 Deborah Liperote |
Cameras Okay, here's my dumb question. Why would one buy a 20D/30D= 8mps when you can pay considerably less and get the rebel xti=10.1 mps? I know there's bells and whistles on these cameras. But i've seen wedding photographers running around with Rebels. I'm sure there's lots of high tech reasons why one would get the 20/30Ds but would you please indulge me with those reasons.
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chrisbudny.com - Chris Budny Contact Chris Budny Chris Budny's Gallery |
Oh! I hope we get a good set of answers, maybe Jon will chime in... I seem to recall the 30D is advertised with a 100,000 shutter life (whereas I've heard the Rebels are good for something in the 25,000 - 40,000 range, but that could be wildly subjective.) I'd love to read some other answers here---was leaning towards the 30D myself, now, wondering why NOT to go with 400/XTi?
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Jon Far |
As the saying always goes "you get what you pay for" A professional woundn't be seen dead with a REBEL! Someone that shoots weddings needs a long shutter life. The 20D is the bottom of the barrel, but affordable, a good backup and great for low-light conditions.
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Deborah Liperote |
So is that the deal.... is long shutter the main situation? The more expensive a camera the longer life it has. As often as cameras come out, why not pay $800-$900 for the 10.1 mp and then upgrade 2 years later on the next middle(in price) of the road camera that will then be 12-14 mp? I spent a pretty penny for my 30D and they turn around and release a rebel with 10 mp for almost half the price I paid for my 30d (not really 1/2 but you know what I mean) I should have bought the rebel with 8 mp then 2 years later bought the rebel 10 mp. and 2 years from now do the same thing. So if I get the 5D will they come out with a rebel for $900 next year that has 12.2 or whatever it is that the 5d has now? Believe me ..i'm not being sarcastic, I'm just frustrated- if that makes any sense.
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Jon Far |
If you like the rebel then you will Love-Love the 5D and won't purchase another camera for over 3years. Alot of women are buying it for its weight and the quality is exceptional. The pixels aren't important, its the sensor + a great lens that makes great shots. You can also see better through a 5D (wide viewfinder). You won't be sorry.
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Deborah Liperote |
thank you, Jon. I appreciate your suggestion and I know I'm gtonna get the 5 D. I just wish it was free. Hee! Hee!
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
You could explore this thinking with any camera. N80 or the F5, A2 or the EOS 3. With many camera models, regardless of film or digital, and regardless of large format or not, most of what you can shoot with one you can do the same with the other that cost much less. Many times what you will need that won't get with the cheaper model can be important, but it will be one or just a few things. Like higher sync speed, metal body, or body design that will have a better grip. Camera companies don't need several models in their line up. If they would make one, give it a sync of 250 or 500. Apeture priority, shutter priority, manual. Frame advance of about 4fps. Spot metering option. Self timer. Make it durable. Not much else you need. Let most everything be up to the person to learn and get better.
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anonymous A. |
That's not a dumb question, and the 400 is a very capable camera. But the general build and fit is of a lower standard, and the specifications are less complete; for instance, the plastic body is not as robust as the titanium of the 30D, the weather sealing isn't in the same class and the shutter is not rated for the workload of a professional tool. As a newer model, it benefits from upgraded technology, but in practice, the difference between 8 and 10 megapixels is not worth worrying about.
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Deborah Liperote |
I realy do appreciate your comments too, Greg and David. So by owning a 30D or by all means a 5D and higher, I'm owning a work horse instead of a pony. Atleast thats what I'm getting from your comments. I have taken an unbelievable amount of pictures since I jumped into (pro) photography this year (April). And I guess I'm just taking my work horse for granted because of the new release of the 10 mp pony. I do love my camera. And the reason I'm having difficulty is because I work with another photographer who was supplied with a Nikon D2x 12.4 and in order for me to break into the biz I had to go out and get my own camera, lenses, flash,batteries etc. I can really tell the difference (noise) between her photos and mine and it's depressing!
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Pete H |
Hello Deborah, Not a dumb question at all. This question is really no different than asking "why buy a Mercedes or BMW instead of a Ford?" Both essentially provide the same end effect; getting from point "A" to point "B" Obviously there is a difference in comfort, convenience and quality. The camera question is no different. With the advent of digital cameras, amateurs are clicking the shutter a LOT more than the days of 35mm film...so yes; shutter life is one variable to strongly consider. Without going into ALL the specific reasons to purchase a higher end camera; I'll quote an old TV show, it is like the "Bionic Man", faster, stronger and better. LOL Of course, much of your decision is driven by budget. The top reasons you may want to go with a higher end camera have already been stated except for one I think. In between comfort and quality, that also goes to ergonomic design, would be (placement) of the controls. Nothing can frustrate a competent photographer faster than fumbling around for a control that just isn't available or is available but difficult to easily access w/o taking your eye from the view finder.
