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Category: All About Photography : Digital Photographic Discussions - Imaging Basics : Software Techniques, Tips, & Tricks

Want to learn about overexposing vs underexposing digital images? Maybe you have questions about touching up digital images in PhotoShop. Check these discussions out for all of your software technique questions.

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Photography Question 
Amanda  M. Freese
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/18/2007
  1 .  Isolated Color Effects
How do you do the black and white photos with the isolated eye color creative effects? Is that Corel Painter? Or is it something that can be done in Photoshop CS3? I'm interested to know ;)

11/18/2008 9:12:05 PM

Robert E. Gaughan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/18/2005
  Hello Amanda,
I do that kind of thing in CS3. What I do is open the image I want to change, and then copy that layer - keeping the copied layer highlighted. Then go to IMAGE> Adjustments> desaturate. Next, click on the History Brush, and color the parts you want colored. Flatten the layers. I have an example in my gallery of my cat Whiskers. Good luck!
Robert

11/19/2008 12:08:54 AM

Amanda  M. Freese
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/18/2007
  Thank you , I'll start experimenting now. .

11/19/2008 4:55:30 AM

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Photography Question 
Tara R. Swartzendruber

member since: 3/28/2007
  2 .  How to Make Eyes Brighter
Is there a way to make eyes brighter/more blue in a photo? I have PSE6. Thanks!

10/15/2008 3:31:18 PM

Pete H
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/9/2005
  Pretty easy fix Tara.
"Select" eyes. "Feather" about 3.
"Levels" up in RGB mode master.. then select "blue" from drop down box. Pull right side slider to the left.
That's one way, and by far the easiest.

10/16/2008 11:48:15 AM

  One of the oddball solutions I came up with for this is as follows:

1. create a new layer at the top of the stack.
2. paint with white over the eyes (yes, the whole thing).
3. blur so the edges get nice and soft.
4. change the layer mode to overlay.
5. lower the opacity till it looks pleasing.

This will usually whiten whites, and can brighten colors, but it depends on the exposure. It also serves to pull up sunken eyes a bit. You'll be surprised how rough you can be with the application, but take care not to blow out detail with too much opacity.

10/16/2008 5:32:09 PM

Tara R. Swartzendruber

member since: 3/28/2007
  Thanks to both of you. I've already tried Pete's way and it worked great. I will try what you wrote Richard, as well. It's good to have options for different situations!!

10/16/2008 5:43:40 PM

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Photography Question 
Cheryl K. Satterly
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/22/2005
  3 .  Selective Color in B&W Photo
I've seen pictures that are in black and white, but something in the photo is in color. What is an easy software to do this in for a beginner? Thanks.

9/19/2008 7:38:25 PM

W. 

member since: 9/25/2006
 
Try typing "selective colouring" in the search box, and hitting Enter, Cheryl.

9/19/2008 7:44:05 PM

  I use Photoshop Elements and do this successfully using layers. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but here is my method:
Create an adjustment layer (in the "Layers" menu). Choose "hue/saturation". Next desaturate the "master" on that layer. The next step is to paint over the areas you want to retain color with the paintbrush tool, using black as the color. That will remove the layer effect from those areas, returning them to their original color. Easy...

9/29/2008 1:55:38 PM

W. 

member since: 9/25/2006
 
 
  The world is your oyster
The world is your oyster
 
 
A 'History Brush' is easier:

1) desaturate the image to B/W
2) choose "History Brush" and paint where you want the color back in.
I know $600 CS3 Photoshop has it. And $85 Photoshop Elements. Fellow board members want to suggest others?
Have fun!

9/29/2008 10:30:18 PM

  Will, I see your point, but I'm not sure that is 'easier' to work with the History brush. Dorean's solution seems more flexible as you can make adjustments because it is in layers and uses masks. Certainly the latter two are more advanced concepts, but I think they are more core (and I teach some basics with them in the Photoshop 101 class I teach here at BP.
In your method, how do you make adjustments if your brush goes off? It isn't obvious to most, I think, who are familiar with the tool (you have to switch states, of course). You also assume people know how to use the History Brush (e.g., that selecting a prior state is obvious), perhaps that there are no other layers in the image (i.e., that the image is flattened), that they know which method to use to desaturate (e.g., desaturating as Dorean describes will not work for your solution), and perhaps assume they won't change their mind later (layers allows mind changing, History Brush will become obsolete after 20 steps or so unless you use snapshots...and there another concept to learn). Dorean's solution can work on a multi-layer image and requires tools common to both Elements 7 and Photoshop. As a beginner, Cheryl, you will likely do fine with Elements.
Understanding both ideas is something I recommend, but delving into the History brush as a first tool for a new user may not be easiest.
I am posting a third variation ... not because it is outright easier, but because conceptually it may make more sense to a new user as to what is going on:

