a large correction of sharpness (edge sharpness) to your image, the edge noise element increases. It is impossible to eliminate the edge noise element later by correcting the image with any retouching software.


Canon digital SLR cameras are designed to perform moderate edge sharpness corrections of your original image. This is based on Canon's source-oriented policy, rich information of the original image should be recorded and kept for the later processing flexibility. Therefore, if you view the recorded image without any modifications, you may see that the image is not enough sharp nor have enough contrast. In this case, the image can be sharpened to your taste by processing with retouching software later.
Also, adjusting the sharpness (edge sharpness) is possible by changing the processing parameter of your camera before the image is recorded as a JPEG file. For further information about the processing parameter, please refer to your Camera User Guide.

Well, there you have it!

9/27/2005 9:04:56 PM

Respond | Ask Your Own Question
 
Photography Question 
Willie 

member since: 12/2/2004
  2 .  Reoccurring Spot in My Photos
Hello,
I have a new Canon 20D and I am noticing a spot in my photos. I've noticed that they show up with both of my lenses, so it's not the lens.
What can I do to remove that spot?
Thanks in advance!

1/21/2005 9:53:00 AM

Michael H. Cothran

member since: 10/21/2004
  Best-case scenario: You've got a piece of foreign material (dust, lint, etc.) on your sensor chip. Read your manual carefully, and follow the instructions for cleaning the chip. If Canon doesn't recommend cleaning it yourself, abide by what they recommend. Be careful with it.

Worst-case scenario: You've got some dead sensors already, but I would imagine that a new 20D would be fully covered under warranty if this is the case.

1/21/2005 3:21:27 PM

Luis Curran

member since: 9/13/2004
  Check out:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1019
for discussions on cleaning your sensor (yes, it does sound as if you've got a speck of dust on your sensor).
At first, try and blow it out with a good blower. If that doesn't work then you'll have to clean it. DON'T ever touch the sensor without your knowing what you're doing - that's why you might want to check out the discussion forums on this issue.
Signed - a fellow Canon SLR user.

1/25/2005 7:02:22 PM

Stephen F. Kahrs

member since: 5/24/2004
  I was also getting spots on my 10D, (usually round)in some of my photos as well. Once I cleaned the sensor, the spots were gone. Read the manual on sensor cleaning.

1/25/2005 8:02:52 PM

John Tremblay

member since: 6/10/2004
  I have the same thing on my 300D. At first I thought it was lens flare. Kinda round, not very sharp - almost like a water drop on a negative. I've had the camera for a year and I can count on one finger the number of times I've removed the lens. Should I expect this regularly?

1/26/2005 6:49:24 AM

Luis Curran

member since: 9/13/2004
  John, what kind of lens do you have on your 300D? Sometimes the push/pull telephoto lens can acquire dust because of the movement of going in and out. Also, sometimes second party lenses may not be as 'good' as Canon lens but that's just hearsay - I'm not sure it's ever been proven.
I use a Sigma 18-124 mm as my walkabout lens and have never had any trouble with it.

1/26/2005 8:41:06 AM

John Tremblay

member since: 6/10/2004
  it's the standard lens that came with the camera - a canon. That's good info though as I am looking for another lens.

I will try cleaning it. I suppose once a year isn't too bad.

1/26/2005 9:03:24 AM

Leni Gaston

member since: 1/9/2003
  I am wondering what's up with the new Canon 20D. I bought a new 20D and the first day I had it, it had the same spot problem. The spot showed up on all my pictures. I was able to exchange it, but it cost me $45 in postage. Now, the new camera I received in exchange has a problem with the shutter sticking. I had Canon load the new firmware update and it hasn't fixed the problem. Otherwise I love the camera.

1/31/2005 9:17:47 PM

Luis Curran

member since: 9/13/2004
  See my posting above - go to http://www.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1019
and do a search. There has been quite a bit of discussion on the issue of locking.

1/31/2005 9:32:21 PM

Kix  Pix

member since: 3/21/2004
  This is why I shoot Nikon. ha ha ha.

