 Anthony Ramirez |
HELP! can't shoot in gym, basketball
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robert G. Fately |
Anthony, the photos are underexposed because even at that relatively high sensitivity (ISO800) there is not enough light coming through the lens at f8. First thing is to open the lens as wide as it will go and see where that gets you. If you slow the shutter speed any more, then while enough light may hit the chip the image will end up blurred, so that won't be an option (even 1/90th ssecond may be too slow to freeze action). So the only alternative is to get a faster lens - usually a non-zoom (called a 'prime') lens can be had for much less money at a higher speed. Perhaps a 50MM or 85MM f1.8 or 1.4 would do - that will give you 4 times the light gathering power of the zoom you have now. Be aware, though, that sometimes it's just not possible to get good shots in a gym. If there's not enough light, even with a fast lens and high ISO setting, then you're just stuck. WHen the pros shoot venues like this, they install huge remote controlled flashes in the rafters above the house lights - these don't distract the players or bother the fans. Unless you have lots of Lire to pay for that, though, it's unlikely that the teams will allow you to use conventional flash on the floor.
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Anthony Ramirez |
Thanks BOB that was good info I was trying to get the 85mm lens. I have a question what do you mean by open the lens as wide it will go.Does that mean no zoom in because that is what I been doing.What do you recommend will be a good iso aperture shutter speed etc etc.
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robert G. Fately |
OKay, Anthony - here's what the terms mean: Focal length - an optical measurement, usually measured in millimeters, that relates to how wide or narrow an angle the lens "views". A "normal" lens on your DSLR would be about a 30MM focal length. Longer focal lengths are called telephotos, shorter ones are wide angle lenses. Zoom - this refers to any lens that can change its focal length. Your 24-85MM lens is a zoom lens becuase it can be changed from the wide-ish angle view of 24MM to the longer view of 85MM. Aperture (or f-stop) - entirely different measurement; it is how large an opening a lens has (which implies how much light it will let through). A smaller f-number means a wider, or more open, aperture, meaning it will let in more light. The lenses for your camera have variable apertures - you can change the f-stop from f4 to f5.6 or f11, etc. Manufacturers use the widest ("fastest") possible setting when they denote the lens speed. On your lens, that maximal value changes depending on what focal length you set the lens to. Shooting wide open simply means setting the lens to its maximum aperture opening - using the smallest f-number it has. A non-zoom lens, like an 85MM lens, can be had in faster speeds than most zoom lenses (until you get to the really expensive stuff). If you stick with your current lens, then instead of setting it to f8 set it to f5.6 or f4 or whatever its maximum aperture setting can be. You should be able to do this in the aperture-preferred mode, where the meter in the camera will then compensate by setting the appropriate shutter speed for good exposure. As for ISO setting - this will relate to what shutter speed the camera wants to set. Let me explain: if the light in the room and the aperture on the lens are left alone, the only two variables left are ISO and shutter speed. You want a fast shutter speed (at least 1/125th or 1/250th of a second) to freeze the action at a ball game - unless you want to get the blurred motion effect for artistic reasons. Slow shutter speed = blurriness due to motion. THe ISO you set should be the lowest that will get you to that shutter speed. Higher ISO numbers lead to more digital noise - kind of like grain in the film world - and 800 is already pretty much up there. SO, to recap: 2)set the camera to aperture preferred mode, and take note of the shutter speed it picks. 3) if that shutter speed is too slow, raise the ISO until you get something workable. 4) Know that it may just be too dark to get decent shots at all, at least not without a flash (which you probably won't be able to use) I hope that helps.
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Anthony Ramirez |
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Did Help got some better photo's but still not enough light. Saving up for 85 mm.
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Anthony Ramirez |
Hi Bob if you are still out there what is the best lens for me. I am not standing under the basket but on the side and some games in the stands.Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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robert G. Fately |
Well, Anthony, I'm glad your shooting is improving! As for the best lens - well, a zoom lens would be the most flexible option, but a fast oom (like a 70-200 f2.8) isn't cheap - I think Sigma's is about $800 and Nion's or Canon's versions are more like $1600. Also, from the sideline you could even benefit from a wider angle - when the players are closer to you - something wider than 35MM focal length as fast as you can get (that is, with the smallest f-stop). Ideally, you would have two bodies - one with the 70-200 2.8 and the other with the wide angle - you know, if you win the lottery...
