BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

What kind of lights to buy??

To love this question, log in above
September 25, 2008

A rather good, VERY recent thread on the subject. Mark covers a lot and John Siskin, who teaches a highly recommend BP class on lighting chimes in too.

You really should look at that thread.

To love this comment, log in above
September 25, 2008

To love this comment, log in above
September 26, 2008

I have a number of suggestions about buying used gear. First get something common. If you buy something old and relatively unavailable like say Ascor you won’t be able to get anymore of it, or parts or instructions. So buy from a company that is still in business. Second buy studio systems, power packs and heads rather than monolights. These last longer and there are more of them used. I think it is better if you decide what you want and look for it rather than looking at everything and trying to make a decision. Often you can download the instructions from the manufacturer, which might make choosing easier. I have bought and sold lights on EBay with generally good results. Don’t buy anything with a broken fuse.

I would consider Norman and Speedotron particularly. I have used Norman for about 25 years and while they aren’t perfect they are inexpensive on EBay. Speedotron is probably better, but they both are workhorses.

I have been answering questions about lighting gear, which is a good thing. I really should write a detailed note about the used Norman equipment, because so many are asking. So this is that note. First there are several things about my point of view on strobe equipment I should make clear. I made my living with a 4X5 camera for a long time; as a consequence I believe there is no substitute for power. I still light very inefficiently; my lighting set-ups use a lot of power. I also want to have access to professional grade accessories: softboxes, grid spots and so on. This is the reason I would choose to buy the smallest power pack of the top line of a manufacturer rather than the top pack of their middle or low line. For instance Norman has a 900 series line and a 500 series line. The 900 series has the biggest power packs that Norman makes, so this is the line I would buy.

Right now I wouldn’t buy new Norman equipment, the price is rather high for what you get. Norman’s used equipment is a very good deal at this time. There gear is generally good and reliable. It is not a ridiculous risk to buy it used. I would purchase gear on EBay; I have bought Norman gear on EBay in the past with good success. If you do buy bad equipment you have the choice to return it, repair it or sell it to someone else, depending on the circumstances of your purchase. Should you choose to have something repaired be sure you work with a professional strobe repairman, not a camera repairman or a camera store. I use Holly enterprises when I have a

Here is a list of what I would try to get:

P1250D Power pack (the P800D would also be good and is more common, I would avoid the P2000D and the P4000D*)

LH2400 heads, 3 of these (the LH2000 head is also good) Norman made both standard tubes and UV (ultra violet) tube the UV tubes produce less UV light, they are better. If you can get heads with the blower fan that is better.

Light stands, one for each head, these do not need to be a particular brand but they do need to be strong, so don’t scrimp here.

Sync cord. The Norman sync terminal is the same as a wall socket. This is very bad because you can make a mistake. You can buy a household to pc cord from a camera store or online. Paramount is one of the manufacturers. You can also buy a radio sync, no wires! There are people selling inexpensive radio slaves made in china on EBay. I think they are a good value but they do not have the household plug. You would need to make an adapter for the plug they have, which is the size of an electric guitar plug to the household plug. Radio shack would have everything you need.

I would want at least 1-6 inch reflector for each light as well as an umbrella for each light. I would also want a grid spot and a couple of light panels. I do not use soft boxes, except in very unusual circumstances, so I wouldn’t buy them again. Of course there are always more things to buy, but this is a start.

*The P2000D has a minimum power level of 400 watt-seconds, which is too high and the P4000D breaks down, bad design.

To love this comment, log in above
September 26, 2008