Robyn Gwilt |
ANOTHER Lens question/dilhema!! I'm thinking of trading in my Sigma 28-300 F3.5-6.3 and finally getting myself a Canon L (!!!) IS USM F2.8 70-200. Reason being, I really want the 2.8, and the IS, and need to stop messing around and take the plunge! Question is, what about the 28-300 F3.5, is it IS? Do you lose sharpness because it covers a wider range? I want something thats tack-sharp, and I can use in low light. I also enjoy wildlife, so the 200mm on my 350d will become a 480, which should be adequate? Are converters worth it (never used one, don't know how). I know it sounds like I'm trying to cover all ranges (maybe I am), but it seems to be a very popular lens. Would I be able to use it at a wedding? Is it quiet when zooming? Is it too much of a zoom (would I have to step back too far for things like family portraits etc) I figure if I am far back, the IS will allow me to zoom in comfortably to get the cropped shot anyway? Sorry to ramble, but its a lot of money, and I can't afford to mess up. Thanks
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robert G. Fately |
Robyn, I'm a Nikon owner, but even so I can tell you the 70-200 is worlds better than the 28-300. The 70-200 f2.8 is a lens designed for professional use (and priced accordingly), while the Sigma you have is more of a "consumer" type lens for regular folks ona budget. First, that Sigma lens dows not have Image Stabilization, and, as you know is slower. Also, the 70-200 is optically superior - gives sharper images - than the 28-300 - thanks to the use of better glass as well as the fact that, as a telephoto-only zoom with a 3x ratio it requires less compromise than does a wide-angle to tele zoom with a 10X zoom ratio. Sigma makes some fine lenses, I have their 12-24, 120-300 f2.8 and their 180 Macro myself, but the 28-300 is just in a different class. The Canon lens probably uses their USM focusing technology, which is both fast and silent (Nikon licenses it out as their VR technology, and Sigma calls their version HSM). I've used my 70-200 Nikkor at weddings - the fast speed allows for shallow DOF so the subject stands out from the background as well as for higher shutter speeds when flash is not possible. Teleconverters can be quite good or pretty bad - depending on what you buy. No doubt the offerings from Canon are optimized and would be best (and most costly), but the high-level Tokina pro series has gotten a lot of good reviews. The lower priced stuff out there, though, is probably not worth it. Hope that helps - sounds like you're catching "CAS"; what we in Nikon-land call "NAS" - Nikon Acquisition Syndrome
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Jon Close |
Canon's EF 28-300 f/3.5-5.6L IS USM is an IS lens. The 28-300L is not as sharp and does not have as wide a maximum aperture as the EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM. It's also ~$500 more expensive. You can get virtually the same maximum reach by getting the EF 1.4x tele-extender with the 70-200. You'd still have IS, still have a faster f/4 effective maximum aperture, and still be less than the cost of the 28-300L.
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Jon Close |
oops, forgot about the rest of the question... Re - using at a wedding - the Canon L USM zooms are virtually silent in zooming and focusing. However, 70-200 on a 350D is a very tight crop suitable for 1/2 body or head/shoulder portraits. A far more useful range for weddings with the 350D would be 17-55 or 24-70. Canon has introduced a new EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM for use on the 300D/350D/20D/30D cameras that would seem to be a perfect fit. Also the EF 24-70 f/2.8L USM is a top quality lens. It doesn't have IS, but that is less necessary in that focal length range.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks Bob and Jon your input is really appreciated. Jon, I also have the Sigma 17-70 F2.8-4.5, and I'm hoping one day to also upgrade my camera (!! CAS), so feel that end of the spectrum is covered, and in the event of getting a 20D (or even a 5D, should the price drop enough!!!!) I would then have a really good lens in the 70-200. That was my thinking - I've seen that all the pro's seem to use it as a lens of choice, and others I've spoken to seem really happy with it. I guess on a 20D it wouldn't make a difference hey, but on a full frame camera it would. Do you lose an F stop with the teleconverter? Thanks again.
