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Photography QnA: Problems with Images

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Category: What's Wrong With My Photographic Technique? : Problems with Images

Have questions regarding resizing photos for websites? How about taking pictures without shadows? Check this section out to find some answers.

Page 7 : 61 -70 of 2287 questions

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Photography Question 
Anita Bower
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/3/2004
  61 .  can't access gallery
I can't access my gallery. I keep getting this message:
"This webpage has a redirect loop"
Can anyone help me?

2/13/2011 4:29:56 AM

  Email jay@betterphoto.com ,,He can help you.

2/13/2011 9:04:38 AM

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Photography Question 
Sheila Pittman
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 1/27/2007
  62 .  photoshop CS2 verses CS5
 
I just recently upgraded to CS5 I have been using CS2.
I could open a photo in cs2 and any where on that photo
I could take the Marquee took and set the style to Fixed size,
then I could hold down my Ctrl button and hit Backspace and
it would open up a hole in that layer (photo).
I could then take another photo select it,
copy it, and then paste it behind the opening I made with the marquee
tool on the first photo.....the pasted photo would show through and then I could
size it to fit the hole ...With CS5 when I use the marquee tool it will
cut out a hole but when I paste the other photo it is always on top of the layer.
I can put it underneath but it wont show threw , how do you get
it to paste underneath and show through. I have some examples in my gallery where I use this to make collages

2/9/2011 8:04:18 AM

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Photography Question 
Jeremy D. West
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Jeremy
Jeremy's Gallery

member since: 3/4/2010
  63 .  Question on muted colors when attaching photos
I asked this question earlier, but did not get a solution. Here's my problem...when I attach a photo to an email, and then send it via Google or Yahoo, the thumbnail retains all the bright colors. However, when I then view it or download it, the colors are now a bit off, and considerable muted.

When sending these photos to BetterPhoto.com, however, everything is fine. Other programs like MyFamily, however, have the same problem described above.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem is.....this just seemed to happen entirely out of the blue.

Thanks for all of your help...Jerry

2/1/2011 2:25:23 PM

Kevin Kopchynski

member since: 3/22/2006
  Jeremy,

This sounds like a color space problem. What solutions were suggested earlier?
If it suddenly started to be a problem perhaps a setting related to color management accidentally got changed in your processing?

Kevin

2/14/2011 3:59:23 PM

  Thanks for responding Kevin. Turns out I needed to set the color profile to sGRP, which inadvertently had gotten changed........Jerry

2/14/2011 5:11:03 PM

Kevin Kopchynski

member since: 3/22/2006
  Yup -that would have been it (well, sRGB perhaps?)

Glad you got it done.

2/14/2011 6:09:51 PM

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Photography Question 
Jeremy D. West
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Jeremy
Jeremy's Gallery

member since: 3/4/2010
  64 .  Color Confusion
Just recently, and basically just out of the blue, I've noticed that the colors of my photos in thumbnail view look great, colorful and vibrant. But, then when I click to view it in a larger size, and/or download it, the colors are not only different, but they are very muted and dull.

Does anyone know what I may have inadvertently done to cause this to happen?

thanks......Jerry

1/12/2011 1:21:14 PM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Can you give more details? Do you mean this is happening in your BP gallery? Or when you have the files loaded on your computer,and are going from thumbnail to full-size preview?

1/14/2011 5:51:28 AM

  Hi Chris......the photos brought into the BP gallery are fine.....it's when I attach them to an email via either GMail or Yahoo. They look great before, but then when I view them in the email and either a View or a Download, the colors are extremely muted.

I've tried changing everything to ProPhotoRGB instead of sRGB, but it doesn't seem to clear up the problem.

Thanks.....Jerry

1/14/2011 7:59:59 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  It sounds like Yahoo/Gmail is perhaps altering your image (most likely compressing it during the attachment process.) Have you checked to see if your email account (maybe Gmail would be service-oriented enough?) has a setting to specify no compression of attached images? My mom use to use Hotmail, and it not only automatically compressed every attached image file, it resized them first. So she'd send me a camera file uncropped, and I'd get this 1080-wide image file... Of course, in compression, you're bound to lose data, and see a different result; dramatically so, if the compression is heavy...

1/14/2011 7:23:18 PM

  I use G mail and it does not creat that problem, if the images are in sRGB color space.

In fact, G mail seems to retain overall quality quite well.

P.