1. Open the image and save by another name (effectively makes sure you are working on a duplicate of the original).
2. Set the foreground color to 50% gray. Just click the foreground color swatch in the toolbar, and set HSB values to H:0, S:0, B:50.
3. Create a new layer (Layer>New>Layer), and fill with the foreground color (created in the previous step) Edit>Fill, and choose Foreground as the Source. The image will turn gray.
4. Set the layer mode to Color. To do this open the Layers palette (Window>Layers), click Normal and choose Color from the list that pops up. The image will turn grayscale because you are applying gray as a color to the whole image. Now you are all set to make the effect happen by letting the color come through the gray.
5. Remove gray over the area where you want the color to come through. To do this, choose the Eraser tool (press E) and erase the areas of gray in your layer where you want color to come through. If you make a mistake, switch to the Brush tool (press B) and paint the gray back in.

The advantage here: no masking. This can work on multiple layers, requires very simple concepts, simple shortcuts, and simple tools. Menus may be somewhat different in different versions of Photoshop and Elements.
I hope that helps!
Richard Lynch

9/30/2008 5:49:33 AM

  Thanks for the detailed explanation Richard! I'm excited to have a new method to try!

10/1/2008 6:03:12 AM

Janella  Nunan
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 7/28/2005
  Cheryl, this may be a dirty word to some people but picnik.com is great for beginners! It does all the work for you! :)

10/7/2008 5:55:06 AM

Cheryl K. Satterly
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 9/22/2005
  Thank you all. I will try these ideas out.

10/7/2008 6:04:02 AM

  Janella,
While Picnik looks like it might be some fun, one warning about automated tools: they can't see your image and they don't know what you are thinking or envisioning. Because they can't see, they will not necessarily make corrections that are visually pleasing in all cases...and depending in the calculation, they may not be doing your image any favors. I wrote a blog about "magic tools" about a year ago that fills out th idea I am trying to suggest briefly here: Magic Tools

I may just not be familiar enough with the tool, but this also does not seem to be able to accomplish the effect the original post was looking for except in a very rudimentary way (the Focal B&W effect). There is little control over the shape of the effect (you just get a round color area that you can move and/or blur). I think you'd see that other methods described here are not a lot of work -- just a few short steps -- and they provide a lot more control. Though they do require having Photoshop or Elements.

I hope that helps!

Richard Lynch

10/7/2008 6:16:13 AM

Charlie  

member since: 2/22/2005
  Cheryl, try a program called "Color Select" - it can be downloaded at "magicsplash.com" - currently priced at $14.99 - I've used it a few times with success. Easy to download and easy to use.

Charlie

10/7/2008 7:05:24 PM

Sharon M. Harding

member since: 9/12/2005
  I use PS elements as well. However, I use a very easy method. I duplicate the layer (usually along the right hand side of the screen), make that duplicate black and white by selecting "remove color" from the menu option, then I select the eraser and erase the areas that I want to remain color. It's very easy to do this way and it looks great!

10/8/2008 3:34:38 AM

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Photography Question 
Bernard 

member since: 3/25/2005
  4 .  Sharpening Workflow
Hello, friends:
I have just finished editing a banquet, and the photos are still in the psd format. But I plan on converting the copies to be sent to JPEG. I will be delivering the photos on a disk, and a few are to be printed then delivered. Should I sharpen the photos after or before converting to JPEG. Thanks to all!

8/24/2008 12:30:25 PM

  Sharpening should be assessed with all the care that you apply any other image correction. That is, don't assume an image needs sharpening just because it is in a 'group'. If you have changed lenses, if you have changed subject and focal length, etc., the need for sharpening may be very different and even UNDESIRABLE in some cases.

Also, do you need to convert to JPEG? It is a lossy format which will degrade your images (maybe slightly depending on your settings, but you do not state what those are).

We all work very hard to get image quality...and spend lots of time and money doing it. it is best to try to keep as much quality as possible by knowing what to do definitively with those images.

