BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

Photography Question 

Melissa L. Cavallini
 

Need advice on choosing a studio lighting set


I am ready to purchase my first in-home studio lighting/backdrop setup. I will mainly be photographing portraits of my family members, and some friends. I would like the kit to be somewhat portable.

Based on some other discussions on BP, I am looking at the two sets below...any feedback/pros-cons on one or the other would be helpful. Thanks :)

http://www.backdropsource.com/Productinfo.php? id=1302&pname= studio-size-complete-kit- -with-powerful-flash-kit-and-backdrop-system

http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html


To love this question, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

John H. Siskin
  Hi Melissa,
The Alien Bees have more power as they are more efficient that many other lights. And they are a better product. Many of my students have had Bees over the years and I have heard no negative feedback. Still I would suggest that you get more powerful lights if you can afford them. The extra power will give you more options in how you handle light. The Alien Bees do not include a background system, but there are many places you can get that. I am including links to a couple of articles here at BetterPhoto, including one that describes making a background. Thanks so much for your question.

www.betterphoto.com/article.php?id=129

www.betterphoto.com/article.php?id=176

www.betterphoto.com/article.php?id=156
Thanks, John Siskin


To love this comment, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

Mark Feldstein
  Hi Melissa and John. I agree in that the more I hear about Alien Bees, they're apparently good equipment.

But as both John and I often do, I want to suggest perhaps you think about starting off with a single monolight like a Bowens 750 or even 1000 w/s head and a modifier like a 3x4' softbox. All the portraits on my website were done with a single light and either softbox or strip-bank.

I like monolights for their portability, versatility and the Bowens line for both durability and reliability. I also like not having to schlep more stuff (like power packs) along when I don't have to.

Beyond that, IMO, learning to use a single light at a time makes a somewhat easier learning curve than working with multi-light set-ups from the outset. The other thing John and/or I usually note is that if you buy cheap, underpowered lighting, you'll likely grow to be unhappy with it sooner or later and end up replacing it with the larger more durable/powerful gear hence buying lighting twice. Drop a few extra dimes at the outset, even if you need to grow into the system you get now, later on.
Take it....well, you know.
Mark


To love this comment, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

John H. Siskin
  Hi Melissa,
I have to agree with Mark, but if you are really only looking to take pictures of your own family, it might be possible to get along with less. Mark and I are both professionals, and it changes your perspective on equipment. One of the articles I included with my post is about shooting with one light, which is a better way to start learning.
Thanks, John Siskin


To love this comment, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

Mark Feldstein
  You know Melissa, one thing you can also do is to buy a small pack system, Aliens or a nice clean used Norman P800 system for example, and use it with a single lamp head initially and then add one light at a time as you experiment and various lighting techniques with either single or multi-light set-ups. Aside from the Norman and Alien Bees and Bowens we mentioned, there are also PhotoFlex monolights and their modifiers, and a host of others made both domestically and overseas like the UK, that are all quite good. It's always nice if you can actually lay your hands on the lights you're considering buying, check them on the stands with and without modifiers, for ease of use, recycling time at full power, etc.
Take care.
M.


To love this comment, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

John H. Siskin
  I have purchased a lot of used Norman gear over the years. It is a good value for the money. I use a few of the Norman 200B units as location lights. Thanks, John Siskin


To love this comment, log in above
July 27, 2008

 

Melissa L. Cavallini
  Mark and John,
Thank you SO very much for your advice. I have been looking at the Bowens, and from what I have been able to find, they are out of my price range. I also looked at the Norman P800 and found some used, but couldn't find anything new (I don't trust my judgement on the used ones...they didn't look like they were in too good a shape.) I kept looking for Normans and did find some Allure C1000 - would that be something that would be suitable?

Also, If I go with the Alien Bees, would it be better to go with a B1600?

I have a couple of other questions too...bear with me :)

1. What is the difference or better choice between umbrellas and softboxes?

2. Do I need to get a light meter right off the bat? If so what is a good one that will still be affordable?

3. Is there a reputable online dealer you would recommend for buying a backdrop? I live in a rural area and have nothing of the like anywhere around here.

Again, thank you so much for your advice and comments. I really appreciate your help. ~Melissa


To love this comment, log in above
July 28, 2008

 

John H. Siskin
  Hi Melissa,
The Allure C1000 is a quartz continuous, always on, light. It will be very hot and very bright. Your subjects will not like it.

The B1600 would make an excellent first strobe. Many of my students here at BP have started with this strobe. 640 watt-seconds with an efficient system that makes it feel like a little more.

Mark and I will have some disagreements on approach over the rest of these questions, but that shouldn’t surprise you.

1. I prefer umbrellas. They are easier to set up and much cheaper. You should get one with a removable black back. Unless you really need to because of space or coverage do not shoot through umbrellas, bounce light off the inside. Get at least 40 inches, with a white satin interior. I also use light panels, some times with umbrellas, some times without. I sent a link to a build it yourself light panel earlier in this thread.
2. If you are shooting with a digital camera you should not get a meter, unless you are doing art copy work. Too many of my students think the meter will bless their shot and give them good light. The meter tells you how much light, it doesn’t say if it is in the right place or even if it looks good. You will; be much better off if you tether your camera to a computer when you set-up, or even use the LCD on the back of your camera. Canon includes the software for this, on Nikon it is extra. You should also learn to interpret the histogram, it really helps. Using the camera meter this way is similar to what we used to call the Polameter. That is using Polaroid material to get the exposure.
3. I use Calumet a lot, and have had no troubles. But I have heard of others having difficulties with them. B&H is also good. I included a link about making backgrounds. I have not dealt with Deny, but I know others who have had good experiences with them.

Good luck! John Siskin


To love this comment, log in above
July 28, 2008

 

Melissa L. Cavallini
  John,
Thank you so very much! You confirmed my suspicion that I didn't really need a light meter. I like the article on the light panels/backdrops - it's good. Again, thanks so much. I look forward to trying all this out, and I hope to take a class here on BP sometime soon!

~Melissa


To love this comment, log in above
July 28, 2008

 
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here

Report this Thread