That sucks about the shipping charges and then getting another problem. I'd rather have the old one back and then clean the sensor myself.

4/14/2007 8:44:52 PM

Respond | Ask Your Own Question
 
Photography Question 
VAL SMIRNOF

member since: 6/6/2004
  3 .  Image Size to Upload
I am thinking about Deluxe Web Site. I am not clear how to make 500 pixels x 750 pixels at 72 ppi. I have an excellent Nikon Coolscan V and can scan from 35mm slides and negatives the files up to 60meg in TIFF. But I am not clear how to make a 500kb file in JPEG with 550X750pixels output.
Please advise. Thanks.

11/24/2004 7:35:25 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  Change the image size in Photoshop or a similar alternative. Click on image . under that there's image size. The following window shows pixel dimensions. Change the shortest side to 500 or less. Save it as a JPEG. A resized 60meg might be too big to try and upload as a TIFF.

11/25/2004 3:34:17 AM

Carolina K. Smith
CarolinaSmith.com

member since: 3/28/2004
  Val, I save all my website/contest uploads as TIFF (better Quality). At 500 x 750, the upload size is an ~ 1 MB file.
Open your scanned large Tiff files in PS. Go to Image, then Image Size.
For starters, click (check mark) Constrain Proportions and Scale Styles, and Resample Image. For 'Resample Image', choose Bicubic Sharper. (A general rule of thumb is to use Bicubic Smoother when upsizing, and Bicubic Sharper when downsizing).

Now go to the Resolution box (keep it at pixels/inch) under 'Document Size'
and type in 72. When you do, you will see everything else change automatically (because you checked 'constrain proportions', and your 'width' and 'height' should be close to the 500 x 750 numbers. The actual numbers may vary some from picture to picture, depending on how you cropped it. Don't worry about it. (Sometimes after this, I may uncheck 'constrain proportions' and adjust the individual height and width a bit)
Now click OK, and you will see the smaller file show up.
VERY VERY IMPORTANT...
Don't just 'Save As' the file, but when you go to File, then Save As, make sure you check the box 'As a Copy' under Save Options!!!!

If you don't check the 'As a Copy' option, your original file will be saved as a super low res 72 dpi permanently (if that happens, you can not regain that info, in your case you would have to rescan the photo or slide). I would choose to save as a tiff file, especially if this will be on your Web site (my two cents).
Now click the Save button.
You have now created a new 72dpi file.
At this point, I close the original file, and when the box comes up that asks if you want to save changes, CHOOSE NO!!! This way, the original file will close with no information lost, and you will now have the large file and the small (for uploading file). Hope that helps :)

11/28/2004 7:22:45 AM

Carolina K. Smith
CarolinaSmith.com

member since: 3/28/2004
  I don't know if your scanned images will open up in PS as 8-bit or 16-bit files. If they are 16-bit files, you might want to go to Image, then Mode, and change them to 8-bit. This will shrink a 60 MB file to 30 MB and then when you choose 72 dpi and constrain proportions, the file size will be in the ballpark.

Actually, no matter how big the original file size is, if you get the width and height down to 500 x 750 pixels, it will always be ~ 1 MB file size., but the other way I described is just the workflow method I prefer.

My Kodak DCS Pro SLR/n files open (after converting from "raw") as ~ 76 MB file sizes. After I do any corrections or adjustments, I change them to 8-bit files (38 MB file sizes) and use the above stated workflow, and it works pretty well for me :)

11/28/2004 7:32:54 AM

Robert Brosnan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/17/2003
  I have an old Kodak software program from my 1st digital camera. (Picture Easy 3.1) It gives you the option to save photos as "large web page photos" and various other types, including BMP. These are perfect for computer viewing and e-mailing. It is a very easy program for beginners to learn to crop, save and print. You could probably find a copy cheap, or contact Kodak to find it.

11/30/2004 7:30:42 AM

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Photography Question 
Beverly Burke
BetterPhoto Member
bevburkephotography.com

member since: 4/18/2004
  4 .  Digital Image Sizing
I have been shooting in camera RAW and then saving images in Tiff. For the BetterPhoto classes, I have been resizing these images to the required 750x500 pixels. Does this then cause the image to lose information when I want to enlarge it and print at 5x7 or 8x10?