Converting to JPEG is not the best choice in a workflow if it can be avoided.

8/24/2008 4:53:44 PM

Bernard 

member since: 3/25/2005
  Richard,
In response to the answer you gave above, I decided to research the photo editing classes you offer, and the feedback from various sources is very positive. My accumulated photo editing experience is approx. 3 months. At what level class do you recommend I sign up for.
Thanks again!

8/25/2008 2:09:07 PM

  Bernard,
When I was learning image editing, there were no books or resources, and even the user guides were a bit scant. Really it took me several years of trial and error to approach what I think currently is 'intermediate'. If you've been plodding around and really aren't sure of what you are doing in the program, I'd start with PS101, which goes into a lot of things that are essential, and not totally beginning (initial color management setup; how to handle resolution, saving and storing images; what tools to use (and necessarily those to avoid); and defining a standard workflow for color correction and repair). Many people who take my intermediate and advanced courses find themselves going back and taking the 101 course, so I recommend it for almost anyone. However, if you feel pretty situated in the program, and you are in control of resolution, color management, the interface, and have a basic workflow, you might be ready for Correct & Enhance.

If I can answer additional questions, please let me know.

8/26/2008 9:58:58 AM

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Photography Question 
Heather 
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/9/2007
  5 .  Need Help with Image Editing!
My brother wants me to combine two or 3 photos into one photo, but I'm not sure which photo editing software is capable of doing that! Any suggestions? And it will need to be able to add text in the photo! Thanks. I need this info ASAP! :)

7/24/2008 8:24:46 AM

  You can procure a copy of Photoshop Elements, a light version of Photoshop, or my favorite: Corel Paint Shop Pro. Under $100. You can go to Corel’s Web site and download a free trial copy.

7/24/2008 9:25:29 AM

  Hi Heather!
I am new to the whole photo editing thing and have been using Photoshop Elements 6. You can download a free trial at www.adobe.com. Hope that helps!! Good luck!!!

7/24/2008 11:24:41 AM

W. 

member since: 9/25/2006
 
What do you mean "combine two or 3 photos in to one photo"? You want to make a mosaic? A panorama? A poster? What?
The target determines the method.

7/24/2008 11:30:30 AM

  Elements has a pretty good tool for that sort of thing.

7/24/2008 11:45:48 AM

Pete H
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 8/9/2005
  Heather,
Any editing program that uses "layers" will work. You will have to learn "layers", but it is not difficult. Think of it like painting: You paint something on your canvas. Then you lay a clear piece of plastic over it and paint on the plastic ... place another clear plastic piece over that. You now have two "layers" that can be removed, added to, erased, rearranged even ... etc. Though this is a very simplistic description, it is basically how they work.
Layers are nothing more than what the word describes.

7/24/2008 10:01:31 PM

Christine A.
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/2/2007
  Hi Heather,
I use Gimp, a free software that is supposed to be similar to Photoshop. That is what I used to create this collage:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=4911069&catID=&style=&rowNumber=19&memberID=226892

Here is the download link. :)
http://www.gimp.org/downloads/
Good luck!

7/29/2008 5:57:22 AM

W. 

member since: 9/25/2006
 
Heather is not very interested anymore.

7/29/2008 6:54:54 AM

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Photography Question 
Eloise Gregory
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Eloise
Eloise's Gallery

member since: 5/14/2007
  6 .  Noise Reduction
I have been using Noiseware for removing noise, but have run into a problem when using it on ocean scenes. It is great for the sky, but I am finding it removes too much of the ripples in the water and makes it look like its smudged when it is printed. I've playing with the settings, but can not seem to hit on the right combinations. Can anyone help me with this?? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated and attempted.

5/3/2008 6:30:45 AM

  Eloise,
Noise reduction is really 'detail reduction'. Blur is how the plugins work - some have better or worse masking.
The best way to reduce noise is likely manually. I know people hate to hear that because it is so convenient to depend on a plugin to think for you, but really these things are just calculations and can't see the image. Only you know what you want.
My suggestion: skip the plugins and learn to use Photoshop (or Elements) to its capacity. Enhance your understanding of masking and layers.
If you insist on using plugins, try applying the plugin to a masked layer and paint in the noise reduction.
I hope that helps!

5/3/2008 7:14:53 AM

  Another approach is to select areas to be 'noise reduced' and then apply the filter.