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Anthony Ramirez |
I don't have the money for the zoom lens. I was thinking about EF 85mm f/1.8 usm or EF 50mm f/1.4usm. both about $400. What would be the best or is there something elsa out there. THANK you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
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robert G. Fately |
Well, given budget contraints (which we all have, of course) I don't know of anything better for this purpose. I mean, if you have a relaible camera store in the area maybe you could look into getting a used fast zoom, but of course that can be an iffy proposition. Good luck!
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Brenda M. Wolfensberger |
My daughter plays volleyball and does indoor guard. I always have difficulty getting the images to turn out and not be blurry. The last event was an indoor guard and they wouldn't allow me to use flash. I shoot a D70. I was using a Nikon 70-300mm lens. Here are two images from that day. The only setting I changes was to show "Tungsten" lights. Not sure if they were (how do you tell?) but it seemed to give good results. I have not corrected any of these. Any thoughts on what to change or try? Thanks!
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Scott H. |
If you can get down on the court level, a 50mm lens works pretty well. I bought a Nikon 50mm f/1.8 for less than $100 dollars. It's sharp as a tack and can focus very fast. Since it is effectively a 75mm lens on my D50, it is the cheapest (and fastest) telephoto you can buy. I really doubt you will see much difference in the f/1.4 and the f/1.8, but there is a big difference in price. The photo was taken in the Auburn University gym. It was shot at 1600 iso, f/2.8, 1/400 sec. I was about 10 steps from the back of the goal.
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Anthony Ramirez |
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Anthony Ramirez |
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Anthony Ramirez |
Hi everyone I dohave a 75-300mm Canon image stabilizer ultrasonic I use not for games. Doesn't work to good.can this lens be used and how. THANK YOU.
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robert G. Fately |
Anthony, the IS could be of help on occassions where the subject(s) aren't moving - but during normal play with the field in motion all the rules already mentioned apply. IS can't help there - if there is not enough light for a fast enough shutter speed then motion will get blurred. And Brenda, regarding your shots - they seem a bit soft; perhaps you were still unable to get a high enough shutter speed and so your own body movement created a bit of blur. Now Anthony - this is where that IS lens would help - when the subject is not in motion, the IS counters your own movement (to a degree) so that lens could have helped with Brenda's daughter. As for the lighting in the courts, Brenda - the shots look pretty well colored with perhaps a slight tinge of green - which may be my imagination anyway. But it is possible that there is a mix of tungsten (which is redish) and mercury vapor (which is greenish) lighting in the gym. If so, it will be quite hard to correct without a custom setting and perhaps an Exposdisc.
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Andy |
Anthony, looks like you may benefit with more light if you shoot from the other side of the court, if possible, because of the light coming in through the windows. Or try to manually set your camera to use the maximum aperture and fastest shutter speed and zoom in on the individual player. Good luck. HTH.
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KIM SCHULTZ |
Anthony, I was having a very similar problem. I recently purchased the Canon EF 50mm/1.8 lens. It has been well worth the purchase! I can crop post production, and my photos are so much better now. It is $69 on Amazon right now. It has it's limitations, but I really like the resulting images. Additionally, you will get to know the gyms in your area. Some have better lighting than others, and be prepared when you visit those gyms.
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Scott H. |
Anthony, Got my 50mm f/1.8 used on Ebay for $76 in excellent condition. Mine is Nikon, but I am sure Canon has one for about the same price. An 85mm f/1.8 would be nice to use but they are pretty pricey compared to the 50mm. High school gyms are usually not very bright (junior high is even worse) compared to college gyms, so they are a lot tougher to shoot in. So, you have to use slower shutter speeds which can make it difficult to freeze the action. One thing you can do is to shoot what you can, and brighten the image with software. A nice, free download is Picasa 2 by Google. It's not Photoshop, but it can do some nice things. Go to http://picasa.google.com/
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Anthony Ramirez |
Hi everyone I thank you so much for the info. I have a new question? I was looking on ebay what is the differance mark 1 and mark 2, ones metal mounted. What is the difference will they work. both by canon. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
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