10/14/2004 10:55:45 AM

Lori Carpenter
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/31/2004
  Yes, this is causing you to lose a lot of information. Why don't you resize down and "save as"? Then go back to the original Tiff for the prints you're wanting to make. In fact, when I resize an image down and I want to keep it the same name I put the letter Z in front of it so I'll know that it is a small size and it's easy to find since it's at the bottom of the list.

10/14/2004 3:27:50 PM

Beverly Burke
BetterPhoto Member
bevburkephotography.com

member since: 4/18/2004
  Thanks, Lori. I will start doing the "save as", but I wish I knew that sooner. This is my 3rd course, so I guess everything I submitted for assignments here has been ruined for printing.

10/14/2004 8:36:38 PM

Lori Carpenter
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/31/2004
  Beverly,
Don't you still have the original Raw file? If so, you can go back and get your Tiff from that file ... may be a little extra work but well worth it.

10/14/2004 8:44:29 PM

Beverly Burke
BetterPhoto Member
bevburkephotography.com

member since: 4/18/2004
  Lori,
I do have the Raw files and I am planning to go back to all of those images and re-create the adjustments in PS and save them again as TIFFs. It will be a lot of extra work, but I'm glad I realized the problem now. Thanks so much for your responses.

10/15/2004 5:52:32 AM

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Photography Question 
Elizabeth Scully

member since: 10/10/2004
  5 .  How to Re-Size a Picture for Web Use?
I am having a terrible time taking a good picture and resizing it to a 2by2 or 2by3 picture for a Web page. Every time it gets to the Web size the picture is distorted and looks awful. What am I doing wrong? Often I crop the picture first. Would that make a difference? Thank you.

10/10/2004 9:15:21 AM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  It's probably due to not cropping to a proportion that is the same as the space for the Web site.

10/10/2004 9:16:42 PM

Kip T. Berger
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 2/20/2002
  In addition to Gregory's suggestion, you might also be re-sizing without constraining proportions. Plus, you should use bicubic interpolation when re-sizing.

10/11/2004 1:44:22 AM

Laura Berman
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 1/23/2004
  Elizabeth,
You don't say how you are resizing or in what program so I'll just plunge in and make assumptions:
1. Don't resize by physically pulling the "handles" at the corners of the photo, always use the "image size" pulldown in PhotoShop or Elements or the equivalent in another graphics program. In that window, make sure that "constrain proportions" is checked. That means that the photo will always retain the original proportions.
2. Another way of doing this - especially for web use - is to "save for Web" (again in PS/Elements). Again you will input a dimension and the computer will handle the rest. it is especially good for web use as it changes the colour profile to optimize for the Web.
3. And another way is to use "automate">"Fit image" (in PS, under File).
I hope this helps.

10/16/2004 7:49:24 AM

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Photography Question 
Wendell Woolford

member since: 9/3/2004
  6 .  Sunlight Blocking Subject on Screen
I can't see subject when taking pictures outside - too much sunlight.

9/3/2004 12:17:05 PM

Damian P. Gadal
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 4/22/2002
  Does the camera have a viewfinder?

9/3/2004 12:19:05 PM

Steven Chaitoff
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/22/2004
  The one unfortunate downfall of the LCD screen. Well, the easiest thing I can think of is just to cup it with your hand to keep some light away from it. Some people say take a finished toilet paper roll and place it over the screen and then look down into it, but plan to look really weird and awkward. There are companies that actually sell little covers to go over the screen to cut down on the light, but you're gonna have to pay.

9/3/2004 2:06:22 PM

Scott Pedersen

member since: 11/18/2001
  Here's a wild thought, but it would work: Try looking at it under a towel.

