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Black and White film for low light setting/wedding


My friend just asked me to take some decent reception and dance shots at her wedding as their professional photographer is leaving after the wedding. I'd love to use a mixture of B&W and color film. My problem is that I want to be sure to get a good picture without having a high ISO film (I'm sure it'll be low light) so that it is real grainy.

I'll be shooting with a Canon Rebel ... any help would be appreciated!


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August 16, 2002

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  What's wrong with grain? I happen to like grain and that's one of the reasons I use high speed film when shooting weddings. What lens are you using? Is it a fast lens? I like to shoot Delta 3200 rated at ISO 1600. The grain isn't obnoxious and it has nice tones. You really can't get away from grain with high speed film. Learn to embrace it and enjoy it.


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August 18, 2002

 

John A. Lind
  I agree with Jeff about embracing the granularity and making it work for you if it cannot be avoided.

Ilford's Delta 3200 is good and has enjoyed excellent reviews. If you cannot find the Ilford, there is also Kodak's TMax P3200, and I've used it at EI 1600 in small blues clubs to photograph the bands without flash. Both are professional films and you will likely find them only at camera stores that carry pro films. For either one at a wedding I recommend using them at EI 1600.

Some tips about using these films and having them developed (the real reason for this posting):
Both of these are different from other B/W films. Their true film speed is lower than their names imply. Ilford 3200 is actually an ISO 800 film. Kodak's P3200 actually rates between ISO 800 and ISO 1000 depending on exactly what chemicals are used to develop it. Both these films were specifically designed by Ilford and Kodak for multi-speed use and to be "pushed" to one of several speeds higher than their true speed. That's why Kodak's name for theirs has a "P" in it.

If you use either one, you will notice the cannisters have places to mark what film speed you actually shoot it at. Whatever speed you decide to use when you start, you must shoot the entire roll at that same speed. You will have to take it to a full-service pro lab to have it developed. At any speed other than its true speed, it must be "push processed" which adjusts time spent in developing steps to compensate for the deliberate under-exposure. Consumer labs cannot do push processing and I have yet to find one with staff that even knows what push processing is.

Because you have a Canon Rebel which uses the DX coding on the film cannister you will need to override the DX coding on the cannister and setting the speed manually. See your camera manual for how to do this. I also recommend turning your flash off and just using available light. Try it first at EI 1600 and see what your camera metering shows. Jump it up to 3200 only if the light level is too low for 1600. Contrast and graininess will increase slightly at the faster speed.

If you shoot either at EI 1600, it's one stop faster than their true speed and is called "Push 1." At EI 3200, it's two stops faster and is called "Push 2." Tell a pro lab that does push processing what speed you shot it at and they'll know what to do. There will be an additional fee of several dollars for this service as it must be processed separately from other B/W films shot at true, rated speed.

Unlike some other B/W films with very harsh grain, the grain in both of these films is a bit softer and lends a very classic, timeless look to prints made from them. The Kodak film works best at low light levels indoors. At EI 1600 it gives results similar to Tri-X, a classic that's been around for decades and is valued for how its grain looks in prints. However, it doesn't handle broad daylight outdoors nearly as well as the Ilford film does. The Ilford film renders a more modern look although under available light indoors, nearly all B/W tends to take on a very natural, classic look.

-- John


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August 25, 2002

 
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