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Photography QnA: Problems with Images

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Category: What's Wrong With My Photographic Technique? : Problems with Images

Have questions regarding resizing photos for websites? How about taking pictures without shadows? Check this section out to find some answers.

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Photography Question 
Wayne L

member since: 11/14/2004
  91 .  CS2 won't open raw images
Have been using PS2 for a while and it worked fine on all of my images. Then I had a larger new HD installed and I reinstalled PS2 and now it won't open the same raw files.I get this message box " Could not complete the request because it is not the right kind of document"

The same files the same program made. MG RAW

Thanks Wayne

6/10/2010 6:08:29 PM

  Did you download all the available upgrades off of Adobes site? Not sure what would be available still. Did you by any chance upgrade your camera as well? My guess is that you don't have the right upgrade for your camera when you re-installed it from the disc.

6/16/2010 7:17:20 PM

  Yes, that is the problem.

However, Adobe stopped supporting CS2 a long time ago. So, there is NO available update that you can download at this time for CS2.

Any update that you will find now, will work only with *much* more recent versions of Photoshop.

I am not aware of any solution for your problem. Hopefully someone will have a suggestion.

If not, then you might need to use the software that came with your camera. OR buy the cheapest Adobe software that supports your camera's RAW format.

You don't say which camera it is; an older model I guess if PS2 was able to open its RAW files.

Photoshop Elements 7 may still be available and it supports all but the most recent cameras' RAW formats.

Make sure to buy the Mac or Windows version, depeding on the OS you use.

It's quite inexpensive now, since Elements 8 was released. $43 versus $85.

Cheers! Peter

6/30/2010 7:21:58 AM

Rainer and Simone Hoffmann

member since: 6/21/2006
  Hi Wayne,

one solution to your problem would be to download the free DNG-Converter from the Adobe Website and batch convert all your RAW files from the proprietary RAW format of the camera manufacturer to the DNG format. PS CS2 can then read and open the DNG files. The DNG files are RAW files as well, so nothing is lost.

If you don't like the idea of converting all your images, try this link:

It has all versions of Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) from 2.4 to the latest 6.2. For PS CS2 ACR 3.7 should be ok. If it doesn't work, try an earlier version.

Hope this helps.


9/9/2010 8:04:58 AM

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Photography Question 
Alan Garner

member since: 7/27/2006
  92 .  Uploading from Lightroom
I would really like to be able to upload to BetterPhoto from LR as easily as I can to Flickr. Is there a LR plug-in for BP? If not, any chance of one becoming available?

I rarely upload photos anymore because it is just to cumbersome and even worse unrealiable and slow (uploads fail as a result of timeouts because it is taking too long.

6/9/2010 12:59:29 PM

  I wholeheartedly agree and would like to be able to upload from my IPAD as well.

6/10/2010 10:44:43 PM

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Photography Question 
Merna L. Nobile
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Merna
Merna's Gallery

member since: 12/31/2003
  93 .  Club site will not delete photos, give an error
When I try to delete images from our Club site, "What Else You Got" all I get is an error page. I have been doing this for several years, and have never had a problem before. Thank you for your help. Merna Nobile

5/10/2010 7:11:10 AM

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Photography Question 
Denny E. Barnes
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Denny
Denny's Gallery

member since: 1/19/2008
  94 .  Distortions in uploaded photos
  St. Boniface Church, OR
St. Boniface Church, OR
© Denny E. Barnes
Nikon D300 Digital...
I give up!! This photo looks good on my end but when up-loaded it has distortions or cross lines. I shoot in raw and normally convert to JPEG for up-loading but I have tried all the different formats, sizes and resolutions with the same results. Any suggestions or do I just live with it...

5/9/2010 10:29:42 AM

  Maybe not. Same thing happened to me when I forgot to convert from 16 bits to 8 bits, but I convert from PSD to TIFF for uploading, so the answer may not work for you. I hope it's that simple!

5/9/2010 11:06:54 AM

Thank you Kay
I think I've tried them all. The first one was a JPEG but this one is a TIFF.
8 bit, 800 long side, 72 pix

5/9/2010 12:27:45 PM

  This TIFF one does looks a lot better. Lost some of the sharpness of the original but a least the distortion is gone. Thanks again, Kay!!

5/9/2010 12:41:18 PM

  Great! The last step I do before saving in TIFF for upload is to resharpen at USM 10/40/0. I don't remember where I got the recipe, but it works for me. Might solve your sharpening issues ...