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Jon Close |
Yes, the 1.4x teleconverter costs 1 stop in aperture. 70-200 f/2.8 + 1.4x is effectively 98-280 f/4.
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Bob Chance |
Robyn: Jon & Bob both gave excellent answers and info but they failed to clarify one thing for you. This whole focal length multiplier thing on DSLRs' using sensors smaller than a full frame. There really is no such thing as a magnification factor. A 200mm lens is going to produce the same image size, regardless what camera it's on. Bob
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks Bob C - so really it means that your crop is tighter, not really that your zoom is longer? So possibly as Jon said, with a 70-200 I'll be too tight, therefore have to stand too far back, but with the IS, would this not be ok? I wish I could get hold of one of these to play with!! Anyone know why the manufacturers didn't just make the damn sensors full frame from the start, and be done with it???? I mean what man in a lab coat said 'lets really mess with their heads and all their existing and potential equipment??"
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Andrew Laverghetta |
This is just a plug on the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L USM lens. It's fantastic. Somebody I worked with at a college paper had this on their Canon 1D for photo journalism and got some very sharp photos. It costs around $1100. I have the Sigma version which cost around $430 and has the same f/2.8 constant aperture but it's not quite as sharp around 2.8 but get's better as it get's around f/8 or so. So...about the focal length thing. The way that I look at it.... I have a 200mm f/2.8 lens. I say that it gives me the angle of view of a 320mm lens but it still gives me the depth of field of a 200mm lens. That being said, I believe it IS acting as a 320mm lens with slightly most depth of field (but still not very much at all at 200mm). You can argue with me all you want, but until you get in a tight spot or until you have a close subject with a 200mm lens on a camera like the 20D or similar dslr with a smaller aps (approx) sized sensor, it's fooey to say still imagine it as a 200mm lens and not 320mm. I also look at is as taking that smaller center chunck that the sensor captures, and stretching it out to fill a full frame. The only real time when I don't think it's safe to pretend that a lens is 38mm instead of 24mm, or 28mm instead of 17mm is when you are using a focal length shorter than 100mm because the depth of field is going to be more than what you think it should be. I know you know your stuff Bob, but I don't agree with the way you say that a multiplier doesn't exist. It's multiplying the focal length by 1.6 (or 1.5 or other) to get the field of view that the sensor with capture since that is how most of us associate this stuff. Not that you would use a lens that recorded a tighter crop, but that you want to use a lens that's around 300mm so you go for 200mm since the resulting image (which is really all that matters) is going to look nearly the same with a 320mm lens (if there were such a thing) except for very slightly more depth of field. Not really complicated but people use weird ways of naming it...my opinion.
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Jon Close |
>>"Anyone know why the manufacturers didn't just make the damn sensors full frame from the start, and be done with it????"<< It is was a compromise between cost and performance. Canon does make a couple of DSLRs with 35mm-sized sensors, but the cost of making those sensors is exponentially greater. The pro-bodied 1Ds is ~$7000. The more modest 5D is $3000, still ~2.5x the price of a 20D/30D. So the manufacturers introduced DSLRs with smaller sensors about the size of APS-C film frame to get the selling price under $1500.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Jon I know there are (the very expensive!) full frames, but if they'd just made them full frame in the first place then they wouldn't have been so expensive (based on volume)and they wouldn't have to tool up for 2 different types of sensors (this is a brunettes logic you understand!!!!) In 5 years time we'll all have full sensor camera's and the point and shoots will be a thing of the past, in fact they're being replaced by cell phone camera's as we speak!! But I digress :) Thanks for all the comments - always good to pick informed brains!
