Ray Strickland |
missing 1/2 picture I have owned this Nikon FM since new. I normally haven't been using the shutter speed above 1/250. As of late I have been using 400asa print film, and shutter speeds of up to 1/1000. All pictures are outside. What is happening is that out of a roll of 24 prints, about 6 prints are missing the bottom half of the picture. It is black. This seems to have just started on the last 3 to 4 rolls of film. There is no defined cutoff line, but fades from black into the image.I thought if I were having a shutter problem, that the top half of the picture would be missing (shutter moves from bottom to top). Looking for some idea what my problem might be. ps. Even on some pictures that are a full image, it is darker at the bottom of the picture. Thanks in advance,
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John A. Lind |
Ray, The image in camera is upside down and backwards. I am not familiar enough with the FM to know which direction the shutter curtains travel. If they travel from bottom to top in the camera body, then this sounds typical of "shutter capping." This is a shutter problem in which the closing curtain is traveling faster than the opening one and catches up to it. Its symptoms are most prominent at higher shutter speeds. You may know some of this already. In focal plane shutters, the shutter curtains always travel at the same speed, regardless of shutter speed. The delay between releasing the opening curtain and the closing one is what determines shutter speed. As shutter speed is increased, the delay becomes shorter. At X-Sync speeds and slower the opening curtain fully travels before the closing one is released. At speeds faster than X-Sync the closing curtain is released before the opening one fully travels. At the highest speeds of 1/1000th, 1/2000th, etc., a narrow slit is traveling across the film plane. It is critical for proper exposure of the entire film plan that both curtains travel at the same speed across it. Again, if the opening one is slower, the closing one will narrow the gap, and at a shutter speed high enough it will completely close it. The "poor man's" test for this: You should see a diagonal band from the computer monitor across the film plane as the curtains travel in at least some of them. The faster the shutter speed, the narrower the band, and it should look about half the width of the one for the next slower shutter speed (if you're doing this in full stops; e.g. 1/500th vs. 1/1000th). Don't try to get to exacting about this, it's not that accurate. If the band changes width, one curtain is traveling faster than the other. Principle of operation: Doing this with nobody else around is recommended lest they think you've lost your mind. Also avoids trying to explain what you're doing and the techno-babble of how it works! -- John
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Ray Strickland |
John, thanks for the info. I quess the only cure is to drop in for servicing?? At least I know what it is. Thanks Ray
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John A. Lind |
Yes, but you may have to take (or send) it somewhere that works on them. Many shops will not work on anything over 10 years old, and some camera stores refuse to take them in for repair. Their standard reply is "pitch the old piece of outdated junk." If it's a camera store, it's also usually accompanied with "Let me show you the latest technological wonders." Remember that camera store sales personnel are paid to sell things! Since this is a Nikon FM, do a search for the Nikon Historical Society web site. I believe they have a list of reputable resources for getting older Nikon cameras repaired (small shops that specialize in working on them). A complete overhaul should not run much more than about $125 - $200. If this seems steep and you think you might simply replace it with a used one, remember you don't know the history of a used camera body. A properly overhauled one done by a reputable shop can be a better deal. In the end, it's a tradeoff decision you must make. Even though I have a different camera system from about the same era, I admire the FM and its successor, the FM2. They fall into a "semi-pro" class just below the heavier F2 and F3, and a lot of pros are still using them because of their lighter weight. They are well designed and well made. There's really nothing that can be done with one of the current "wonder bricks" that cannot be done with your FM . . . and IMHO, they're better made and a properly overhauled one will last longer than current consumer camera bodies. I suspect it's suffering from age . . . something that catches up with every camera. -- John
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