BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

Photography Question 

Kelley A. Kempf
 

sunny 16 rule


Forgive me for my questions sounding dumb but I am a new photography student. I understand the sunny 16 rule but I was try to take a B/W picture of some kittens under a car and of course there was no light (shade of car) under the car so I kept my f-stop at 16 but does that apply when it's sunny but the shot your trying to get is in the shade. Thank-you in advance for any help you could shine on this subject. Kelley


To love this question, log in above
September 07, 2007

 
- Gregory LaGrange

BetterPhoto Member
Contact Gregory LaGrange
Gregory LaGrange's Gallery
  Nope.
There's actually a general rule for something that's in open shade, I think to change the f/stop to f/8 as the reference.
But that's open shade such as the shady side of a house where you have light reflecting from the sky and everything else in a wide expanse. Underneath a car is a confined space that changes the amount of reflected light coming in. So you have to estimate.


To love this comment, log in above
September 07, 2007

 

John P. Sandstedt
  The sunny 16 "rule" goes back a long way and, in fact was shown on all Kodak film boxes and their dataguides. The rule - f/stop = f/16, shutter speed = 1/focal length - was always considered a starting point and not necessarily the "correct" exposure.

Greg's correct - opening to f/8 would be the obvious place to start. Also, you might think about bracketting - my "old" EOS 3 lets me bracket, seeting the the position of the meter readin gin the range of the three exposures to be taken. Not sure, cause I've not it, whether my 30D works the same way.


To love this comment, log in above
September 07, 2007

 

Jon Close
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16
f/16 aperture and 1/ISO shutter speed is the starting point if your subject is lit by bright direct sunlight. Kittens under a car are in much darker light and would need much more exposure (wider aperture and longer shutter speed).

1/focal lenght for shutter speed is a rule of thumb to avoid motion blur due to camera shake.


To love this comment, log in above
September 07, 2007

 

John G. Clifford Jr
  Does your camera have a light meter? If so, use it! It will tell you what the proper exposure for a medium gray card would be in that instance. You, then, have to figure out how much lighter or darker your subject is than middle gray, and set the exposure accordingly.


To love this comment, log in above
September 07, 2007

 

Bob Cammarata
  All of the above answers are correct but the difference in reflective meter readings off a neutral object in sunlight vs shade will depend upon how bright the sun is.

I once performed a simple test on a stretch of gray asphalt road on a clear sunny day. The sun was bright, the atmosphere was clear of haze and there was defined line in the road where the shadow from a building was blocking the sunlight.
I metered the sunny side of the road first then the shaded portion.
The difference was around four stops.
This means that if the sunlit side was 1/125 at f-16, the shade metered at 1/125 at f-4.
As mentioned before, these readings are starting points from which to bracket over and under.
It's also worth mentioning that shaded sunlight on a clear day is "cool" and everything in the shadows will record with a blueish tinge. Film shooters commonly add a warming filter to minimize this effect.

Bob


To love this comment, log in above
September 07, 2007

 

John G. Clifford Jr
  "[T]he difference in reflective meter readings off a neutral object in sunlight vs shade will depend upon how bright the sun is."

Well, yes. That's what a light meter does... tell you how much light is there.

Again, for the original poster (OP), use your light meter to meter your subject. Look at the reading you obtained, and then compare the tonal value of the subject with medium grey, and adjust accordingly.

BTW, this is what is great about digital cameras... the ability to 'chimp' (study the results of your photo and its histogram, and adjust the exposure accordingly). Take a picture, look at the results, adjust the camera, and take another! And... LEARN from this by figuring out why it is you had to change your exposure from what the meter indicated.


To love this comment, log in above
September 09, 2007

 

Kathleen Rinker
  Bob would you then average the readings and adjust your f-stop somewhere in the middle if you were to take a picture, say f-8?


To love this comment, log in above
September 10, 2007

 

Bob Cammarata
  A setting in the middle (f-8 in this example) would indeed be a practical starting point but only if your goal was to record as much detail as possible from both extremes.

If your intended photograph includes only the sunlit portions (...or just the shaded parts) then you can trust your in-camera meter to give an acceptable reading off a neutral tone within your frame of composition.
Keep in mind though that when you set your camera to expose in deep shade, any portion of the frame the sun is hitting will likely over-expose.
(...and remember what I said before about deep shade..."Beware, the blue".)

Bob


To love this comment, log in above
September 10, 2007

 

Kelley A. Kempf
  Thank you all for your wealth of wisdom! It's so nice to have a site to go to when your learning photography and you have lots of unanswered questions. You guys have been a lifesaver! Thanks again for taking time to answer my question. Kelley


To love this comment, log in above
September 11, 2007

 

Jonathan A. Otto
  Try this web site. I have used this using slides, but it doesn't seem to work real well with digital.

http://www.mccd.edu/faculty/gwartneyj/images/Basic%20Daylight%20Exposure%20Guide.pdf


To love this comment, log in above
September 28, 2007

 
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here

Report this Thread