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Andrew Laverghetta |
I just had the idea....If they would have started out with a 6mp full frame sensor, that would have spread out those pixels further, therefore not capturing as much detail. Of course, this is just a hypothesis, but it seems like it might be a possible reason. It would be substituting wide angle for decreased image detail when people could either just buy wider angle lenses, make do with decently wide angle lenses, or benefit those who don't do too much wide angle shooting like sports photogs and portrait photogs. Also, if you were to just spread out those 6 or 8 million pixels which is the most cost effective to start out, you would have to add more pixels which would drive the cost up. Personally, I don't feel like I need insanely wide angle lenses for my style of photography. Sometimes it's nice to have that wider angle, but I don't think it's necessarily unless you want to become a "jack-of-all-trades" like a lot of people try to become by buying wide angle lenses, zoom lenses, prime lenses, zoom telephoto lenses, macro lenses and all that stuff. Could this be a possible reason? PS, have you ever tried to print a photo from a cellphone? hahaha
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Robyn Gwilt |
Yea, thats why I bought an SLR LOL - but.... don't knock them, I use mine during the day, when clients need furniture/chairs etc., to match in with existing stuff, very handy!!
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Christopher A. Vedros |
Robin, Just in case you're still considering the Canon 28-300mm zoom, I'd like to point out that it is a BIG lens. Compared to your Sigma 28-300mm, the Canon version is twice as long and three times the weight. Personally, I think it's too big for an all-purpose walk-around lens. I think the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens will be a good addition to your bag. Many people pair it up with a 24-70mm lens, but your 17-70mm lens should complement it nicely. I have the Sigma versions of the 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses. I keep the 24-70mm on my camera most of the time. The camera won't fit in my shoulder bag with the 70-200mm mounted, as it is also a large lens. Chris
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks Chris (like your new Lego btw :) Good point, as it is I've got tennis elbow from picking up/schlepping the bag etc (on both elbows!!) My Sigm 24-70 which I was so excited to get, was obviously a duff one, and they took it back, and I landed up replacing it with the 17-70, I think I like it (!!!) How many meters away would I have to stand to get a full body shot with the 70-200?
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Bob Chance |
Well Andrew: You certainly have the right to disagree. But whether you agree or not, a 100mm lens is going to project the same image circle and give the same magnification regardless of what camera it's mounted on. Bob
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Bob Chance |
Actually Andrew, You don't have to take my word for it. But for a good explanation copy the following link and paste it in your browser: http://photoworkshop.com/canon/CMOS/fullframe-e/angle.html A box will come up asking if you want to install a language, just click cancel and the Canon screen should launch explaining the differences. Hope this helps. Bob
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Slim Brady |
2.8 is very artistic looking, the wider you go the better. 1.2 is the best ,but your focus plane is a blade of grass.
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Christopher A. Vedros |
Bob, I agree with you on your explanation of the crop factor, but I also agree with Andrew. In theory, your example of the projector remaining stationary and the screen changing sizes is similar to how a lens projects it's image onto a full frame sensor and a reduced frame sensor. But in reality, the important part is the image that is recorded by that sensor. Take an image from a full-frame sensor camera and compare it side-by-side with an image taken with the same lens on a reduced frame sensor camera, and view both at 100%. The subject in the second image WILL be magnified. If you print each image as a 4x6, the subject in the second image again WILL be magnified. So while saying that the focal length is not changed may be technically correct, I think it is also correct to say that a 100mm lens on my Digital Rebel will give me an image similar to the image I would get with a 160mm lens on a full-frame camera. After all, the image is the goal. Why argue over the semantics of how the image is produced? Chris
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Robyn Gwilt |
:) I'm just listening to all this (lost me a while ago!! :)
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Yeah, I like the way you describe it Bob, I wasn't disagreeing with what you were saying as much as how effective it is in the long run when you are working on a print that would be printed the same size regarless of which size the sensor was. Don't worry, I'll get to the topic of the thread here sometime. Geez, now I forgot what else I was going to say...OH yea! I have a Canon EOS 35mm rebel and while the coverage still isn't 100% in terms of what the sensor actually, captures, I see that the viewfinder is actually cropping what you're seeing and that they're technically the same size when you see the subject looking through the two viewfinders, just that unless you're really meticulous and you know what the viewfinder on a full frame camera (film or digital) looks like, most people won't notice that the viewfinder is that much smaller. My 20D looks closer to the size of a full frame camera than the viewfinder in some of Nikon's cameras like the D70 and D50 that I've looked at. That was the only time when I could really notice the the viewfinder was smaller and made it a little harder to manually focus.