All the best, Pete
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- Carlton Ward Contact Carlton Ward Carlton Ward's Gallery |
Also consider getting a couple of L lenses. Quality lenses do make a huge difference in how sharp your pictures are captured. You can even rent them at some camera shops and you will see the difference. Camera bodies will continue to evolve quickly and become outdated in a few years but good glass can last a very long time.
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Marianne Fortin |
My understanding is that the body is, of course, important but the lenses are more important because lenses should outlive several bodies. As someone fairly new to digital photography I am in the market for my first DSLR and will probably get the XTi because it should last me until I know enough to decide on a more expensive body. I will try to get the best lenses I can afford, however. Another reason for starting with the XT1 is that I have small hands and it seems to fit.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
I think an inherent advantage to full frame sensors is noise tends to be lower. I'm going by what I've think I've read about when new full frame models came out, so that may not be true. But with digital, you have that reality of new models being able to do something better than previous ones. So you deal with it or not. So if you noticeably see a difference in the photos between models, part of the busniess life is improving your product. So if your busniness is going, with taxes and everthing, new equipment is a deduction.
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John Setzler |
One thought that I have is that resolution is not a primary driver for me when I'm considering a camera. I own a 10d and a 20d, but I got them for other reasons. The durability overall is a little better on these models in my opinion. I do a lot of lens changing and the mounts on these two cameras are a little more formidable than the mount on the rebel. I really liked the magnesium alloy body on the 10d that got replaced by the polycarbonate body on the 20d, but I like them both a little more than the plastic body on the rebel. The rebel is a good camera and fully capable of doing projects such as weddings. I think it really comes down to preference.
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Suzanne Colson |
I upgraded to the 30D from a Rebel XT on a whim; I couldn't afford the 5D and was disappointed with the pictures I was getting on the Rebel XT. Now, of course, that could only be the camera, right? It wasn't a very good reason to upgrade. I would hope my photos have improved some to help justify. I can say, though, that I love the feel of the 30D. Like others have said it is a much sturdier camera. I did some comparisons of my photos and I believe there is less noise from the Rebel XT to the 30D. I wonder, though, is there less noise when looking at photos from the XTi and the 30D
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Oliver Anderson |
I think adding L lenses to a Rebel XTI is like putting a Porsche Turbo engine into a Volkswagon. I think it would be a great backup but not sturdy enough for heavy use (I use a 10D and love it with the Battery Grip) I also had a friend and experienced photographer purchase both the 5D and 1Ds MarkIIN and couldn't understand why the photos with the 1Ds were sharper. Canon told him it was their Pro Line and therefore a better line of cameras.
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anonymous A. |
Don't fret, John...the 20D and 30D both retain the magnesium body shell of the 10D, with some improvements to the weatherproofing.
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Jane M |
I read the XTi is worse for noise at high ISOs than the 20/30D. Also don't forget the rear thumbwheel - if you're shooting in Manual mode it's a godsend!
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Deborah Liperote |
Have you guys found that the canon cameras give off a red hue on skin tones? Suggestions on fixing it??? Like I said I have the 30D. I keep trying to fix this problem in my settings (in the camera) and i'm desiring the 5D but if this is a canon problem then I may switch to Nikon. My associate has a Nikon D2x and her colors are rendered so nicely. Suggestions???????????
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anonymous A. |
I like rich, saturated colours and find the typical Nikon rendering flat and lifeless. If you like it (as many do) then you can readily match it with the 30D by turning off all in-camera enhancements or by shooting in RAW. The default camera setting for the 20D gives renders images like the Nikon while the alternative and I think this is the same with the 30D. Just set the Parameter in the Menu to 2. Parameter 2 should be your setting in the manual modes, including P. All color saturation/ contrast/sharpness settings will be zero. Parameter 1, which is used in the auto and scene modes, sets saturation, sharpness, and contrast all set to +1, which may be why skin tones look a bit red. Yolu might also like to adjust your white balance using White Balance bracketting to see what suios your preferences best. WB bracketing will take 3 shots in a row, each with a different WB setting. You can choose the bracket on the blue/amber or green/magenta axis. Even once you set this, you can use WB Shift to modify any shot the same way you use exposure compensation...you use the joystick on the back of the camera to choose the exact color shift you desire, something you can't do on any other camera anywhere near this price range, as far as I know.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Nope, haven't seen a red problem with mine.
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BetterPhoto Member |
There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers.
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