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Photography Question 

Joyce Baldassarre
 

Eliminating the yellow cast


What type of filter ahould I get to eliminate the yellow cast on photos when shooting indoors with the flash? Everything has a yellow tinge to it and I want a more natural color.


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June 14, 2006

 

Christopher A. Vedros
  You need a color correcting filter to balance the yellow tone from the tungsten lights.

Look for an 80A, 80B or 80C filter. They remove the yellow cast in varying amounts. Off the top of my head, I can't remember which has the strongest correcting power, the 80A or the 80C.

Film shooters, can I get a little help here?

Chris A. Vedros
www.cavphotos.com


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June 14, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  Did I misread you question Joyce? You did say you were shooting indoors WITH the flash and getting a yellow cast?
That's peculiar! If anything, most flash pictures exhibit a slight bluish cast.
Are you shooting film or digital?


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June 14, 2006

 

Christopher A. Vedros
  I checked Joyce's gallery and saw that she was shooting film. I assumed it was a typo and she meant shooting indoors withOUT flash.

Although, if shooting in Av mode, with fill flash, you can still get a warm tone from tungsten lights.

Chris A. Vedros
www.cavphotos.com


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June 14, 2006

 

Bob Cammarata
  A yellow-cast is possible when shooting indoors with flash if you are dragging the shutter...(shooting with a slow shutter speed).
This will allow some of the ambient light to record.
You can solve the problem by turning off the indoor lights so that your flash will be the only illumination.

An 80-A lens filter can correct the color shift but it's recommended that you apply this filter when shooting flash-free. A tungsten-balanced film can also be used. This may not always be practical though, as it may require a really long exposure time.

If you must use flash in mixed lighting, both need to be color-corrected. The 80-A filter will balance your daylight film to the indoor lights and an amber filter placed over the flash head will keep the parts illuminated by the flash from looking too blue.


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June 15, 2006

 

Michael H. Cothran
  Chris' info is correct for your situation.
FYI - as in all filter nomenclature using alpha designations, "A" is the weakest, and the strength of the filter increases down the alphabet. Many filters offer A, B, and C strengths. Some offer a "D" strength. I don't know of any that go beyond "D".
Michael H. Cothran


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June 16, 2006

 

Mark Feldstein
  Actually Michael, some cc (color correction filters) run to the EF range. Like 81 EF.

As for the original question, is anyone speculating on whether she's shooting black and white or color negative stock? Tungsten light produces a cast to B&W images that can be subtracted using like a #12 yellow. And if it's color neg stock, just correct it out in the printing. Transparency film? Depends on whether it's daylight or tungsten type.
Take it light gang
Mark


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June 16, 2006

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Black and white panchromatic films (commonly in use today) are sensitive to red, ultraviolet, blue, and green. Nevertheless, all colors are rendered as some shade of gray. The color of the exposing light and the colors of the subject have no effect on the apparent color cast or hue present on the developed B&W film. However, the color of the exposing light as well as the colors of subject has a profound effect on how colors reproduce i.e. dark or light gray. Often, professionals are required to pay close attention when using B&W films, else some colors reproduce unexpectedly too dark or too light. Weird effect can occur particularly with regard to facial make-up. Max Factor and others became experts in the field of photographic make-up. Sometimes in advertising one will get poor separation (contrast) between adjacent colors. Serial boxes were challenging in B&W. Often the background color and/or the graphics reproduced as the same shade of gray making it impossible to read the lettering. Photographers utilized colored filters and theoretical make-up to enhance the way colors reproduced. The Wratten 11 (yellowish green) formally designated K2 and the Wratten 12 deep yellow are commonly used with B&W films. The #11 (K2) stated on the box “For correct monochromatic rendering of colored subjects on panchromatic materials”.

Alan Marcus
ammarcus@earthlink.net


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June 17, 2006

 
- Gregory LaGrange

BetterPhoto Member
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  I heard back in the days of black and white tv, actors wore light blue shirts when the character was supposed to wear white, because an actual white shirt would be too bright.
Mark's going to have to explain about tungsten color cast to black and white film. Change the contrast I get, but a color cast to black and white film, you'll have to tell me.


