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Setting flash for at night outside


 
 
I'm having problem setting my Canon Rebel XT flash at night for rodeo action photos. What is the best setting?


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June 02, 2008

 

Jon Close
  Looks like you're too far away for flash to be effective. Shutter speed is too slow for hand-held shooting. What exposure mode, shutter, aperture, and ISO? Most you can do is crank up the ISO and use a fast lens (f/2.8 or wider aperture).


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June 02, 2008

 

W.
 
"Most you can do is crank up the ISO and use a fast lens (f/2.8 or wider aperture)" (Jon C.)

Yep.
And fast glass is VERY expensive...

Also, that photo was 'panned' of sorts. The calf is the least out-of-focus, so you seem to have been tracking it. The cow dudes and dudettes in the BG all seem to appear as ghost triplets. As if you jerked while panning.
So imo there is still a lot of improvement possible in your photographing technique, Kim.

Try a tripod.


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June 02, 2008

 

Jon Close
  Interesting comment about the people in the background appearing as "ghost triplets." I could be wrong, but I don't think it's the result of any jerky motions of the camera. I think it might be due to the artificial lights which actually flicker with the electrical current at 60 cycles per second. Panning with a slow shutter speed will capture multiple images of the stationary background in a strobe effect.

f/2.8 zooms are very expensive, but you can get some short to medium tele lenses for not too much. EF 50 f/1.8 II is just $80, EF 50 f/1.4 USM is $325, EF 85 f/1.8 USM is $355, EF 100 f/2 USM is $410. EF 135 f/2L USM is very expensive, but the often overlooked EF 135 f/2.8 SF is sharp and only $295. Plus it has a Soft Focus feature for dreamy portraits or landscapes.


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June 03, 2008

 

Alan N. Marcus
  On flash at a sporting event and similar:

Light from our camera's flash falls off with distance, more than you would think!

Light from a point source camera mounted flash severely weakens with distance, following a law in physics “The Law of the Inverse Square. Just how quickly it weakens is difficult to convey but I will try.

Say your flash outputs 1000 units of light energy measured 1 foot ahead of the camera. We can calculate the brilliance delivered at the 2 foot mark thus 2 x 2 = 4 (square of the distance) written 4/1. Now accordingly, we invert this value writing it as 1/4. This math conveys to us that if we double the distance, light falls too one quarter (1/4) of its original value. That translates to 250 units light energy at the 2 foot mark.

Now let’s calculate the brilliance at the 4 foot mark. 4 x 4 =16 written 16/1, now we invert 1/16 translated; the light energy at the 4 foot position fades to one sixteenth strength = 62 1/2 units.

What follows is a table based on 1000 units measured at the 1 foot mark. Also let’s say the correct exposure (aperture) setting was f/32 at the 1 foot mark. Remember, each f/number 1 - 1.4 – 2 – 2.8 – 4 – 5.6 – 8 -11 -16 – 22 - 32 corresponds to s a 2x change at the film/chip plane.

1 ft. = 1/1 = 1000 units ~ aperture = f/32
2 ft. = 1/4 = 250 units ~ aperture = f/16
4 ft. = 1/16 = 62.5 units ~ aperture = f/8
8 ft. = 1/54 = 15.6 units ~ aperture = f/4
16 ft. = 1/256 = 4 units ~ aperture = f/2
32 ft. = 1/1024 = 1 unit ~ aperture = f/1

What I am trying to inform is: Flash falls off extremely rapidly with distance. After perhaps 16 feet, unless the flash is exceptionally powerful it is useless. When you see flashes going off in the stands at a sports event, you should be aware that flash photography s at distance is doomed to failure.

For success, turn to available light photography supplemented by high ISO and large aperture lenses.

Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
ammarcus@earthlink.net


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June 03, 2008

 
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