5/9/2010 5:51:25 PM

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Photography Question 
Pamela Koch
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Pamela
Pamela's Gallery

member since: 12/21/2006
  95 .  Small image size on uploaded Photos from Canon50D
I uploaded some photos from my daughter's wedding this past weekend and the image size that is displayed on BetterPhoto is smaller than usual. My camera is a Canon 50D and I have uploaded photos before without this issue. Have I changed a setting on the camera? How can I repair this problem? Thanks for any help you can offer. The camera is new to me and I am still in the learning stages of using it.
Thanks again.
Pamela Koch

4/28/2010 1:46:43 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 11/11/2003
  Check the image size of the picture you uploaded and check the image size of what your camera is set to.

4/28/2010 2:49:27 PM

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Photography Question 
Rett Dean
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 2/18/2010
  96 .  Loss of Detail in washed out sky
  washed out Thunderbirds
washed out Thunderbirds
200mm F/4, ISO 100, Taken mid day with heavy overcast.
© Rett Dean
Nikon D80 Digital ...
I just got back from shooting at an air show in Florida. Had great days except for the last day. This particular day was the main day, the US Air Force Thunderbirds were to perform. Well the shy turned gray and the shots I got all day long were washed out. The worst part is the planes are white and with the cloudy background the shots are somewhat dull. I shot them in RAW and will do my best to try and find some good ones. I was hoping I could solicited some ideas on how to compensate for this the next time. ALl ideas welcome. Thanks. RD

4/18/2010 5:35:24 PM

Hello Rett,
There are a lot of editing techniques to choose from such as selecting the sky and increasing contrast/saturation or using plug in filters such as Topaz Adjust. Layers in Photoshop is a great tool for these type of edits.
You did not mention you editing software but if you use Photoshop, there are several classes available here that can help you with these edits. I have taken a few of them with Jim Zuckerman & Lewis Kemper and highly recommend them.
I dont know that you can compensate very much for the "next time" as you have to either expose for the planes or for the background sky - so unless you can use HDR (which doesn't seem to be an option for flying aircraft) you have to use the tools we have in post processing. You can do a trick I call the "psuedo HDR" which is to take the original raw image and change the exposure to a stop under-exposed and create 3 images exposed -1, 0, +1 and I might even include a 4th underexposed sky as -2 to just make the sky a little more dark. You can then either combine the images using HDR or take the darker sky image and paste it into the original image creating a layer and using an empty layer mask & the brush tool to brush away the original sky letting the darker layered sky to replace it. Lewis Kemper teaches these layer techniques in his Photoshop "Toolbox" classes.
I get lots of gray days living in the Pacific Northwest which makes for nice diffused lighting on the subjects but it is often a bland background.
Here is a sample image I edited with Topaz Ajust4 that really made those invisible clouds re-appear. This was a one-click edit selecting a new Topaz Adjust4 edit called "Dark-Ghostly".
Hope this helps,

4/19/2010 4:07:06 PM

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Photography Question 
Beth E. De Simon

member since: 5/26/2008
  97 .  Indoor Photos Too Dark
I have a Canon 30D with a 17-85 EFS Lens only. All photos I take inside church or indoor sports come out too dark and blurry even at ISO 1600. Are there any settings that would capture the inside church/sports images without me having to purchase a new lens? If not, which lens would you recommend and why?

3/22/2010 8:50:05 AM

  It is possible that the camera is including bright areas (e.g., windows) in its exposure calculation. You can try excluding those areas from what the viewfinder sees when you meter the shot, then recompose. Also, the exposure setting in the camera (i.e., spot, evaluative, center weighted) can affect the overall exposure. Evaluative, for example, tends to underexpose an image if there is a bright source somewhere in the composition. If none of this helps, you can upload an example for further comment.

3/22/2010 9:10:12 AM

Ken Smith
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 6/11/2005
  You could try moving the Exposure Compensation dial more positive; e.g., +2 or +3. Then check the histogram to see if the "mountain" is moving more to the right...

3/22/2010 11:25:00 AM

  Try capturing images on a tripod, which will not only stabilize the camera, but allow you the time to channelize your efforts in focusing and metering, locking the focus, and then, recomposing.

3/23/2010 6:46:03 AM

Stanley C. Sims

member since: 1/28/2001
  First off, are you using a tripod? If not, you should. I have started taking photos inside a church recently, as I am building up my files for HDR. I shoot at ISO 100/200 @ F16-22 with a 17-28mm lens. At these F-Stop, the exposures are very long. I use a remote or cable release to do this. My exposures run anywhere from 10sec. to 90sec. To do this, you have to shoot in B mode. Most cameras omly allow a maxium of 30 second exposures in any other mode. Check your histogram often, and if need be, keep adding time until it looks okay. Hope this helps.

3/23/2010 1:26:52 PM


If your indoor church shots are strictly for recording the church itself you should follow the advice of Stanley S. If you are shooting people inside the church a new lens is necessary and for indoor sports a new lens is definitely necessary. You are forgetting that when the lens is extended beyond the 17mm mark the maximum f stop becomes smaller. At about 60mm it is down to f5.6.

