 Rob McCullough |
Indoor college graduation
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Samuel Smith |
welcome rob, you need a faster lens espically when handholding in low light.run your iso up to 800 if you haven't already,or maybe even 1600.shutter priority might get you faster shutter speeds which is what you need. hth,sam
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Rob McCullough |
Uh... what do you mean by a faster lens? Is the lens I have not that good? The lens I'm using came as a kit so I really didn't know weather it was good or not. Being a beginner I just found how to set a few things manually and iso was one of them. I see now I should have been in the exposure mode P setup but I didn't know how to do all that at the time. Thanks for responding to my post.
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Samuel Smith |
well rob,you got caught in some hype.from what i've read you have an awesome camera.kit lens might be crap for what you want.boy rob I argue here all the time. you got the camera and lense what's wrong? ok,our eyes see what we see as good or fair lighting.the camera can't.it needs faster eyes. kind of a shame that we get taken in. cameras need lenses that communicate espically in low light. so in that situation you need a lense that is at least f2.8 .yours might start out at f3.5 and at your zoom at 55 it might be f5.not sure.f5.6. it's going to set a slower shutter speed to record the image.handheld it's going to turn out like what you have. your lens is not going to help in that situation even on a tripod.it's just not going to happen. i don't think even at 1600 iso,but maybe,you'll get decent pics.try it.might be a little grainy but acceptable. geez rob it is going to be a point and shoot until you learn a lot more. so do you know anything about post processing?don't tell anyone.i mean you can't tell anyone when you do but that's how you get there. i am so sorry and ashamed that I really can't help you.that's why I came here.yet I haven't learned enough. anyway your lens will not give you those pics. i will be glad to answer any more of your questions.and simple if I can. let me know,sam
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Samuel Smith |
hey rob, i didn't mean to say the kit lens was a waste.in regular shooting,you'll be fine. ok,this venue is the worst scenerio with action and low light.i'm working on over ten years of learning with my equipment.hobby. i was just saying your lens will not give you the 1/250 or even better 1/500 shutter speed,to actually capture the photo you want. so if your sitting there thinking that you've seen pictures taken by your camera that were so good?and the salesman or saleswoman said this camera is the best there is,don't buy a used car! no camera is the best.... so the salesperson left you out to dry? ya think ? i am not riding you on the trail of confusion. i can't get the pics you want,ah money. well rob,run that thing up to 1600 iso and try again,they will be grainy but probably ok. here we are,sam
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Rob McCullough |
Hey Sam, Since I started the post I've gotten a little more into the settings of my camera. I've played around with the ISO and found that it does make a difference. No one told the camera was the best or the lens was the best, it was just the lens that came with the camera kit and it came down to price, I was on a budget. You can check out my p&S photo shooting with the pictures I've posted on BestPhoto.com most all of them were captured with a p&s camera. I haven't posted any with the DSLR yet. Anyway, the f stop on a lens didn't make much sense to me but now I see the difference. The other problem I found is that the length of the lens is not as good as I thought. I guess that is what you call it anyway I can't zoom in very close. So you live and learn, I should have waited a bit longer and purchased the kit that had the faster lens but it was several hundreds more. Anyway thanks for your remarks and maybe I'll get something posted with the DSLR soon. Looks like you like to shoot sun sets and sun raises, I have a few of thoughs also. Later Rob
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Rob McCullough |
One more question about lens speed. What in the following discription would signal me the speed of a lens? Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm F/3.5-5.6G DX ED VR This is not the lens I have, the one that came with the camera was Nikon AF-s DX Zoom-Nikkor 1-55mm F/3.5-5.6G ED. The other choice I had was the first one I listed but it was like $400.00 for the kit which now that I look up the price of the one above, paying $400 more in the kit would have been a deal. Thanks Rob
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Andrew Laverghetta |
The speed of a lens has to do with how much light it can let in at a single point in time. It's measured by the maximum aperture the iris can open to. It's like the pupil in your eye. (maybe iris was the correct word in this situation). The part the shows the aperture on that lens you listed was F/3.5-5.6. The smaller the number (3.5) the more light it can let in. You'll notice in that spread of numbers, 5.6 is a larger number than 3.5. That means it lets in less light. Now the reason why there are two numbers for this specific lens is because it's a zoom lens. It gets longer, stuff happens inside, that means that it just can let in as much light when it gets closer to 200mm....when you zoom in further. Some lenses keep a constant maximum aperture and cost a bit more than the ones that allow them maximum aperture to change. The fastest that you will see a zoom lens go is around f/2.8. Prime lenses, lenses that don't zoom, have open up to f/1.0 at the most and usually 1.4 or 1.8. F/1.0 is extremely fast and those lenses cost a TON for what they do. Making sure that you understand focal lengths, that lens that came with your camera the 18-55mm, that means that if you stand a normal distance away from somebody you will probably be able to get a full body shot, and then zoom in for a head and shoulders (about) shot. It's a standard zoom. I've really noticed that when the advanced digital cameras came out, people seemed to start expecting a crazy zoom range. Also, the further you zoom in, the faster shutter speed you'll need to use. That's because it's just impossible to hold most lenses stead at even 1/30 second, even though that seems pretty fast. Feel free to contact me through my premium gallery if you have any questions for me. Sometimes things are a bit confusing but it's just that some people tend to give out a lot of stuff at one time, like I might have, but I tried to explain it here. What I like to do when I shoot in low light, is to shoot in AV or A mode. Whichever one Nikon uses as opposed to Canon or other manufacturers. I turn the dial to A (aperture priority) where you can set the aperture to the lowest number, like 3.5 or so, and the camera will select the shutter speed that would be appropriate. But, if that shutter speed gets too low, you'll get blur either from the subject, for from natural body sway and such. In that case, you can set it to S or T or whichever one your camera has (shutter priority) and set it to something like 1/50 second. The aperture will most likely blink and you're pictures will probably be somewhat dark, but hopefully they will be decently sharp and you will just need to lighten them up somehow. Also, doesnt' the ISO on the D50 go up to 3200 or some setting higher than 1600? Hope this helps! again, feel free to contact me with questions.
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Oh! Also, after reading another response to a similar lighting question here, I would suggest you check out different metering modes. That means different ways the camera detects how much light is in the scene. Usually there's a centerweighted mode that will measure the light and place most of the priority on the center of the frame so the center should be at good exposure (not too bright, not too dark). If you're sitting way up high, the floor is lit but the crowd isn't. If you are using the kind of metering that adjusts for the whole scene, it will include the dark crowd and try to make them bright as well. Also, your camera may have spot meter (but I don't really know). People like this a lot as well because it's even more precise. You are almost aiming at your subject with a single dot were you can be very accurate in telling the camera where you're placing priority. Also, read up on exposure lock for your camera. That will help you in this situation or this kind of situation. This will hopefully apply to not just ceremonies, but anything else where there is low light. Also, if you have any friends with high school grads coming up, you could try out some of these techniques on them since I dont' think most high schools have graduated yet.
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Samuel Smith |
hey thanks for stepping in andrew.great explanation.for us. em rob, that lens you mentioned is kinda expensive.but with vr,vibration reduction,does help a lot when handholding and low light. hey rob,before you buy any lens,please ask some people here.or me.and the 400 more bucks would have been a great deal. but yet here we are. now reread andrews post,and let it sink in a bit.in my haste I may have went a little over.my teaching skills are incorigable.i know ,but can't convey. lighting situations?that is the key in all your shooting. and yet andrew is offering knowledge that applies in certain situations.ah to master these is the goal. are we there yet,sam
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