 Donald Zero |
Question about flash/trigger voltages/strobes... Hello, I'm in the middle of a project and could use some help. I've been learning more and more about external flashes, and how to trigger them. I realize most new digital SLRs need a low voltage system to work (without destroying the electronics). I've seen the wein safe sync, and a wireless option may work as well. Here's my problem. My strobe unit is very old, and has the older mechanical type of switch. The voltage was measured at about 26V. The trigger on the strobe is actually from a motor that moves a lever, and the lever pushes one metal strip up into another metal strip to complete the connection, then the xenon strobe fires. Now, I'm thinking I can solder a wire to each of those strips, and they end in a pc connection that would plug into the wein safe sync that is attached to the hot shoe of my digital camera. In this way, when I hit the shutter release, the camera would send a signal through the hot shoe adapter and complete the circuit and set off the flash. Am I missing something? I don't have a SLR to check, but is there normally no connection between the middle pin on the hotshoe and the ground rails? I'm not possitive if the way I have it going in my head would really work, but can't come up with a great way to check it out without asking or doing. thanks for any help you can provide.
|
|
|
|
||
|
John H. Siskin |
I don’t know where you’re located but I would ask this question of a professional strobe repairman, with experience. I use Brent Hollister at (818)892-9021. Having said that I would try to set this up with a radio slave from China. These are available on eBay for a very low price, around $40. If it doesn’t work you haven’t destroyed your camera. Thanks, John Siskin
|
|
|
|
||
|
Debby A. Tabb |
John, you have mentioned these before, do you find these real reliable? I went with Light Link and have stayed there only because they are so reliable. But as always looking for a less expensive toy for my ventures. Thank you (oh and you asked something of me on a thread and I never got back to it... Christmas ended and there is still to much to do-this has been a wierd holiday season,lol. Please refreash my memory, I am just getting into my first cup of coffee and in a daze, thanks again) Debby
|
|
|
|
||
|
John H. Siskin |
Hi Debby, I don’t remember what I asked you on another thread, if I ever find out, I’ll let you know. Regarding reliability, I don’t find any system, including wired sync perfectly reliable. Optical slaves are certainly not perfectly reliable. Infrared triggering devices are terrible. What I do find is that these Chinese units offer very good service for the money. I also find that I can afford a back-up unit, which is a big step forward in reliability, and still have a great bargain. It should be said that I don’t generally shoot events, for the location and studio work that I do these Chinese units seem to be an excellent tool. A big part of the problem is that the sync sockets are not made well enough for the serious work they do. Nikon still puts a thread in their PC sockets, which holds the cord better, but I haven’t seen a threaded cord in years. The camera manufacturers are giving us amateur grade connectors, PC & hot shoe, for a professional level purpose. On top of this many of the optical slaves, I use these a lot, are just random, going off or not for no real reason. Bi post sync was better. Thanks,
|
|
|
|
||
|
Donald Zero |
Thanks for the responses. I looked into the wireless remotes, mostly sold on ebay for very little. There are a few reviews if you take the title of the ebay listing and google it along with "review." From what I've read, they are great because of the cheapness and they work most of the time. I've heard they aren't so great when they are close together, mostly due to interference. Six inches or so was mentioned, they'll just fire randomly. I've also read that phones, or other devices will set them off. May not be the best option for a clinic, as I'd rather not have patient's cell phones setting off the flash all the time. Not too expensive to play around with, and I do like the fact that it completely isolates the voltage. I've read about some DIY voltage regulars that make use of an optotriac, but those don't seem to be sold at radioshack anymore from my understanding and it probably wouldn't save me a whole lot of money anyway. Further reading indicates the nikon doesn't like voltages over 250V, or negative voltages (reversed polarity I'm assuming). This comes from the manual. Canons are supposed to be really sensitive and dont' like over 6V. I'm guessing the 26V I'm reading should be okay, but for $30-50 I'll just be safe. The other option is to use the remote shutter ML-L3 IR control. I've seen people add an external button to that, and perhaps I could splice my mechanical trigger for the strobe up so that it fires when the button on the remote is pressed. I'm not so sure about proper syncing with this though, and the voltage of the strobe may destroy the ML-L3, but just something else I thought of. Then I could avoid the entire hot-shoe issue on the camera altogether. I'm betting this way would probably destroy the remote shutter though.
|
|
|
|
||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||