9/5/2004 5:10:15 AM

Alistair 

member since: 8/20/2002
  Hi Wendell. A problem that bugs us all I'm afaid however a year or so ago Digitial Preview (dpreview.com) had a posting giving instructions on how to make one. I have tried to find it again but sorry no luck. I have same problem with my Coolpix 885 but the back of the camera is too small to use a DIY hood so I always use the viewfinder.
Anyway you may be lucky and have one of
the readers here who will be able to guide you to the DIY posting or something similar.
All the best
Alistair

9/14/2004 7:30:02 AM

Scott Pedersen

member since: 11/18/2001
  Outdoo photographer has an article on hoods for them and they mentioned the towel idea too. But they looked at LCD hood and magnifiers. That can give you some ideas. Its the Oct.2004 issue page 88. Hope thats more helpful.

9/15/2004 8:37:40 PM

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Photography Question 
Barbara Taylor
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 3/23/2004
  7 .  Saving Too Many Times - Quality
I understand saving too many times hurts the quality of the photo. After I load to my PC, I do all of my manipulations of the photo, then save as another file. Then I keep my original. Then I archive both to an external hard drive. Later, if needed, I save to a CD to send out. Is that too much? Is the quality going bad at that point? I shoot and save as TIFFs.

4/17/2004 11:04:10 AM

Jon Close
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 5/18/2000
  "Lossy" formats, such as JPEG (.jpg) and GIF will compress and lose information with each save from an editing program. There is never any loss if you simply copy the file (using, for example, Windows Explorer or My Computer) without opening it. TIFF format is generally lossless, and there is no compression or lost information with successive saves or copying (though you won't be able to recover the original if you've made any edits and saved them). No file format is immune from faulty media (dirty/bad/corrupted disk or CF card) or faulty writing device.

4/18/2004 10:15:59 AM

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Photography Question 
Cindy Taft

member since: 11/29/2003
  8 .  Why Are My Nighttime Pics Always Fuzzy?
I can take a picture with my digital camera during the day or inside in a well lighted area and the picture is nice and sharp, but when I take a picture in a somewhat darker setting or outside at night even under a light the image is fuzzy. I have a Fuji A101, why am I having this trouble?

11/29/2003 7:56:58 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  I don't know anything about that particular camera but off hand it sounds like you're having problems with noise, which is like grain on film, at higher asa settings. Noise is also a problem with digital when a picture is slightly underexposed. Don't know what else to say without looking at a picture.

11/30/2003 2:32:22 PM

Jim Crosiar
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/6/2001
  If you are not using a tripod it could be camera shake, use a tripod and see if it makes a difference. I use a tripod or monopod as often as possible, even in daylight.

12/4/2003 1:29:48 AM

Scott Pedersen

member since: 11/18/2001
  Yep, same as above. on you LCD it should say procesing image. it takes some time to accoplish this at night. the camera must remain absulultly still unitl it is done.

12/4/2003 3:57:37 AM

Michael McCullough

member since: 6/11/2002
  Like the above answer,you need a tripod to shoot in loe light!!!

12/4/2003 10:03:41 AM

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Photography Question 
Kevin S. Lewis
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 4/10/2003
  9 .  Photoshop Images Appear Different Online?
Occasionally when I have done some extensive Photoshop work and posted the image to this website OR to my own personal website the images don't appear as they did on my monitor using Photoshop or ANY photo viewer. When viewed online, the images appear to lack the clarity or the quality I thought I had achieved. When viewed on my PC straight from the program they look fine - but when viewed 'online' they more readily show flaws or quality issues. I usually scan my images at 300 and leave it alone. When saving the image for online use I simply reduce the jpg quality to 5 or 6 (or even 7) in order to keep the file size down. Is this the problem or could my PC monitor be wearing rose coloured glasses?
PS - I have had some of my images printed at a lab and the quality is fine.

10/6/2003 9:32:19 AM

  Kevin:

You need to scan at the full resolution of your scanner, i.e. 4000 dpi, 2740 dpi, 8000 dpi, etc. Increase saturation to 15. After resizing to the desired size, use the "save for web" command in Photoshop. After you do that, it becomes a jpg and needs to be resharpened to .5 in the radius box. Jim Miotke's Photoshop for Photographers Course is highly recommended.

Good luck!