1/27/2011 1:35:43 PM

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Photography Question 
Kathy Radford
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Kathy
Kathy's Gallery

member since: 1/2/2006
  65 .  Grouping photos into categories in my gallery
I forgot how to group my photos under different categories in my gallery. EX: all barn photos under the heading "Barns." I have so many photos in my gallery I need to put them into groups for easier viewing. Please help?

1/10/2011 2:34:15 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  I believe you do that under "Albums" from your Member Center, once you fully sign into BP. Looks like you already have several albums defined, when I visit your home page.

1/10/2011 1:12:47 PM

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Photography Question 
Steve Harvey
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 3/22/2010
  66 .  What You See May Not Be What You Get!
When I work on an image in Photoshop, it looks good to me on my computer screen and in my Basic Betterpholio, but when I print this image, it is low in contrast and dark. I have had people comment on my photo in my pholio and say it was good with soft sidelighting. So I assume it looks good on their screens too. But the problem is when I print it, it looks bad. I've only just started to upload images and find this very frustrating. Can anyone suggest some remedies?

1/4/2011 12:06:12 AM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  One of the simplest problems with the monitor and print not matching is people don't think about the image on the monitor is light by transmission, but the print is light by reflection.
The monitor image is always going to look more colorful because light comes from the monitor. A simple fix for that is to adjust the monitor brightness to more closely resemble the print, or get used to judging how light to make the image on the screen so that it matches when you print.
The more involved way is to use a calibration program so the monitor image and print will match.

1/4/2011 1:44:17 PM

Thomas C. Geyer
BetterPhoto Member
tomgeyerphotography.com

member since: 11/14/2008
  I have the very same problem. I've got a Huey color match program for my monitor but the prints still come out dark. I usually just add about a half stop of exposure to correct the print. It took several print-outs to get this value, and it would probably be different for every monitor/printer combination. -Tom

1/4/2011 6:38:44 PM

  Hi Steve,
Calibration is the key to making your prints match your monitor. I have read mixed reviews about Huey but I use Spyder2 Pro that I bought in 2006 (I am sure they have newer versions now) and it does the job.
When using a calibration tool, you must create a profile and then assign that profile to your printer & your monitor. If you are not doing this step, you are still using mixed (or default) profiles and they will not match.
I also keep the ambient lighting in my room the same and re-calibrate every 2-3 weeks or immediately if the lighting in the room changes.
Hope this helps.

1/4/2011 7:24:26 PM

Phillip A. Flusche
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/17/2003
  All of these are great answers. But of equal importance is to use the Editing Software to control the printing. When you print be sure to go into the preferences area of the printer and turn off the printer color control or auto setting. Use manual control and set it to off or no control. If you don't the printer controls the color and your print will not look like what you have on the monitor. It is also important to set the color space for the type of paper you are using. Papers have different tonal colors, some are bluer than others. These should be available from the paper provider. I use red River paper and they have settigns for all their paper as does Ilford.

1/18/2011 4:07:02 AM

Thea Menagh
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/9/2001
  As a seriously technically-challenged professional photographer & graphic designer, I've found 'my own way' of ensuring my prints are the same as what I see on my monitor. It DOES mean making a few, simple changes to my monitor depending on whether I upload my photos for lab-printing or to one of my other printers, but Keeps It Simple, Steve!! I now make adjustments to photos quickly from memory, but in the beginning, I ensured I had one print from each of my printers handy, and held it next to my monitor when making adjustments to the new photo. When brightness/contrast & colours were similar, I knew the print would be fine! Sounds too simple & unreliable, but always worked for me, while I had difficulties with calibration software ... which might get the settings right for one printer, but not another! Everything depends on the type of printing equipment, procedures, type of paper/card stock, coating, etc. Hope this helps ... Thea

1/18/2011 4:22:47 AM

Nancy 

member since: 10/24/2005
  Hi! Steve,
Thea is right in her last statement.
I use a pro lab and have my monitor calabrated close to the labs. I used Spyder2. I was able to talk to the lab tech. who walked me thru what he wanted. So the printing equipment, paper and his expert tech skills make my prints come out beautiful and bright.
Good printing,
Nancy, "The Picturelady"

2/4/2011 8:25:21 PM

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Photography Question 
Theresa L. Witt
Contact Theresa
Theresa's Gallery

member since: 10/12/2005
  67 .  Black has no detail in my photos
I shoot with a Nikon D300s and I am noticing that the color black has no detail. Is there a setting or technique I can use to prevent this? It is especially bad when there is very light or white areas and dark areas in the same photo.

