 BetterPhoto Member |
What lighting to use for portrait photography Im hopefully starting a small business for portrait photography from home. I use a digital slr and was wondering what kind of lighting would be best to buy and what is the most affordable. Also could anyone else give me hints and tips on what other equipment I might need?
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Debby A. Tabb |
Hi Rosane, You will find a LOT of help from all those on the Studio Photography Thread. I will move it for you. you can also email me personally I will do my best to help. bare with me I am travelling trianing Photoographers out of state, and right now- truely beat. However, to a smll answer to your question, I always recommend Strobes. and you will find a lot of those starting (that partisipate on the studio thread opt for Britecks as they are tough but affordable ) I hope this helps, Debby
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Alan N. Marcus |
Indoor portraiture is best accomplished utilizing artificial light sources. These can range from ordinary household lamps to elaborate photo specialty lighting. Each design has its plus and minus. Studio lighting using incandescence lamps is bright, hot, and otherwise an unpleasant environment. By far the most popular photo lighting is the strobe. These devices operate by discharging a high voltage within a small gas filled tube. The output is brilliant and the color of the light replicates daylight. The flash occurs almost instantaneously with the application of electric power, thus the strobe is easily synchronized with the mechanical opening of the camera shutter. The duration of the flash is extremely fast; this negates subject and camera movement when the strobe is the exclusive light source. The biggest disadvantage is; since the output is brilliant and rapid, the photographer is never able to see with his own eyes, the subject illumined by this source. Thus lamp placement for flattering and artistic lighting is compromised. Studio strobe design incorporates a modeling lamp near the flash tube. This is a standard incandescent lamp that cast a weak but constant light on the subject. The modeling light replicates the appearance of the subject when illuminated by flash thus allowing the photographer to better judge the effect of lamp placement. Because of the small size of the strobe tube, it can be mounted in a verity of fixture designs. This allows great control as fixtures can be designed to output a focused beam (spot) or diverging beam (flood). Direct light can be quite harsh therefore a diffuser in the form of an umbrella like design has become popular as a softening accessory. The umbrella not only diffuses and softens but it causes the light to emanate from a broad area. Broad light sources do not fall off rapidly (get dimmer) with distance. This feature is desirable as changing lamp to subject distance would otherwise require more frequent minding of the cameras exposure settings. Modern auto setting cameras self-adjust for exposure thus the broad effect could be considered irrelevant. A modern studio would have in its inventory a main light, usually a strobe equipped with an umbrella diffuser. This lamp is placed high and usually off to the side for portraiture. Because a single lamp set-up is too harsh it is necessary to somehow fill the shadows cast by the main lamp. A reflector of white cardboard, near the camera will do but requires placement skill and usually a helper to hold same. Thus a second strobe with umbrella is usually placed close to camera to act as a fill. The fill is subordinate to the main, usually set to produce ½ the light energy at the subject distance. To round out the lighting inventory, a third lamp, without umbrellas is often placed behind the subject and allowed to play on the background. The intensity of this lamp determines the lightness or darkness of the background and eliminates shadows cast on the background by the main or fill. Hope this helps. You can start with inexpensive clamp-on standard lamps. Light color will be wrong, intensity low but many a good images has been made with such inexpensive set-ups. Good luck
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Mark Feldstein |
I don't want to put a damper on your business plans Rosanne, but I'll give you some advice based on the wisdom of experience that you may not get around here. Debby Tabb already knows my position on this. If you're planning to operate a business than run it like a business and the first piece of equipment you need to do that is a business plan that covers everything from budget considerations for marketing, a marketing plan, proposed equipment schedules, demographic survey, what you intend to charge, what your expenses will be, whether you need a business license, (the fines for operating without one can be pretty steep), county filings, BUSINESS INSURANCE, (since homeowners and renters insurance won't cover you for damage or injuries sustained through operation of a business). As for your lighting, I know Debby will disagree with me because she's actually a Britek dealer, but to shoot portraits, you can get by with shooting outdoors and using a bit of fill flash before you've got your in-home studio together. OR, you can use a window with good sunlight exposure and some fill cards. That's the way artists like Rembrandt used to work prior to Edison. OR, and what I do, is use a single monolight, (my preference is Bowens sold by bhphotovideo.com among other places). I recommend your first light has about 1000 watt seconds to give you versatility for using different types of light modifiers and flexibility for shooting things other than portraits. And sort of like Rembrandt, you can get by using table lamps for portrait lighting, especially shooting in black and white. For that, I'd recommend a #11 yellow filter to get rid of the incandescent color cast table lamps produce in b&w. The effects can be very nice and dramatic. Just don't try mixing light sources, strobes with incandescent with window light until you get a handle on your technique, or unless you're working in b&w because of color shifting from using different light temperatures. Do a business plan, lay the ground work for what you're trying to do, stay flexible, do it right and good luck. Mark
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Sharon Day |
Interesting discussion! Thanks to those of you that are willing to answer basic questions such as this. What about flash attachments? I have 4 flash attachments for various cameras. Would those work as well in place of strobes?