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June 18, 2006

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Many early pioneers observed some color in Black & White stock:

From E. Anthony’s 1849 Photo Text Book
Some instances have been given in which the rays impressed correspond with the colors of the luminous rays in a very remarkable manner. One of the most decided cases is that of the paper prepared with the fluoride of soda and nitrate of silver. Sir John Herschel was, however, the first to obtain any good specimens of photographically impressed prismatic colorations.
It was noticed by Daguerre that a red house gave a reddish image on his iodized silver plate in the camera obscura; and Mr. Talbot observed, very early in his researches, that the red of a colored print was copied of a red color, on paper spread with the chloride of silver.
In 1842, I had shown me a picture of a house in the Bowery, which had been repaired a few days previous, and in the wall a red brick left. This brick was brought out on the Daguerreotype plate of precisely the same color as the brick itself. The same artist also exhibited to me, the full length portrait of a gentleman who were a pair of pantaloons having a blue striped figure. This blue stripe was fully brought out, of the same color, in the picture.--AMER. ED.
"In 1840 I communicated to Sir John Herschel :"A paper prepared with muriate of barytes and nitrate of silver, allowed to darken whilst wet in the sunshine to a chocolate color, was placed under a frame containing a red, a yellow, a green, and a blue glass. After a week's exposure to diffused light, it became red under the red glass, a dirty yellow under the yellow glass, a dark green under the green, and a light olive under the blue.

Alan Marcus theory: Some of these observations spurred on Garbrial Lippmann 1845-1921 Nobel Prize 1908 Color Photography. This French physicist devised a system in 1891 using B&W film. No dye or pigment or colored substance of any kind involved. His glass plates were coated with extremely clear emulsion. Exposed in the camera while floating on a pool of mercury, the mercury acted as a mirror situated behind the plate. Exposure was adjusted so that light sticking the plate was too dim to expose however light struck the mercury and was reflected back into the plate from the rear. Thus the place was subjected to two light presentations. Both together exposed the plate. This created an interference pattern inside the B&W film. When viewed against a mirror, a beautiful full color image is seen. Sorry to report the system is too difficult for practically and thus remains a laboratory curiosity.

Alan Marcus
ammarcus& earthlink.net


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June 19, 2006

 
- Gregory LaGrange

BetterPhoto Member
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  Okay. That's the 1800's with mercury and people called Sir John. Does this carry over to 2006, TMax film, TMax developer, Polycontrats paper, and a color cast in black and white coming from tungsten light?


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June 19, 2006

 

Christopher A. Vedros
  Boy, it doesn't take much to get an off-topic debate started around here.

Joyce asked about correcting a yellow cast when shooting indoors. I checked her gallery and saw that she shoots film, so I tried to answer her question accordingly.

Was that so tough?


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June 19, 2006

 

Joyce Baldassarre
  I know - everyone went wayyyyyyyyyyy over my head but I did get the answer I needed and I thank everyone soooooo much!
Joyce


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June 19, 2006

 

Andrew Laverghetta
  Ok, here's what I'm thinking. I haven't looked at the camera but I assume that yes, there was probably a longer shutter speed with a flash. If you shoot in P mode on a Canon EOS camera, it will make the flash the main light but if you use somethign like TV or AV (shutter-priority or aperture-priority) it will make an exposure for ambient light, while adding a certain amount of flash, possibly some call it fill flash in this situation still.


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June 19, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  Mark:

Even in the 21st century, you still have to turn the lights out while printing B&W in your darkroom! LOL


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June 19, 2006

 
- Gregory LaGrange

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  Uhhh, nope Vedros, it wasn't tough. That's why there wasn't a need to answer the question twice. It was another point that was made within this thread that we were talking about. That can happen.


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June 20, 2006

 

Mark Feldstein
  Hey Greg: Try shooting some black and white, say either Tri-X or T-Max under tungsten light without any filtration. Then add a number 11 yellow filter and compare prints. You'll probably notice how the ones with the filter have cleaner whites and brighter highlights.
And now, I digress:

When processing your prints, add a couple of cups of Clorox bleach to your Dektol to remove any food stains, casts, odors and schmutz from the final images. For color prints, use Clorox II. Then take two Rapid Fixers and call me in the aspirin.
;>)
Mark
=============================
Do you guys know the difference between orthochromatic vs. panchromatic b&w films and the color temperature sensitivities they have?? I'm sure Greg and Chris understand the concept of altering b&w contrasts with filters? Bob, I don't think got that concept yet. Apparently his safelights are on but no one is in his darkroom. Nyuck, nyuck nyuck.


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June 20, 2006

 
- Gregory LaGrange

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  If that's what you meant by color cast, I know all that. Yellow to orange to red, higher contrast. Color cast to me is something different.


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June 20, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  Yes I am aware of the diffences in color sensitvity in color papers. However, you said specifically that tungsten lighting will give a color cast to B&W. The only way your going to get color in a B&W is to either tone it or paint it.
Yes, using color filters will alter the tonal range, but it will not create a color cast.
Mean what you say and say what you mean.


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June 20, 2006

 
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