 Erik Rasmussen |
Hyper focus in the digital world Ive been struggling to try and figure out how to properly focus landscape scenes where everything is sharp. I will be going on a trip to Yosemite National Park and San Francisco and want to be able to take the best pictures I can. However, I have struggled with the Depth of Field and Hyper Focus techniques with lenses that dont have the depth of field scale on them. I am able to explain what they are from everything i've read, but just cant seem to put the pieces together when actually taking the photograph. With the lack of scales on new digital lenses, ive read some suggestions to back off just a bit from infinity which I tried on my recent trip to Vegas and Red Rock Canyon, but still am not satisfied with the focusing. I have a DOF viewer on my Nikon D70, but its not enough to be able tell if its sharp or not. Anyone have any tips to try?? Thanks in advance
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Erik, OK, you know the term hyperfocal distance. Your problem is: Join the club: You have discovered that tables are next to useless because once the answer is known, you can’t find that exact place on the lens barrel to set the distance. You have discovered that depth-of-filed preview methods are next to useless because you can’t evaluate what you are viewing under field conditions. What you may not yet know is: Fact to keep in mind: Depth-of-filed is a span that is not split down the middle. Depth-of-field extends more to the rear than it does to the front. Stated another way: This may or may not help, I confess, I know of no practical way to set a cameras with insufficiently marked scales for the hyperfocal distance. Alan Marcus
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Bob Chance |
So does anyone know why camera/lens manufacturers removed the DOF scales? When I bought my Canon and noticed it was missing from the lenses I had bought I was very dissapointed. It was great in the 'good ole days' to be able to set the hyperfocal distance on a lens, set the camera to manual or aperature priority so the aperature wouldn't change, and take shots while driving down the road. Didn't have to worry about focusing, just point in the direction of the subject and hope a tree of telephone pole didn't pass by as I snapped the shot. I think it was a big mistake removing that scale from the lens and not subsituting it with something. They have not given us anything to work with and you can't use the DOF preview while driving. Even if they included a chart with each lens, at least that would be something.
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John P. Sandstedt |
Sure. When manufacturers started making variable zoom lenses [say the lens various from f/3.6-5.6 as it's zoomed] there was no practical way to include the hyperfocal markings possible with a fixed aperture lens. The problem started a long time ago. Contrary to what Bob said, if you have a table, set the focusing distance at the hyperfocal distance. Everything will be in "acceptable focus," one-third in front and two-thirds behing the point at which you set. If you don't have a table. set the aperture at f/16 or f/22. Check out your lanscape field and focus on something about 30-40 feet away - though not necessarily the tree or house in the distance. Experiment as you go, until you get to know your lenses. And, remember, hyperfocal distance is a property of all lenses. You'll get a stronger effect with wide angle lenses, however.
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Bob Chance |
The problem is, the tables I've come across consider hyperfocal distance to be a halfway point, not the one-third in front of and two thirds behind.-
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John P. Sandstedt |
I think you're reading the tables incorrectly. When you set the lens at the hypefocal distance, you take advantage of 1/3 in front, 2/3 in back of the plane you're focusing on. Try it - you'll like it.
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