 Jerry J. Fictum |
shutter speeds and exposure
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W. |
Try a smaller aperture. If you can't go smaller, add a CP or ND (or 2), and try again. If you shoot RAW you can adjust/correct the exposure in PP, after the fact. Have fun!
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Jerry ! The reason for W.S. answer is based on the relationship between shutter speeds and f-stops which is pretty straightforward. Take for example, f8.0 at 1/250th of a second and using ISO 200. Once you have that setting established, if you want to shoot at a slower speed, set the camera to 1/125 AND because you're letting more light in via shutter speed, CLOSE your lens down one f-stop to f11.0. Going further, at 1/60th of a second, same lighting conditions, use f16.0 OR at 1/30th of a second, f22.0. Conversely, if you want to let the same amount of light in and working at the same initial exposure and ISO 200, with a faster shutter speed instead of 1/250th, move to 1/500th of a second AND OPEN your lens up one stop to f5.6; OR even faster, 1/1000th of a sec. at f2.8. In some ways you can do the same thing by changing your ISO. Think of ISO speed in direct relation to either shutter speed OR f-stops. If for example, you shoot at ISO 200 and want to overexpose by one stop consistently throughout that particular session, just change to ISO 100, which is the equivalent of a one-stop difference. 1 stop over or under exposed. OK, now for one of our train problems. A train leaves Chicago at 250 p.m. headed for New York. Another train leaves Kansas City headed for Denver in the raw mode at 4:15...............No...wait...never mind the train problems. Ask W.S. LOL !!
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John H. Siskin |
Hi Jerry, You might want to look at this article, it should make things a little more clear: www.betterphoto.com/article.php?id=135. I wonder why you are shooting on manual exposure? It is much faster to use aperture priority or shutter priority. Thanks, John Siskin
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Jerry, A long time ago it was deemed appreciate to control exposure by doubling or halving. While this logic has been muddied as late here is a list of the classic shutter speeds. 1 – 1/2 – 1/4 – 1/8 – 1/15 – 1/30 – 1/60 – 1/125 – 1/250 -1/500 – 1/1000 Please observe that each going right is twice as fast meaning light can play on the film or chip for only for half the time as its neighbor to the left. Stated another way: 1 second on the left allows light to play of the film or chip for a very long period. Since light energy can accumulate, the slower shutter speeds allow more light energy to be imparted on the film or chip. Going right the shutter mechanism opens and closes more quickly. Each increment allow less and less light energy to effect the film or chip.
1 – 1.4 – 2 – 2.8 – 4 – 5.6 - 8 – 11 – 16 – 22 This set is also based on a doubling or halving of the light energy allowed to play on the film or chip. f/1 is big in size and allows lots of light to pass. f/22 is tiny restricting light. Say your camera selects 1/125 second at f/8 as the correct exposure. You can change to a different combination and maintain the same exposure energy. If you choose to use a slower shutter say 1/60 you have allowed twice as much light energy to play of the film or chip because of the time change. To compensate you must close (move to a smaller) the aperture. You would move right on the list (smaller apertures larger numbers) thus 1/60 second at f/11 affords the same exposure as 1/125 at f/8. 1/30 at f/16 is the same as is 1/250 at f/5.6. Maybe you can get the idea. Nobody said it’s easy. “Sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.”
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Bob Cammarata |
If you want to meter manually, set your shutter first for the effect you want to achieve, then set your aperture to over-expose the brightest portion of your waterfall by 1/2 stop. (Any more than that and your highlights will blow out.) Also, exclude the sky from the frame for the same reason. You can read more at this link.
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W. |
That link is a merry-go-round, Bob . . .
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