For example, a recent photo I worked for a friend on had very high noise in flower petals, so I carefully selected (with a med feathering) the inner-petal areas and applied agressive noise reduction I then inverted the selection to select the edges & center areas of the flowers and applied USM.

Also, PaintShopPro has far more noise reduction options: Camera noise removal which builds a profile for your camera, edge preserving smooth which helps keep edge detail while smoothing flatter surfaces, texture preserving smooth which would probably be best for the water noise you mention and Medium, which, as Richard mentioned, is basically a blurring approach.

I bought PaintShopPro9 for $25 on ebay. It also has a number of other features I like better than or not available in Elements (4). You might want to consider getting it too (v8 or v9 are, IMO, best, since I don't like what Corel did to it in vers X & up)

Have fun!
dvc

5/6/2008 10:18:14 AM

  Thank you both for the replies. I'll be trying both this weekend.

5/20/2008 5:59:44 PM

Oliver Anderson
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 11/16/2004
  I shoot races, Nascar & Drifting at night and obviously noise can't be avoided. If you buy a good plugin they do have the ability to easily direct where and how much you remove. Photoshop does this but I don't feel the noise reduction software is as user friendly or refined as some of the plugins. I use Noise Ninja

5/20/2008 9:02:53 PM

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Photography Question 
Thomas E. Dillon
Contact Thomas
Thomas's Gallery

member since: 5/19/2005
  7 .  Merging Photos in Photoshop Elements
Say I take two tripod shots of the same landscape, exposing one for shadows and the other for sky, and then create a PSE layer for each and flatten/merge them. Will I end up with an image that shows the proper exposure for both?

3/26/2008 8:25:20 AM

  Thomas,
You are going to have to work with blending or masking in some form to get the result you want. Just putting one layer over the other doesn't tell the program what you want to do. I am working on a course that gets into this type of thing, and I do explore it to some extent in my Layers course (Leveraging Layers: Photoshop's Most Powerful Tool), though you may need to build into that as it is an advanced course via my other courses (Richard Lynch's Photoshop courses).

3/26/2008 8:50:49 AM

  Richard, I don't have sample issues. Unfortunately, I haven't tried this yet, and haven't even taken my source photos. Thank you for your response.
Tom

3/26/2008 9:04:57 AM

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Photography Question 
Carin Griffith

member since: 6/29/2006
  8 .  How to Fix Red Eye in Photoshop
 
I am having problems fixing red eye on pictures of my son! Please help! (I know that the ideal situation would be to avoid getting any red-eye in my photos in the first place, and for special times I use my Nikon D-70 with SB-600 flash, so no problems there. This red-eye dillema happens occasionally when I use my point-and-shoot for quick photos around the house, etc.) Thanks in advance!

3/24/2008 8:34:09 PM

Carin Griffith

member since: 6/29/2006
 
 
 
See photos attached! Thanks!

3/24/2008 8:42:10 PM

Carin Griffith

member since: 6/29/2006
 
 
  Carter Red-Eye
Carter Red-Eye
Carter has the "darker red-eye" here, which is easy to fix.
 
  Carter Red-Eye - Fixed
Carter Red-Eye - Fixed
His red-eye was fixed with the color-replacement tool, and looks okay.
 
  Carter Red-Eye 2
Carter Red-Eye 2
Here, the red is a lighter, brighter red.
 
  Carter Red-Eye 2: Not fixed well!
Carter Red-Eye 2: Not fixed well!
Eeek! The color-replacement tool did NOT fix this well!
 
 
Okay, maybe these photos will load this time!

3/24/2008 8:44:45 PM

 
 
  Red Eye Burn Result
Red Eye Burn Result
Opacity was reduced to about 85% here for the burn layer (set to Multiply).
 
 
Carin,
Thanks for uploading these examples. As you see from this, red-eye tools will fix some things, but not others. The case you show here is pretty extreme. The tool's natural response is to balance the hot color, but there is just too much brightness in the pupil for this to work as designed. The harsh color will be reduced but there will be some unpredictable behavior as well. Such is the case with 'magic' tools as they can't see to evaluate the image. No matter how clever they might be, they still are based on a cold calculation.

As you say, the best solution is avoidance.

Some things you can try here are more an approach to reduce the brightness and mediate the color.

1. create a new layer at the top of your layers stack.
2. set the layer mode to multiply.
3. choose the brush tool and paint in black over the iris.*
4. lower the opacity of the layer until pleased with the result.