Thanks.

12/27/2010 6:02:06 PM

  Try using the HDR technique by bracketing your exposure to recover the details in the dark portions of your image, this will come specially handy in contrasty (dark and bright areas within the frame) situations. Hope this helps.

UB.

12/27/2010 10:57:34 PM

Bob Cammarata
BetterPhoto Member
cammphoto.com

member since: 7/17/2003
 
 
  Glade Creek
Glade Creek

Without D-Lighting

 
  Glade Creek
Glade Creek

With Capture NX D-Lighting applied

 
 
Digital cameras (like slide films) have very narrow exposure latitudes.
Your highlight to shadow ratios will never be perfectly balanced in extreme conditions.
Fortunately for us, there is a way to get a little more detail in the shadow areas.
There is an "Active D-Lighting" setting on the D300 which can be utilized to balance harsh conditions at the scene. (Refer to pages 167-168 of the D-300 manual for more details.)

Capture NX Software, which should have been included with your D-300s, also has a "D-Lighting" feature which can balance the highlight to shadow ratio after the fact.
The attached examples show a typical high contrast scene with and without D-Lighting.

12/28/2010 3:25:01 AM

doug Nelson
DougNelsonPhoto.com

member since: 6/14/2001
  Look at the histogram for images in which the shadows look blocked up. Does your histogram "train wreck" to the left? (no tapering off, just an abrupt pile-up of darks) If so, reshoot it, giving a plus one exposure compensation. Try a plus 1.5 or a plus 2.

My Pentax DSLR has settings to tailor the jpg image to your liking, with choices over contrast, sharpening and saturation levels. Check to see if you have Contrast set too high.

Keep in mind, too, that some images DO exceed the contrast range of your digital sensor, and will have SOME blown whites and/or blocked shadows.

Finally, shoot RAW more often and use a good RAW processing software (PS Elements is a bargain at under $100) to adjust your capture to your liking.

12/28/2010 10:41:32 AM

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Photography Question 
karen moore

member since: 10/12/2003
  68 .  Downloading Photos from Camera
I have a Canon 7d and I am using an 8gb extreme Sandisk card. When I download my pictures to my computer, not all of them download. An error message asks if I want to try again, skip, or skip all errors. If I tell it to try again, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Then sometimes it gives me a blank or an error saying you can't view the image. Any ideas? I am losing some good pics. BTW, you can see them on the camera.

12/15/2010 9:12:56 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Are you shooting just Raw, just JPEG, or both on the same chip? Are you using a PC or a Mac? Are you using Canon's EOS software to transfer the files, or some other method?

12/15/2010 5:37:21 PM

karen moore

member since: 10/12/2003
  On this particular chip, I am shooting only JPEG. I am using a PC and downloading, I believ,e with Windows. After I sent this yesterday, I took the card out of my camera and used a card reader. All of my pictures transferred then so I definitely don't understand. Any suggestions?

12/16/2010 6:28:46 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  I would try using Canon's included software ("EOS Utility") - you can set it to launch whenever the camera is connected to the PC - it will open a window of all the images (thumbnails) on the chip. You can select them all, tell it to transfer to a specific directly, and it will move them all onto the PC. I'd try that, rather than just trying Windows functionality... But it seems if your chip reader is working to move them all, then Windows functionality should work to move them. Weird!

12/16/2010 7:07:28 AM

  Always use a card reader. They download faster and it is safer. If your camera's battery runs out of juice, you may lose all of the photos that were downloaded. After the card reader has finished its job, insure that the files are on your computer. When that is done, reformat the card in your camera and not by using the computer.
As Christopher said, "use the Canon software." If I am using three different camera models, I will have all three camera utilities in my computer. That is for insurance.

12/16/2010 2:11:48 PM

Dan W. Dooley
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/28/2005
  Karen, you have already received some good ideas so mine probably won't add anything new, but perhaps will just confirm those thoughts.

I presume that initially you were downloading by direct cable (USB) connection between the camera and the computer. That certainly should work fine as I've done it that way too a few times. Like the others though, I almost always use a card reader for the job.

I shoot only RAW so my files are large (Canon 40D) but unlike the others, I don't use special software to do the download. When the card is in a card reader, Windows (XP or Windows 7, depending on the comptuter I'm using at the time) sees it as simply another drive and I use Windows Explorer to copy the files from the card to a desired folder on the computer. That has always worked perfectly for me and because the connection is USB 2x the time to transfer files is not excessive.

