 Rom A.G. |
Macro lenses Macro lenses are designed for close-ups of small subjects such as insects, flowers, and other natural objects, as well as for flat, inanimate objects such as stamps and coins. I find it's much easier to take such close-up shots with a P&S rather than an SLR outdoors. Using a zoom lens you could take the same pics. Macro lenses are more suitable for studio photography. I am _not_ saying the photo quality is better; just that it's _easier_. You could preview on the LCD with the camera close to the object.
|
|||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
Christopher A. Vedros |
Rom, Your picture of the turtle is nice, but I think it's more of a close-up snapshot than a macro shot. Macro shots are usually much closer. Many P&S cameras do a pretty good job of autofocusing on close subjects like your turtle. And using -2 exp. comp. was a good move to keep the flash from overexposing the subject. Not all P&S cameras can do that. But true Macro photography, like many of the insect images people post here, are usually done at an even closer distance, with more magnification. At closer distances, manual focus is almost always more reliable than autofocus. There may be P&S cameras out there with an LCD that is sharp enough to allow critical manual focus for macro shots, but I haven't seen one yet. As for the flash on a P&S compared to an SLR, you're assuming that macro shots always use on-camera flash. I think the opposite is true, you will get better results with off-camera lighting. Chris
|
|||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
BetterPhoto Member |
That's a cute turtle, but those aren't macro shots. Macro shots of the turtle would be more like just the face, giving a much more detailed view. Try and see if you can get any closer to a subject before you decide that macro lenses aren't needed. As for the flash, I opt for a Vivitar ringlight. With mine, the flash housing mounts to the hotshoe, with the flash elements set up in a circle that mounts to the filter threads on the end of the lense. The two are connected via cable. This system works very well for me. Have fun and keep shooting,
|
|||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
David A. Bliss |
This is something I posted on another forum, and since I didn't feel like rewriting it, I will post it here! ;-) I have seen the word "macro" used a lot, and I think it is important to clearly define what makes a photo macro. A photo is considered macro when there is a one to one ratio on the film. This ratio is written as x:y, where x=size of film, and y=size of subject. Originally, a photo was considered macro when the subject had a 1:1 ratio on a 35mm negative (or slide). A typical 35mm negative is 24mmx36mm. This means, it is considered a macro when you take a picture of a penny, and when you put the penny on the negative, they are the same size. Definitions change with technology. Any more, it is considered a macro when it has a 1:1 ratio on a 4x6 print. I personally feel that this is a little too loose, but hey, who am I to argue!! Most digital cameras come with a macro setting, as do a lot of SLR lenses. Really, all you need to take a macro picture, is a lens that will focus close enough, and have enough of a telephoto to transfer the subject to the photo at at least a 1:1 ratio. Just because you have the camera set for macro, does not mean the final shot is going to be a macro. Say you take a picture of a large flower, one that has a diameter larger than 4 inches. If the entire flower is in frame (of a 4x6 print, using the newer definition), it is not a macro, because it is not lifesize (or larger). It can't possibly be, because the flower is LARGER than 4 inches. A lens that works for macro (or one that is designed for it), will have a minimum focus distance measured in inches, not feet. If the lens you are using still does not zoom in enough at the minimum focus distance, you can get extention tubes (SLR) or a close up lens attachment (fixed lens). The extension tube places the back of the lens further from the film (sensor for digital), the further the distance, the greater the magnification. The lens attachment for a fixed lens camera increases magnification before it enters the lens (and can cause distortion of poor focus, if it is a cheap one). Something to remember with macro photography. When you are focused that close to a subject, the DOF is significantly shorter. On a very close focus, you can set the camera to it's smallest aperture (greatest DOF), and still have parts of the subject out of focus. Getting a wide DOF with a very close focus requires the use of a tripod. Being that close to the subject will decrease the amount of light entering the lens, and using a small aperture will create the need for a longer shutter speed.
|
|||||||
|
|
||||||||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||||||||