10/6/2003 10:29:05 AM

Kevin S. Lewis
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 4/10/2003
  Thanks Tony! I do believe you've shed some light. Now I have some experimenting to do.

Thanks again,

10/6/2003 11:51:51 AM

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Photography Question 
Vikki Grant

member since: 8/4/2003
  10 .  Why are My Pictures Blue?
I don't have any model information about my Sony digital camera, but wanted to ask if anyone might be able to provide some insight. When I attempt to take pictures outdoors (in sunlight, snow, etc.) my pictures develop with a blue overcast. When I use the same camera for indoor shots, they turn out fine. What would possibly cause this? Is this an indication that something mechanical might be wrong with the camera or with the user - me?

8/4/2003 12:35:41 PM

Judith A. Clark

member since: 9/14/2002
  Look in your maual under white balance. This should give you the answer you need. White balance is basicly the way your camera responds to the color temperature of the light conditions your shooting under.

8/4/2003 3:44:48 PM

Michael Kaplan

member since: 5/27/2003
  Judith is right. You probably either have the camera set for the wrong white balance. Even film has to be balanced for the conditions you are shooting in. If indoor WB is used outdoors, you get a bluish tint. If outdoor used indoors, you get yellow/orangey tint and under florescent bulbs you get a greenish tint.

Check your manual under white balance to know how to change it. Most people just leave it under Auto which usually gives a sufficient exposure but may still be off. Do not despair though as you can make changes for existing pictures in programs like Photoshop, Elements, Paint Shop Pro or many others that let you correct the colour of a photo. It will fix it to a more natural color.

The ideal of course is to either do a manual WB (if your camera allows it) or use any preset WB but if you do not want to bother or keep forgetting to change it, Auto WB will still usually be good enough.

8/12/2003 8:14:42 AM

Buddy Purugganan

member since: 8/31/2002
  Its best you use CORRECTION filters such as TIFFEN, HOLLYWOOD/FX or B+W FOR DETAILS check out www.adorama.com and also e-mail them about your problem----info@adorama.com they have a COMPLETE line of excellent filters for any video enthusiast.

8/25/2003 6:52:24 PM

Ms. Shan Canfield

member since: 3/9/2002
  One of the cool things about a digital camera is you really don't need correction filters if you are setting a custom white balance or using one of the presets appropriate for the condition, sunny, cloudy, ambient, etc. I've often created my own digital filters to produce a certain effect by creating a "faux" white balance, for example if I wanted my pics to have a funky greenish appearance in a daylight situation, I simply put a pink/magenta card in front of my lens when setting the white balance. The rule of complements applies when setting the white balance. Whatever color cast you "want" to introduce can be created by shooting at the oppisite color for the WB. The WB is attempting to compensate or neutralize the conditional color of the card by introducing its complementary color, so it basically produces a "filter" Just like in Photoshop if you have a "magenta" color cast in the mids & highlights, you can rid that cast by targeting the mids & highs using a Color Balance Adjustment layer and move the Magenta/Green slider bar more towards the green; to the point where it "neutralizes" the cast....or if you want to get crazy..move it all the way to green and the green takes over.

9/8/2003 7:04:41 AM

Michael McCullough

member since: 6/11/2002
  Outdoor light will often reflect blue under certain conditions eg.a snowscape under a bright blue sky,it is the reflected blue sky which causesz this.
,with a film camera I use a filter,to lesson this blue effect.
, with digital I really have know idea but I'm sure thre is a way to correct the image in camera!!!!

9/9/2003 9:24:34 AM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  you don't need a filter, it's your white balance setting. Look for something that have a little symbol of a sun, a light bulb, a cloud, a flourescent light looking thing, and a bent arrow which stands for flash. Or look for awb(auto white balance) Set that right you fix your problem.

11/16/2003 1:15:57 AM

Elissa Kadell-Haden
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/14/2003
  I always had color problems with my Sony Mavica FD-83 no matter what settings I had the camera at. I always had ro adjust with an editing program.
I finally gave up on the Sony and bought and HP 850... No more problems now.

11/16/2003 11:30:34 AM

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