The error is not related to whether you are using RAW or JPG but since the problem did not occur when you transfered directly from the card, either there is a problem with the transfer protocol within the camera itself, or the cable is bad. Since you were transfering with just Windows (Windows Explorer or My Computer) we can't blame the computer. Assuming you're not having other related problems with it. By trying Windows itself for the transfer, you're eliminating the possiblity that some software such as camera transfer software is at fault.

Dan,

1/4/2011 5:19:48 AM

  Hi Karen,
I use a MAC and Photoshop CS5 (any CS will work). Bridge has a photo downloader (Files>Get Photos from Camera) and the downloader allows you to select the folder, rename & number the images and attach your own info into the metadata. I also use a Sandisk firewire CF card reader and can download an 8gb card in about 6 minutes.
I have been using this method for about 4-5 years now and I dont have any problems with missing images, etc...
my .02,
Carlton

1/4/2011 6:42:46 AM

Bruce A. Dart

member since: 1/7/2007
  One very important consideration that some folks have not learned yet (preferably not the hard way). After you download images it is very important to re-format your card in camera for trhe next use. Other methods do NOT completely erase the data and it can build up to where either images get corrupted or the card is no longer usable -- kind of like erasing chalk board. You can most often still see what was written there before.

1/4/2011 6:43:33 AM

Don Stouder

member since: 12/9/2006
  Karen,

As you have received some excellent advice from earler posters. I can't add much.

However, I do have one somewhat related thought. You are using a sophisticated camera (I also use the 7D), which implies you are very serious about your photography.

You may want to consider using more sophisticated software to manage and work with the images you take.

As someone mentioned above, using Photoshop CS5 and its built-in Bridge is one approach. Adding Light Room 3 to that really enhances the capabilities and cost to the effort.

Although I have CS5, I have relied on Photoshop Elements for both editing and organizing my photo collection for many years now. Its about one-tenth the cost of the CS5/Light Room approach. Moreover, like those two there is a temendous amount of resources available online and elsewhere to help get the most out of the program.

My two cents.

Don S.

1/4/2011 9:35:53 AM

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Photography Question 
Lynn A. Page

member since: 3/26/2007
  69 .  Out of focus...
 
  Focusing issues #1
Focusing issues #1
© Lynn A. Page
Canon EOS 50D Digi...
 
  Focusing issue #2
Focusing issue #2
© Lynn A. Page
Canon EOS 50D Digi...
 
Okay, I know you've seen this question a million times but what am I doing wrong with my focusing?? ugh!

Working with a tripod and my camera in Manual, the first image was shot at F16 Shutter 1/20 in evaluate metering mode. Both subjects in front of the frame are slightly soft but the third subject in the middle is a little out of focus.

Second image which I would prefer over the first was shot at F3.5 and a shutter speed of 1/250, however focus is even more of an issue and I'm not sure what that is in the upper right hand corner of the frame.

Hopefully someone can offer a few suggestions. I thought my biggest challenge on this photo shoot was working with two teenage boys who definitely did not want to be there.

12/10/2010 1:07:46 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  Movement from the people will show up with 1/20th shutter speed. First picture looks like that is the problem. Shutter speed too slow.
Second picture I'm not seeing any point of focus. If a picture is out of focus, you can usually see some point that is in focus, in front of behind the subject. But judging by the pants leg of the first picture, I'm guessing you focused in front on both, and when you changed aperture, it made it look worse.
The second picture also looks too dark.
What kind of lens did you use, size and brand?

12/10/2010 2:55:00 PM

  This may sound like a dumb question but have you accidentally set the camera to manual focus? Did you get the green focus confirmation light in the viewfinder? Dis you use a cable release on the first image? We could use a little more info to help diagnose the problem. If you are manually focusing, do you have the diopter set correctly. If all this is good, then I suspect there is a problem with the lens. Does this happen with all lenses? More info needed.

12/10/2010 7:03:41 PM

  Hi Lynn,
I would shoot this at about f/9 or f/11 and keeping the shutter speed up at 1/200 or faster. I would also have the boy in back lean toward the 2 people in front to get his face closer to the same plane as that will help to keep all the faces in focus.
I just shot 50 family portraits and shot them at f/9, ISO200 and 1/200 using my Alien Bees and had no issues. I also had many shots with the kids sitting in the chairs with the parents standing behind but if the parents were tall, it made for a gap between the kids heads & theirs so I would have the parents rest their arms on the back of the chairs to bring their faces down & in closer which also makes the family appear more intimate. Works like a charm :)
Hope this helps,
Carlton

12/11/2010 1:07:27 AM

Lynn A. Page

member since: 3/26/2007
  Thank you for your responses.

