 Diane Agar |
Shoot in HDR What does it mean to shoot in HDR
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W. |
It means getting pretty pictures. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDRI
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- Carlton Ward Contact Carlton Ward Carlton Ward's Gallery |
Hi Diane, It stands for "High Dynamic Range" and it works by shooting the same image mounted on a tripod using a combination of underexposed thru overexposed images that when layered together will make an HDR image. I have only tinkered with HDR but have seen some incredible results that look 3D and have incredible detail. I shot a mountain that with the overexposed images rendered the darker foreground trees more detail and the underexposed showed more detail of the lighter background. You also have 2 ways of doing this with either photoshop or you click on several images in Adobe Bridge, there is an HDR option that will plaster them together.
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Debby A. Tabb |
This sounds very imtresting! can you do this using D200 and having Photo shop 7? and how exactly? Thanks for any help, "Computer Challanged"
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Colleen Farrell |
I would love to be able to do this, but I can't afford the software. You can do it in PS CS2, as it has a "Merge to HDR" feature. The whole process is laid out in Digital Camera World (dec 2005), a British magazine. It's about 15 steps so probably not easy to describe here. You may be able to order back issues of this magazine online at www.dcmag.co.uk. But then, I'm sure other magazines have also discussed it!
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Debby A. Tabb |
Thanks Colleen, I do have CS2 and have had it for about 6 mos, but I am so computer challanged I am affraid to load it as I am so used to PS7. It just sucks to get used to something new. I know you really can teach old dogs new tricks if they will Pay attention and LEARN! lol,lol Thanks again, Debby
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Robyn Gwilt |
Carlton, is this not the same as doing the 'Orton' effect, but just not applying the Gaussian blur to the final layer?
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Robyn Gwilt |
Carlton, is this not the same as doing the 'Orton' effect, but just not applying the Gaussian blur to the final layer? Ok, just tried, and I don't think it is?! On PSE4 under Filters, Other, you'll find High Pass - what is High Pass? Debbie, sit Ubu, sit!!(I feel the same about Paint Shop Pro!!)
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W. |
If you don't feel like using Photoshop for HDR you can also try Photomatix (http://www.hdrsoft.com/; FREE trial!).
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Christopher A. Vedros |
I haven't used any of the dedicated programs or routines for HDR images, but I will try them out when I get the time. ;-) However, I've been doing a simple basic method for this that can probably be done in any image editor that can handle layers. No special magic required. ;-) If you have a high-contrast scene, or just don't want to blow out the sky on a landscape shot, take an underexposed picture to keep detail in the highlights, and an overexposed picture to bring out detail in the shadows. Open both images and copy one into the other, so you have each image on a separate layer. Put the image that has the most visible detail on top. I find this is usually the overexposed image, with details in the shadows and blow-out highlights. Then select the top layer, and use the transparency brush to "paint in" detail in the highlights. What I'm really doing is making the very bright parts of the image transparent so that the details visible in the bottom layer will show through. I usually keep the transparency brush set at about 30% with a soft edge so everything looks seamless. I don't use PhotoShop, so I don't know exactly how this would translate to PS. I know PS has different ways of blending layers, but I haven't learned how that works. In my editor, you don't blend layers. To see a bottom layer, you need to apply some amount of transparency to the layers on top of it. Chris A. Vedros
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks Chris, I've done that with a pic which was published in an outdoor mag here - I thought I was just using layers, and brushing out the highlights - seems I was doing HDR :) LOL - Will look at W's links later - off to bed!
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Christopher A. Vedros |
What do you do if you want to increase the dynamic range of an image, but you didn't take multiple exposures of it? I've used the same method above with just one image. I'll open the RAW image and adjust the exposure to get detail in the shadows and save as a TIFF. Then go back to the original RAW image and adjust the exposure to get detail in the highlights and save as a second TIFF. Then I'll combine the two TIFFs as described above. Of course, if you highlights are truly blown out, you likely won't be able to recover any detail from them. That's why I usually keep 2/3 to 1 stop of negative exposure compensation set on my camera. You are more likely to pull extra detail out of dark shadows than out of bright highlights. Chris A. Vedros
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Colleen Farrell |
Debby, I certainly know what you mean about being afraid to try a new program! Even if I could afford a bigger version of PS (I only have Elements 2.0!), I'd be nervous about installing it for fear I'd lose all my current photos! LOL Chris--sounds like you have a good alternative technique. WS--I'll look into that other program.
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