 Jane Sheers |
Fill Flash with Backlight So far, I have been playing it safe and finding soft light in open shade and using a reflector. I would like to get into using fill flash but I'm not sure how to meter. If I am having the subjects positioned with the sun behind them and I don't want the background blown out, how do I meter to properly fill them with flash and still look natural?
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BetterPhoto Member |
Hi Jane, What kind of camera are you using? Most of today's cameras have fill flash settings. This includes point and shoots. If you are using an old camera (my mainline camera is a Minolta X700), there are formulas. If I'm using my Maxxum 5D, I let the camera do the work. On my X700, I will meter off the background and find settings that will allow me to shoot at the flash sync speed (1/60 sec). I use the manual setting so the camera won't try to reset itself. This has worked very well for me. Have fun and keep shooting, Mark H.
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Jane Sheers |
Hi Mark. I'm using a Nikon D-70. I shoot all my portrait stuff on manual settings. When I've tried using flash, I have it set on TTL and find that there is to much flash and it looks unnatural. Whenever I do natural light, I meter for the highlight side. I'm new to this and just not sure how to meter a background such as an ocean view for example with sun behind the subject. Do I point my meter to other way for that reading?
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BetterPhoto Member |
You may want to try taking your readings off a grey card. I'm still learning on my digital, so I'm mixing both what digital I've learned with what I know from my film camera. Have fun and keep shooting, Mark H.
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Jane Sheers |
Thanks. Mark. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm just heading out the door for a shoot. If any turn out I'll post them on my gallery. Wish me luck! Jane
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BetterPhoto Member |
Best of luck to you, Jane. Have fun and keep shooting, PS Keep practicing. You'll get it.
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Pete H |
Hello Jane, There really is no "magic" formula when calculating fill flash exposure to do what you are seeking. That being said, the D-70 has a wonderful attribute; it will sync at 1/500th. Pretty good for a 35mm. You are on the right track shooting full manual. I would suggest this, especially if you do not want the background blown out: Spot meter your subjects face ... meter the brightest area. Use this setting. The D-70 can vary its flash from full to 1/16th. Experiment a little from full to 1/16th output. You should be able to find a pleasing middle ground. The biggest problem with fill flash outdoors in bright sunlight is that your subject looks flat. A bounce card will help soften these shadow areas. I'm assuming you are using the built-in flash? If you go with the SB-600 or 800, your results will be considerably better as you don't need to be as close.
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Jane Sheers |
Thanks Peter. I do have the sb-800 but I'm just so afraid of flash that I haven't really learned much about my flash. I tried reading the manual but I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. I'll be giving it another shot today. Yesterday wasn't to successful. I ended up going back to the reflector again to make sure I got some good images. I find it hard to see what my results are when it's so bright outside because it is very hard to see in the viewfinder. I guess I'll have to do the tests in my backyard so I can download the images right away to see what's working and what's not. So should I be setting the flash on TTL with a minus setting or manual? I have not idea how to use the flash on manual but I'm sure that would be the best way. How do you do it? Jane
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Pete H |
YOu want to use the SB-800 on manual. TTL will properly expose the subject, but will pretty much ignore the background. In Full manual, simply begin dialing down the flash power.
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Jane Sheers |
Thank you Peter. I'll give it a try today. I do like to be able to have more control so manual will be better for me to learn.
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Bob Chance |
Hi Jane: Pete gives the best answer, obviously familiar with your equipment.
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Jane Sheers |
Thanks Robert. I'll give it a try.
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Justin G. |
Spot meter your subjects face ... meter the brightest area. Use this setting. Pete you always seem to give great information, which is why I'm hesitant to question, or at least to find out why. Anyways my question...if the scene is backlit, the foreground is going to be silhouetted. Maybe not so much to the human eye but for a digital camera, very much so. If you meter off the skin (which is probably darkened due to the backlit situation and darker than 18%) the camera is going to bring up the exposure to get this to 18%. While doing this it's going to blow the backlit scene with the limited dynamic range. Anyways my question, suggestion (looking for approval) would be to shoot the background quickly. Check your LCD, and if the image looks good...keep those settings. Then she should meter her flash for roughly the same aperture as the reading depending on what she wants. Example...she meters the sky @ f/4 and gets a reading of 1/125. She then sets the camera in manual at f/4 and 1/125 and then she'll meter her flash for a reading of f/4 and should be just about set to go. Check your LCD and see if you need more foreground light. Also if shooting a sunset, the light is goign to be very warm and her flash is probably balanced for 5500K so her background will be warm while her foreground will be cooler looking. I would suggest bumping your WB up to about 6000K (that's what I've been reading). Anyways you can do this later when processing the raw files. so does all that make sense and does it sound correct or am I way off?
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Justin G. |
Spot meter your subjects face ... meter the brightest area. Use this setting. Pete you always seem to give great information, which is why I'm hesitant to question, or at least to find out why. Anyways my question...if the scene is backlit, the foreground is going to be silhouetted. Maybe not so much to the human eye but for a digital camera, very much so. If you meter off the skin (which is probably darkened due to the backlit situation and darker than 18%) the camera is going to bring up the exposure to get this to 18%. While doing this it's going to blow the backlit scene with the limited dynamic range. Anyways my question, suggestion (looking for approval) would be to shoot the background quickly. Check your LCD, and if the image looks good...keep those settings. Then she should meter her flash for roughly the same aperture as the reading depending on what she wants. Example...she meters the sky @ f/4 and gets a reading of 1/125. She then sets the camera in manual at f/4 and 1/125 and then she'll meter her flash for a reading of f/4 and should be just about set to go. Check your LCD and see if you need more foreground light. Also if shooting a sunset, the light is goign to be very warm and her flash is probably balanced for 5500K so her background will be warm while her foreground will be cooler looking. I would suggest bumping your WB up to about 6000K (that's what I've been reading). Anyways you can do this later when processing the raw files. so does all that make sense and does it sound correct or am I way off?
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Pete H |
Hi all; First off; I want to agree entirely with what Robert is saying. Color balance; Jane, is a knarly little problem that faces many portrait shooters who are not shooting in a controlled environment (i.e) The Studio. Ok..Next..Justin..I agree with what you are doing as well. My only comment was that there is no "magic Formula" to make this come out perfect every time as the variables are many..especially near the ocean in Jane's case, where water reflection will wreak havoc on color temp. My advice to Jane was only to simplify matters given all her variables. To do it professionally, and I did shoot a bridal portrait on a beach last year, I brought scrims, gobos, diffusers of various sizes, reflectors and power packs, 2 umbrellas and a large softbox. I would generally NEVER go to this trouble, but the bride is a professional model..need I say more? LOL That was an extreme case..and yes..I even used a colorimeter. :) Metering for "Highlights" with digital is just simply good (general) advice as we all know digital does not handle well anything over 240 in the RGB scale. "Meter for highlights, develop for shadow. " Film is just the opposite. It is NOT a hard and fast rule..Your method will work as well Justin. This is the wonderful thing about digital cameras..they have a delete key! Gotta' love it. As far as the 18% gray scale..well; that's another thread. Camera firmware, meter algorithms etc...so much variance. When it comes right down to it, when I face an unknown, a little experimentation will out do any technical jargon..and with a lot of experience, we can throw away most formulas, graphs, gray cards etc... All the Best to everyone... Pete
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Justin G. |
Ok cool I was just wondering. Thanks again for the detailed info, all makes sense!
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Jane Sheers |
Holy doodle. You guys know a lot. I'm going to print this all out to take with me so I can remember it...and I will experiment. That's why I love digital. Thank you all. Jane
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