Gregory, I was also wondering if perhaps the subject might have moved slightly. It was almost impossible to keep his attention on the task at hand. I agree the second picture was to dark looks like I also switched my ISO from 100 on the first photo to 200 on the second. Lens used was the Canon 70-200 2.8L usm.

Randy, that would definitely make sense that I could have mistakenly left the lens on manual focus if I hadn't made a check of that before I started. Many of the pictures turned out great it was only the ones where I had the 3 subjects displaced and not all in close position with each other. Yes, I did use a cable release.

Carlton, I will try your suggestions on my next photo shoot. I was hoping to create a blurred background with the beautiful fall colors by using a lower F-stop. Sounds like you have been pretty busy.
On another subject we had a bit of a close call on our trip to Seattle, someone broke into our rental car down by Pikes Market, we returned to find our camera equipment backpack (which we had locked in the trunk) laying open in the back seat. Much to our surprise and amazement they didn't take anything but a small pocket camera. What a beautiful part of the country you live in.

Thanks again everyone for your help and suggestions.

12/11/2010 3:19:07 PM

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Photography Question 
Mary L. Lemley

member since: 8/31/2004
  70 .  LCD screen makes photos too bright.
Have a new 22 inch LCD screen....It makes edited photos brighter after uploading to BP. Why??? CRT looked and worked much better. How can it look so much better in image editing program than on Bp,????

12/9/2010 5:07:51 PM

  I'm not sure if this will help in the situation you gave. I found out that I needed to darken my screen a little to match my printer. If this works for downloading to BP also good but, if not you at least gave it a shot. Try single photo download so you don't have to redo a bunch.

12/9/2010 6:32:47 PM

Mary L. Lemley

member since: 8/31/2004
  Thank you, Lynn, I will try that!!!

12/9/2010 7:16:51 PM

doug Nelson
DougNelsonPhoto.com

member since: 6/14/2001
  Read David Brooks' advice column in back issues of Shutterbug. He has gotten some variation of this question ten or so times in the last 18 months.

This is what the fuss is about with monitors that can be calibrated to known brightness and color accuracy standards. I just got the NEC P221W with its own calibration device. It ain't cheap, but it's a good one.

The Chinese flat screens that come with computers are mostly junk, but then my NEC was also made in China. MAYBE yours can be adjusted at least for brightness, I hope so.

12/13/2010 1:05:32 PM

Mary L. Lemley

member since: 8/31/2004
  Thank you Doug....I new when I bought the screen I was doing the wrong thing, in the back of my mind. I had forgotten about all the things I had read about 3 yrs. ago, on image editing monitors, I just never have seen an image look just like I want it, UNTIL it gets into Betterphoto.com. My crt never disappointed!!! May buy another...Still have my old one but it has been sitting in garage in the cold!!! Do you think it would still work....Or would be dangerous to try on the new Desktop I have???Thank you.
Mary LL.

12/13/2010 3:38:49 PM

doug Nelson
DougNelsonPhoto.com

member since: 6/14/2001
  I tried CRT's again after my Sony Trinitron-based one died, but the one I had was a Chinese cheapie CRT that could not be adjusted for brightness at all. If you got better results from your CRT, try it again, but remember that CRT's age as well. Work an image and post it to BP and see how it looks.

The NEC P221W for $600 comes with its own calibration device and software. At least one Dell and an HP go for $500, but you have to lay out another $150 for a calibration thingee.

Believe me, I'm cheap, but I was so frustrated with bad monitors that I decided to go for the better monitor. If you shoot to sell, a calibrated monitor is essential. Write it off as a business expense.

12/13/2010 4:41:24 PM

Mary L. Lemley

member since: 8/31/2004
  Yes mine can be adjusted for about everything, but You're right about the monitors. I dont even like the LCD TV's, but the Panasonic Plasma's are unbelievable!!! Anyway I sure thank you for your answering....I remember looking at the Nec online couple yrs. ago, but had forgotten all about it!!!! My crt is a Dell, but I'm thinking the cold probably killed it!!!!!!!! Have a good Holiday!!!!
MaryLL.

12/14/2010 6:13:24 PM

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