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Bob Chance |
Chris: I would not like to say that I was arguing with anybody on anything. I just hate to see people being misled by the whole focal length factor that the camera industry has devised to explain the difference any given lens will have between full frame or a smaller than full frame sensor.
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Slim Brady |
Experiment. Take two tape measures to line up hidth and width and line up some numbers and see what you get as the final product. Give yourself a little room to play, don't crop exactly in camera unless you have a full sensor.
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Bob Chance |
That may work Brady except you also have to take into account the viewfinders crop also. Viewfinders, depending on camera, usually don't show the entire frame that the film or sensor sees. There are very few cameras actually whose viewfinders show 100% of the actual picture.
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Craig m. Zacarelli |
Hey Robyn, I just recently got the 70-200 F4 "L" and while its not got the IS it is super sharp! I love it sooo much. Amazon had it for $540.00 I believe and with the 40$ canon rebate. or was it $580.00 with 40 bucks rebate.. at any rate it was under 6 hundred and its awesome.. I wish I could afford the IS as I hate dragging the mono pod around but for the price of pristine glass and the quality of the shots.. I will stick the monopod in my ear if I have to.. its that good!
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Robyn Gwilt |
Craig - I've just had a visual of you and the monopod!! Enjoy :) Is it very heavy? Brady - I like the idea of taking a pic of the tape measure - that should give me a good idea of all this crop/viewfinder/view/magnification stuff. Its quite confusing working through all this!
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Craig m. Zacarelli |
yes its kinda heavy but its not too too heavy. I also got an Opteka grip for my XT and it really helps balance out the camera out allot! About the crop factor.... forget crop factors.. its not worth it because it dont matter, if you never heard of it, you wouldnt care...right? lol the long and short is, the image dont get closer.. the crop just gets tighter. The subject stays the same size, you just dont get whats on the outer edges.. like sticking a 5x7 print into a 4x6 frame... youd have to trim it off, but the subject will stay the same (providing its still inside the frame and you didnt cut it off...lol) Craig-
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Oliver Anderson |
Robyn, I use the 70-200 2.8 IS and (non IS) all I can say is buy a monopod if you lugging this around for more than an hour. I shot the Long Beach Grand Prix without a monopod and it definately took its toll. For the AMA race next weekend I purchased a monopod in order to save my back.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks for that Oliver! I've already got tennis elbow - my camera/bag etc is pertty heavy, and I'm just a mere woman you know :) Jokes aside - trying to find actual weight of this lens, but can't, anyone know? Tks
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Andrew Laverghetta |
If you can find the lens you're looking for on bhphotovideo.com you can find the weight. The 70-200 f2.8 IS with tripod collar is 3.5lbs without IS is 2.8lbs, the picture had a tripod collar but it doesn't say that it comes with one so that's the weight without a tripod collar. The 70-200 f/4.0 is 1.56 lbs and doesn't come with a tripod collar. I think you can buy one at B&H for around $115 which is insane but it's a very good thing to get. There's the sigma version that a lot of people love. It's without IS but has a max ap of 2.8. It's optical quality probably isn't up to the Canon's level but I'll assume it's pretty good for around $800. If I was thinking about getting the IS lens, I would probably get the sigma one for $800 and then use the other money for Canon's 28-135mm IS USM because I'm already looking at that lens for portraits and the IS. Hope this helps! PS, honestly, do you notice a perspective different from 200 and 320 mm? especially 300 and 480 or so? I really only notice it when I'm at anything lower than 100mm like I said before.
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Craig m. Zacarelli |
With my 70-200mm f4 L on my XT, the whole thing, with grip and two bats in it weighs allmost 3 pounds. Not bad.. I usually use my Monopod so when im walking and not shooting, I carry it over my shoulder like some WW1 Dough boy! its not too bad, but as I stated, I hate lugging the tripod or mono pod.. esp if I go out to some event like a state fair or something. Craig-
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