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Sharon !!! How ya doon? Attachments?? Do you mean light sources or light modifiers? For flashes, it depends on what kind, what sort of flashes they are, their light output and how you plan to trigger them at the same time. Are they electronic or flash bulbs ((Yes, you can still get flash bulbs, it's the powder that's not widely available). Or, are you asking about light modifiers. In that case, again it depends on what kind they are, i.e., what they're intended to do like soften, diffuse, control direction, etc. To trigger a bunch of smaller, on-camera type flash units, say mounted separately to light stands, you can use what's called a "peanut slave" plugged into the flash or the camera end of a PC cord. Let me know if you need more info on how to do that. Light modifiers for studio strobes do all those things I mentioned, although most studio strobes have modeling lamps that will help determine the direction and effect of light modifiers before shooting. Some common ones are softboxes, umbrellas, (both with various internal reflective surfaces), scrims, gobos, snoots, barn doors, flags, cutters, cookies, (no, not with milk), screens, fill cards, etc. Has this helped or confused you? Take it light.
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Sharon !!! How ya doon? Attachments?? Do you mean light sources or light modifiers? For flashes, it depends on what kind, what sort of flashes they are, their light output and how you plan to trigger them at the same time. Are they electronic or flash bulbs ((Yes, you can still get flash bulbs, it's the powder that's not widely available). Or, are you asking about light modifiers. In that case, again it depends on what kind they are, i.e., what they're intended to do like soften, diffuse, control direction, etc. To trigger a bunch of smaller, on-camera type flash units, say mounted separately to light stands, you can use what's called a "peanut slave" plugged into the flash or the camera end of a PC cord. Let me know if you need more info on how to do that. Light modifiers for studio strobes do all those things I mentioned, although most studio strobes have modeling lamps that will help determine the direction and effect of light modifiers before shooting. Some common ones are softboxes, umbrellas, (both with various internal reflective surfaces), scrims, gobos, snoots, barn doors, flags, cutters, cookies, (no, not with milk), screens, fill cards, etc. Has this helped or confused you? Take it light.
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Sharon Day |
Hi Mark, doin' good thanks and you? I have an old Canon FD system (A-1 & AE-1) and a couple of speedlight flash units for those. Both are Vivitar. One the 5600 and one the 5200. I'd have to refer to the owners manuals for them both but I believe the flash output can be adjusted some. I don't know how much though. I do have one little remote slave that works nicely. I've considered trying them for playing around with portraits of my dog since I'm just not into portrait photography. I kinda hate going to the expense of getting strobes just to get a pic or two of my dog LOL. As always I find your input very informative and interesting! Thanks
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Mark Feldstein |
Wellllllllll, get a couple of peanut slaves for those guys, and maybe just dink around with positioning them (bribing the dog to stay in the "zone of illumination". I find chicken strips available at Costco work well for this purpose). Using a flash meter will accurately determine your exposure no matter what their output. Just check for average exposure values and any hot spots, one light at a time then collectively like any other studio strobe arrangement. That oughtta do'er. Use whatever modifiers you might have to soften or diffuse the light. Even a handkerchief will work as a diffuser. (Preferably a clean, white handkerchief) :<0) Have fun. Regards to the dog too!!! Mark
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Sharon Day |
Thanks, Mark! I think I will try that. I just need to get another peanut slave and a clean white handkerchief LOL. The dog is pretty well behaved. I just tell her to sit and she sits until she's told I'm done :o)! We had horses for 17 years when we were younger. I still miss them sometimes. The only finalist I have of a horse is an image of my mare taken many years ago with the Canon A-1. Thanks again,
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Mark Feldstein |
Always a pleasure Sharon. We've got ...let's see....two golden retrievers, (Jake and Louie are brothers), Bodie is an Ausie, and two Peruvian Pasos, Ally Oop and Nikon F2. :>) Latah.
