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Category: Available Light in Photography

Photography Question 

KB B
 

Shooting Subjects Next to Fireplace


I am trying to take a Christmas picture of my children next to the fireplace. I have a Canon Rebel. I am wondering what I should do to get a clear shot of the kids but not use a flash so that I can get that nice "fire glow" effect.


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November 21, 2008

 

W.
  Have the kids stand still long enough to allow you to use a slow shutter speed. Set ISO 200, and Shutter Speed priority. Do a series of exposures at progressively slower shutter speeds. Starting at 1/30th sec. Add a couple of lit candles to the scene. This all presumes you shoot from a tripod! Have fun!


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November 21, 2008

 

KB B
  Thanks!


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November 21, 2008

 
- Gregory LaGrange

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  You can still use a flash if you up the ISO a little (400) - low power flash - and keep the slow shutter speed. Getting a flame to show is much different than getting something to show from the light from the flames. The light falls off very quickly.


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November 21, 2008

 

Bernard
  Experiment with the white balance set to 'shade'. The warm hue may add to the mood of the light of the fireplace.


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November 22, 2008

 

Devon McCarroll
  Have you tried using the rear-curtain sync on your flash? This works for me when trying to capture tree lights. The flash fires right before the shutter closes, so first your sensor picks up the ambient light--in this case the fire--and then the flash illuminates your subjects.


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November 25, 2008

 

Bob Friedman
 
 
 
I just shot a model by the fireplace so here's what I did. I zoomed in close on the fire with the camera set on manual. I then set the camera to that setting. I put the camera on a tripod, moved the model away form the fire and shot with flash with the wide angle diffuser in place to make the light fall off quicker and not expose the background as much. The meter was set to spot so it only measured the flash on the subject not including the background. The white balence was set to flash so the fire would really show reddish orange. This is sometimes called dragging the shutter. The exposure at ISO 400 was 1/15 second at F/9 and I bracketed the shutter speed to get the desired effect for the fire. Admittedly I did some photoshop to darken the right side and add some highlights but should work fine without that fot the kids.


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November 25, 2008

 

Bob Friedman
 
 
 
I just shot a model by the fireplace so here's what I did. I zoomed in close on the fire with the camera set on manual. I then set the camera to that setting. I put the camera on a tripod, moved the model away form the fire and shot with flash with the wide angle diffuser in place to make the light fall off quicker and not expose the background as much. The meter was set to spot so it only measured the flash on the subject not including the background. The white balence was set to flash so the fire would really show reddish orange. This is sometimes called dragging the shutter. The exposure at ISO 400 was 1/15 second at F/9 and I bracketed the shutter speed to get the desired effect for the fire. Admittedly I did some photoshop to darken the right side and add some highlights but should work fine without that fot the kids.


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November 25, 2008

 

W.
 
And are you now going to post the result of your efforts, Bob?


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November 25, 2008

 

Maria Patrice
  Bob
please explain, you mentioned at first that you used manual mode, later you stated you uses spot meter on the subject, wouuldn't manual mode make spot metering useless. excuse my inexperience.
Maria


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November 25, 2008

 
- Gregory LaGrange

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  He didn't explain it well, but what he did was first use the camera meter to see what it read for the fire. That got a starting point for what to set the shutter speed for getting the flames to show in the picture.
But you wouldn't want to use that because the flames would look weak in the picture. It just like metering off something white like snow, the results come out too dark or dull. That's why he bracketed.
He used spot, probably TTL flash metering, so that the flash power would adjust for only his subject and the subject distance.
He spots for the subject, the flash exposes for the subject. The shutter speed that is slower allows the light of the flame to have a good brightness to it, also maybe adding some orange light cast to the subject. Like around the edges.
Reducing the shutter speed also adds blur to the flames.
If you've ever shot a sunset just based on aperture priority or shutter priority, you'll find that it will come out too dark, the colors won't be as vibrant as you'd expect. The same principle here.


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November 25, 2008

 

Bob Friedman
 
 
 
Better explanation. Yes, that's what I did. Trying to post photo now


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November 25, 2008

 

Bob Friedman
 
 
 
Another example from same shoot


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November 25, 2008

 

David E. Chinn
 
 
 
Devon M. had the better choice in my opinion. Rear-curtain sync has worked fine for me. Not much adjustment needed in photoshop if any at all. Try all of the recommendations and see for yourself. Experiment, experiment, experiment. Everyone has they're own way of doing things. Just figure out which one works best for you.


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November 26, 2008

 

W.
 
Wow, Bob!
Where can I get the DVD?


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November 26, 2008

 

David E. Chinn
 
 
  wedding
wedding

David E. Chinn

 
 
Example of rear-curtain syc
f8 1 second spot meter 32mm focal length in manual mode.


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November 26, 2008

 
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