*you can use a hard brush and blur, or a soft brush.

Even this will not solve all red-eye problems and may come with issues of its own. For example, the boy ends up having brown eyes here and from other hints I am guessing his natural color may be blue. The issue may be a residual issue from the intense red that was there...

You might add a Hue/Saturation change as well...You can target the area by Command/Ctrl+click on the thumbnail for the layer you painted on to load the solid area as a selection. I don't cover expressly this in my courses here at BetterPhoto, but all the concepts in and around it which lead to these solutions. I hope that helps!

3/25/2008 5:00:00 AM

David Boesch
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/5/2006
  Hi Carin,

The Photoshop method I use is along the lines of Hue/Saturation that Richard mentioned. I find it to be fairly quick and easy to perform:

1) Select each eye using the lasso tool capturing the entire iris.
2) Although not necessary, I create a new layer (Command J)for safety.
3) Open Hue/Saturation (Command U).
4) Instead of MASTER, choose REDS as the color you wish to modify.
5) Now move the SATURATION slider to the far left until the red is completely eliminated.
6) To darken the pupil, slide the LIGHTNESS control to an appropriate level.

If you've created a new layer you will need to flatten the final image. But that's it!

4/1/2008 10:00:28 AM

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Photography Question 
Terri Wells

member since: 11/17/2006
  9 .  Create Gradient in Photoshop CS3?
Using the premise that you can create your own brushes in Photoshop from your own image, can you do the same to make a gradient? Example: I have a photo of a bed of tulips that I wanted to use as a background but fade it from full to transparent from top to bottom.
Thanks, Terri

3/23/2008 1:58:24 PM

Gregory La Grange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  The effect is easily explained, but I'm not sure if you want it saved as something different than a layer that can be copied and pasted.
If you make your tulip image as a layer - either by directly duplicating the layer or selecting the whole image - copy it and paste it on a new background.
Next, you put a layer mask on it, then you choose the gradient tool. You then can drag where ever you'd like your starting point to be.
You can save it as a psd so whenever you need it, you just copy the faded layer.

3/23/2008 8:16:10 PM

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Photography Question 
Denny E. Barnes
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Denny
Denny's Gallery

member since: 1/19/2008
  10 .  Installing Photoshop CS3
I have Photoshop CS3 ready to install, but have Elements 5 in use now. Checking the Internet, I see there has been problems with this installation. I think I should uninstall Elements 5 completely before installing CS3. Is this correct? Any suggestions or best procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

3/15/2008 2:39:07 PM

  When I installed CS2 on my Windows XP PC, I had to install a version of Photoshop 6 first (which was included) and then insert the CS2 disk & install. I already had Elements 5 running and did not make any difference. I recently bought a MAC and downloaded the trial version of CS3 from the Adobe website (since my CS2 was a PC version) and then bought & installed CS3 (MAC version) and never hit a snag.
You may be safer to uninstall Elements and then re-install it afterwards.
I have read about some problems with Elements & Vista. If you have 32 bit Vista, you will need to download the Elements 5.0.2 update.
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=3569

Hope this helps.


3/15/2008 7:49:40 PM

  Carlton, thank you for the info. I really appreciate it~ Denny

3/15/2008 11:19:12 PM

  I have an older elements and am having no problems with it vs Vista. I don't use it much, just for photomerge, usually, so maybe that's why I haven't had a problem. I think Vista has a problem with pretty near everything known to man.

3/17/2008 3:51:30 AM

W. 

member since: 9/25/2006
 
Even with its own updates: SP1, that's been announced for Wednesday, has in Beta proven to slow Vista down by an average of 15%!

Can you avoid installing it?

3/17/2008 7:47:27 AM

  Denny,
I use multiple versions of Photoshop and Elements, and keep them all installed at the same time. While you will not be able to run different versions of the same program, you can run Elements and Photoshop simultaneously - which I do quite often on Mac and PC. There should not be issues installing both ... though I admit I am not on Vista. I use Mac OS 10.5 and Windows XP.
I hope that helps!

3/17/2008 1:25:10 PM

  I now have PS CS3 installed. I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I see I did not include enough info in my question, my computer is an XP. It did not load the first time. My problem was too many things running in the start-up mode. Shut everything down and it loaded OK. Thanks again~ Denny

3/20/2008 8:56:06 AM

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