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Debby A. Tabb |
Oh boy, having to make my position clear again..... Debby is not a " Britek Dealer" per say. she will deal as a britek dealer when people are intrested, instead of having them go to ebay dealers that put together kits that are part good and part crap. I tell everyone I prefer Photogenic lighting. I will deal Briteks, to custom build kits for people here. So many here prefer starting with them. and that's not aways I bad idea. they are a easier light to get used to, and afford when starting out. Best wishes, Debby
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Mark Feldstein |
You know Deb, it's OKAY to be a Britek dealer, they're just not my preference for lighting. Your web site says you're a Britek dealer, you offer to sell people Britek lighting, you promote Britek lighting and to me, that leads to the conclusion you're per se (in itself) a Britek Lighting Dealer. It's kinda like being a car dealer except saying you're not a car dealer when no one around you at the moment wants to buy a car. Or, in another way, like being "a little bit pregnant". Either you are or aren't. It's okay though, really. But you really ought to get a distributorship for Speedotron, Bowens or maybe consider Norman. Lights that pack a punch. And I agree in that when people shop E-Bay they really have to be aware of what they're looking for, what they're being offered, and how much to spend for what equipment. Otherwise, in a manner of speaking, they could get (shall we say) "pregnant"?? LOL !!! Have a lovely day Deb. Mark
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Debby A. Tabb |
Mark, I have a few web sites, that is a simple one that I give to people on Photography sites I visit. It is the easiest way fr some to get a hold of me. If you really knew ANY THING AT ALL about me, you would know that I always tell people I prefer Photogenic. Britek Is a exceptable way for people to get started, and it was for those here that I even agreed to get involed. Britek asked me if I was intrested after being a sponcer in my CDs ( SO IS PHOTOGENIC AND ALIEN BEE) I don't know ANY USED CAR DEALERS that make ZERO off selling a product. I MAKE ZERO. So I see myself as nothing more then a go betwen. I really Am tired of your evaluations . Oh and by the way- the calumet /Bowens you like so much, They aren't a sponcer after they asked if I liked thier products and I said " Well, I have a Kit , and after the 3rd time of use it started to fall apart- needing many parts replaced. And the kits you sell aren't really set up well, why not sell a kit, that includes a suitable backlight for the money you charge?" They couldn't handle that. I said the same thing to Alien Bee, They said thank you we will consider that and sent a AD. Thats a compan that IS willing to consider the benifit of it's clients. Debby
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Debby A. Tabb |
Oh and Mark, It says right on my web site, : We don't have to talk about Britek lights, I am glad to help.."
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Sharon Day |
Debby & Mark, I can't stress how much I appreciate your input when questions are posted. BOTH of you have much to offer. Thank you for always being so willing to help out those in need of answers! BP's Q&A wouldn't be nearly as informative as it is if it lost either of you! Thanks again and happy shooting!
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Mark Feldstein |
Thanks Sharon !!! As always, my pleasure. Honest !!! And a continual pleasure to respond to you too Deb. But do us a favor please. Kindly stop with the doublespeak. I assume you're old enough to know the difference between a a rep, a dealer, a sponsor oh and a product supporter or fan. If you don't know, call their marketing director and I'm sure they'll explain it to you. All I'm saying is if you're NOT a dealer, take it off your web site, and I don't care how many web sites you have or what their purpose is. Remember, credibility is very important in this business. Get the picture?
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Debby A. Tabb |
My credibility speaks for itself. ANy one who has read or delt with anything from me knows that. thanks,
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