Depending on where you are shooting indoor sports, baseline or the nose bleed seats, will determine which lens you should use. If you are at the baseline or first row the Canon f1.8 lens would help you immensley. It would also be better for taking photos of people inside the church. If in the nosebleed seats you will need a longer lens, preferably a zoom, in the 70-200mm f2.8 range. Your shutterspeed should stay at 1/250" or faster. High ISO is needed.


3/23/2010 2:52:13 PM

Ken B.

member since: 7/14/2004
  Hi Beth, I also have the 30D and EF-S 17-85 combo. I have the exact same problem. Here's how I approach it. First, go to the custom function page and enable ISO expansion (CFn 8 = 1). This will let you use ISO 3200 - it will show up as H in the LCD window when you change ISO. Second, get a 430EX or 580EX. I use the 580EX and would be lost without it. I know some places don't allow flash but I use it if I can (I use a bounce card to keep the harsh shadows minimized). Then, shoot in manual (M) mode (or Av or Tv). If you shoot in P or Auto, the camera defaults to too fast of a shutter speed when you use flash. Set the shutter speed slow enough that you can get some of the ambient light to balance the flash. I can get good shots down to 1/20 or so - the IS works great on this lense. You can use second curtain sync with low shutter speeds and flash to get some neat effects with moving people. These settings work pretty well for most shots except for sports in a dark gym. I have been lucky that I could use flash for most of the sports my kids were in. After the pictures are taken, the next step is to set the lighting levels with whatever viewing tool you use. I have good results from Picasa and Photoshop Elements. Usually, I just use Picasa and use the fill light tool.
Hope this helps. Keep practicing different combinations. I have been trying for years now to get "good" shots in low light with slow lenses. I would love a faster lense, but it's not in the budget yet. Ken

3/26/2010 8:46:54 AM

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Photography Question 
Sandra K. Burns

member since: 12/16/2009
  98 .  Rotating images after drag/drop
When I uploaded my images my instructions (pg. 2) says I would have the option to rotate my images. I must be blind--I couldn't find it. How do I rotate the images, if necessary?

1/15/2010 1:15:03 PM

  Hi, Sandra,

This is working its way down the page without any answers. I think it may be because the question is a little confusing.

With what are you uploading images and where to? Also, which instructions are you referring to?

(I thought you might be referring to BP Gallery uploads but this should be a non-issue. If you do any post-production of your images they should end up with the correct orientation out of your image editing app.)

1/16/2010 1:30:00 PM

  Hi Sandra,
Try rotating the images before posting them on the page.
I rotate my images right away after downloading my CF card. I use Adobe Bridge/CS3 and with a MAC using Bridge the keyboard shortcut to rotate left (counter-clock) is Command [ and for rotating to the right (clockwise) is Command ]
Its probably "Control [" on a PC.
I can select all the images that I want to rotate and then use the Control [ - this will rotate an entire folder at once.
Hope this helps,

1/17/2010 12:09:42 AM

  Hey, Carlton,

Quick question (that might also help Sandra troubleshoot her problem):

Do you have auto-rotate 'off' in your Canon(s)? The reason I ask is that I have mine set to auto-rotate 'on' and I never have to rotate images when I import them into LR or CS4.

Don't know what type of camera Sandra has, but I would think this may be a common setting in DSLRs.



1/17/2010 1:00:12 AM

  Thanks RK,
Great point.
I do have auto-rotate ON in my 40D but my raw files from my 1Ds are not. I dont even see the rotate option in the menu so I will need to look in the manual to see if I can set this option.

1/17/2010 2:07:27 AM

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Photography Question 
Cynthia M. Yarde-Kiernan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/28/2009
  99 .  How would I fix this?
  Shoe Bandit
Shoe Bandit
Taken with kodak easy share C643
© Cynthia M. Yarde-Kiernan
Miscellaneous Does...
The above image was shot before I knew what I was doing with my is one of my favorite memories...can someone suggest some steps to improve this in photoshop? Especially removing the red-eye, which I have not quite figured out how to eliminate in older photos.

Thank you!!!

1/7/2010 9:29:01 AM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 11/11/2003
  Clone tool/rubber stamp tool.
It's easy. Activate the clone tool, select an area as your source to clone by holding down the alt button and left click with the mouse. Using a brush size slightly feathered on the edges and not using it at 100% opacity so you can gradually darken it I find makes it come out more natural looking.
The dark background of the floor would be a good clone source.

1/7/2010 2:36:08 PM

Cynthia M. Yarde-Kiernan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/28/2009
  Thank you, I am going to give this a try!

1/7/2010 8:03:50 PM

Dennis Flanagan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/31/2005
  You should crop it in tight on the dog. Nothing behind the dog adds to the photo so eliminate it.

