 Matthew Cannedy |
Does sulfur damage lenses? Hello Everyone So, I was in Yellowstone photographing the geisers and springs, which expel sulphuric gases. When I got done taking pictures, I noticed that some of the sulfuric "mist" had landed on the lens surface (actually the lens filters). I tried to clean them with the traditional methods, but there is still a residue that I can't get off. I havn't tried anything else yet,nor have I rubbed hard because I know about the coatings that are easily damaged. I figured I would ask some experts who have likely had this problem before I try anything else. The lenses are actually Nikon NC clear filters, L37c filters, and a Tiffen graduated ND filter. Of course, they are all multicoated and expensive 77mm. Is there any way to remove the residue, or did I just ruin about $500 worth of filters? Thanks in advance.-Matt
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Matthew, Its unlikely that the sulfur fumes have done any permanent damage. Treatment is alcohol on Q tip. Best clearer is Ethel Alcohol sold in liquor store. This stuff is 90% pure Ethel Alcohol. Not all states allow the sale of this item. If you procure some: Clean glass as you usually do. The idea is to get off all the dust. Immerse Q Tip in solution and wipe with moderate pressure with a circular stroke, from center to edge. First try the 25% solution, no results? Move to the next stronger mix. Finish with commercial lens fluid applied to well washed cotton under shirt. The lens and filter and their coating are harder than you think. Lots of luck, Alan Marcus
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Matt: While Alan's suggestion may be a good one, I get nervous applying ethanol or derivatives, even in dilute form, to a coated lens. The dishsoap is fine, however. If you want some premixed stuff that certainly won't harm the coating on your lenses, try ROR (Residual Oil Remover) available from B&Hphotovideo.com but best order it quick cause they're closing for a week tomorrow afternoon. OR, ROR has a web site at http://www.ror.net/index.htm It's really excellent lens cleaner if you follow the directions on the bottle. Just a light spritz on lens tissue, not the glass, gently wipe it in circular motions from the center to the outer edge. Clean wipe, (not more ROR) and keep doing that til the residue is all gone. The other stuff B&H sells that works well (but I like ROR better) is Zeiss Clean. Oh, and be careful not to get moisture into your lens barrel by using too much solution.
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi again Matthew, I guess you must choose if the advice I am giving regarding Ethel Alcohol has merit. I can only tell you that every word I post is carefully chosen. I am not in the habit of dispensing bad advice. Best regards, Alan Marcus
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Alan: I'm certainly not accusing you of giving bad advice. All I said is I don't like applying ethanol based solvents to lenses no matter what their ultimate molar concentration may be. I know ROR won't harm lens coatings, neither will the Zeiss Clean. And I also know that ROR will clean just about any residue off any lens without harming the coating, including smoke and soot. I think when you're giving out that kind of advice, giving some credit to your information source might be useful. Don't be embarassed Alan. Afterall, if you've invented Alan's Lens Cleaner, you should be proud and use this as a marketing opportunity. BTW, do you have a daughter who happens to be a photographer located in N. Calif?? Relax. Take it light. ;>)
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi all, Only child is a son, he is a lawyer. Maybe I could adopt. Any potential daughters out there who would want a retired almost 70 year old mentor who is a photo engineer who was never a professional photographer? Lens coating are not paint or plastic. They are produced by artificial tarnishing the lens surface. The lens surface is vacuum deposited with silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide. In modern times this overcoat is applied by electron beam. The purpose is to reduce flare caused by internal reflections. Modern lenses have multiple glass to glass and glass to air junctions. Each internal junction gives light the opportunity to be reflected from the polished glass surface. Internal reflections result in misdirected rays that bath the image plane with non-image forming light. Coating helps prevent. The front element is coated with especially hard stuff, that’s the element you see. It’s coating increases light transmission (speed) by maybe 2%. You will find that it is quite durable. Ethel alcohol is almost always used during assembly. It most likely will do the job. Commercial cleaners are probable too timid to remove mineral deposits. Even if the front element coating is damaged, you will not see much if any image degradation. The real harm will be cosmetic, which erodes pride of ownership. Alan Marcus
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Sulphur from a geiser, damage over time to things it gets on and stays on, but I don't think you did anything to it from your visit. Sulphur oxides and water, acid rain. I do like Zeiss lens cleaner. But even Zeiss can leave streaks if you don't use one lens tissue to clean and one to wipe. So try that, plus rub a little harder. Neat info about the vodka.
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