1/7/2010 8:29:59 PM

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Photography Question 
Usman Bajwa
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Usman
Usman's Gallery

member since: 4/11/2006
  100 .  You Critique needed
This is to solicit Critique on one of my images that did not get an EP last month.

Would really like to know what is wrong here. I can take it and will really appreciate your honest criticism!



12/2/2009 5:28:42 AM

  Usman - It's a visually beautiful image. I tried hard to find things to nitpick. The only possibilities that come to mind are...

1] There might be too much in it. I'd crop it from the left just to where the first heavier pillar begins (eliminate the street lights on that side.)

2] Crop from the right side so that only four people show (group of 3 and single figure.)

3] To keep the ratio aspect of your original, then crop some from the bottom, and the rest from the top. You won't lose much of either of these.

What this cropping might accomplish is to narrow the scope of the scene, make the horizon seem more level, lessen the impact of those strong streaks of orange light to the right, and finally to get rid of that uneven tree.

This is a powerful sunset especially in relationship to the Shakar Parian. Imo, panoramic look to the original weakened the true "star of the show."

Hopefully, others will chime in with their opinions. Personally, I'd reenter this one (or the revised edition) often!

12/2/2009 1:27:13 PM

Bob Cammarata
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 7/17/2003
  I like the overall composition and color tone of the sunset but the people in the foreground are a distraction. (In my opinion, silhouettes should be primary points of interest, not incidental elements.)

Also, in reading your caption, I can also offer a valuable piece of advice someone once taught me...
"Unless someone asks, don't try to explain why or how you took a photo. Just throw it up there and let it stand on its own merit. Your audience will get the message if the photo is good enough".

12/2/2009 1:55:22 PM

Dennis Flanagan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/31/2005
  The colors are very rich and it's a nice location but overall, this isn't much more than a snapshot. I don't see a clear subject matter for my eye to gravitate to or follow through the picture. Does that mean it's not an EP??? Not at all. If you think it's worthy, enter it again.

12/2/2009 7:30:57 PM

  Thank you Kathy, Bob and Dennis for your insightful feedback. It really helped me understand some of the things that I should have done in the first place.

Its always great to get honest feedback from seasoned professionals.

Thanks again!


12/2/2009 8:06:56 PM

  Usman - never in my wildest dreams would I expect someone to group me with BobC as a professional! lollllllllll Judging from Dennis' Gallery (love the Invisible Man series!), he belongs up there, too. I am simply an enthusiastic (obsessive?) hobbyist, who is struggling to learn.

However, thank you for the lovely compliment.

12/2/2009 8:47:28 PM

  Shall resubmit after some tweaking with the original!

12/3/2009 1:55:33 AM

Clayton T. Williams
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/16/2006
  I totally agree with everyone on here. The colors are great it just needs some minor tweaking.

This is a question for you. You have GREAT work and lighting. What lighting setup do you have?


12/3/2009 10:46:30 PM

Dennis Flanagan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/31/2005
  In studio and some location shoots I use a Calumet Travelite 2250ws three head portrait kit. I also own a number of backgrounds from Backdrop Outlet. If I have to use on camera flash, I use a flash extender and a Nikon SB-900 Speedlight. If needed I also use a 36in reflector to either block unwanted light or as a fill reflector.

12/4/2009 1:32:47 PM

Ken De Pree
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 5/15/2008
  There is a lot to like about this photo, but it is not a show stopper. I think the photo should have been taken closer to the monument, making it larger and the center of focus. As it stands, the build is too small and there are too many distractions. Since you can only post an 800x600 image, you probably have enough to work with. Cut from the right side and from the concrete in front of the monument. The concrete is ugly and adds nothing to the photo. Cut out as much of it as you can. Make the building and beautiful sky stand out.

12/10/2009 1:33:57 PM

Ken De Pree
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 5/15/2008
To balance what needs to be cut from the right, including that miserable tree part, you will also have to cut from the sky since there is not enough concrete. But you have lots of sky so you can easily spare some.

12/10/2009 1:40:13 PM

  Thanks Ken for your observations which are very helpful.

12/10/2009 8:03:50 PM

Meghan Gonski

member since: 9/7/2007

Not everyone can get an EP. I have seen photos that definetly deserve an EP and didn't get one. Sometimes it's just entered at the wrong time. Othertimes it has to do with the photo, it's not at it's best.
For your photo, I would suggest cropping both sides of the photo to eliminate the distracting tree and short walking-light. Eliminating the tree with focus the eye on the building and sunset. You could try intensifying the colors in editing program also. Lastly, try entering it again. Some photos do well a second time around.
Good luck

12/28/2009 3:29:37 AM

  Thanks Meghan for your inputs and time!


12/29/2009 6:17:14 AM

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