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Photography Question 

Jake Gratto
 

metering in general


I have recently purchased a Nikon D70S digital SLR, before this purchase I used my Nikon F80. One thing I've always struggled with is the concept of metering correctly. I don't have either a grey card or light meter and am just relying on the metering sytem of the camera, trying to better understand the differnces between Spot, Matrix, and Centre weighted metering. I basically just looking for some "Rules of thumb" to help me get rolling and take better photos.
Unfortunately my schedule doesn't allow me the time to take a course so an hoping to draw of some of your expertise and experiences.
Thnaks in advance.
Jake


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December 07, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  Your question is a bit too vague. I would suggest you go to the top of the page to the Q&A window and type in "metering". There are about 300 threads on metering. Some of them should be helpful. Read through them and, if you have a specific question that isn't anwered, come on back with another question.


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December 07, 2005

 

Pete H
  Hello Jake...

First to address, the "grey card" thing.
Without going into all the tech mumbo jumbo; you don't need a grey card unless you are shooting in some fairly wild combo of mixed lighting.
The D-70 does a great job metering a scene.

If you already understand the concept of Matrix Vs. Center Wt Vs. Spot, please let us know so we can avoid all the typing. LOL

One tip I can offer is this: The D-70 tends to meter a little low..(i.e) underexposure by about a half stop. There is a software fix for this; it is known as "Custom Curves." These "curves" not only compensate for the under exposure problem, but also maximize the D 70's CCD sensor.
The two links below will explain what "Curves" are and what they can do, and also a link to downloading the curves.
I've used a number of them and find them great! I only wish the D-70 could load more than one curve at a time.

All the best,

Pete

http://fotogenetic.dearingfilm.com/custom_tone_curves.html

http://www.pbase.com/oldskoo1/the_curves/


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December 07, 2005

 

Jake Gratto
  Thankyou all for your feedback. Sorry to be so vague, I just thought I'd throw it out there - more specifics next time.
Thanks Pete I'll check those sights out.
Later,


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December 07, 2005

 

Jake Gratto
  Pete, I cjecked these sites out and wow, that's heavy stuff. These curves get downloaded to the camera??
If so how?


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December 08, 2005

 

Pete H
  You save the "curve" data to your computer and then transfer it to your CF card. From then, you place the CF card back in your Cam and follow the directions.

Pete


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December 08, 2005

 

David Earls
  Jake,

You can also meter off the palm of your hand. For most people, the palm of the hand is about one stop lighter than a middletone. So you can meter off your palm, set for one stop darker, and shoot.

As John Shaw puts it, "You'll always have it with you, and if you can't find it, you probably shouldn't be out trying to photograph." (From John Shaw's Closeups in Nature, p. 25)


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December 08, 2005

 

Justin G.
  Now you're obviously going to have different readings from a very white man to a very black man. Any takes on this? I'm assuming the "palm is +1 stop lighter" ordeal is for....white people and +1 stop darker would be black. How's that go?


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December 08, 2005

 

David Earls
  Justin,

You're absolutely correct, the palms of people with dark skin will not meter the same as the palms of people with light skin. Which is why I said, "for most people."

Irrespective of the color of your skin, you can meter your palm, and then meter a middletone, and the relative difference isn't going to change. That's the better way to do it.


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December 08, 2005

 

Justin G.
  Oh ok I see. Middle tone is normall grass or blue sky right? Well I guess I could just compare it too a gray card. Is there a gray in photoshop that I could just print out and have a homemade gray card? I'm assuming it doesn't have to be perfect just really close to the color.


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December 08, 2005

 

David Earls
  Justin,

Well, the difference between your palm and the grass or the sky is that your palm is always exactly the same color.

Grey cards are 18% grey. You can make one as easily as I did, in about two minutes. Print it on matte paper if you have it. I made a "case" for mine by laminating two pieces of 5x7 paper together, and then cutting one end off. The laminating material keeps the card clean and also keeps it from getting trashed in the camera bag.


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December 08, 2005

 

Justin G.
  understandable david, but how do I find 18% in photoshop. I got the inputs for RBG, CMKY or the color #. can you help me out on what you used? thx.


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December 08, 2005

 

David Earls
  Justin,

You could do it in either of two ways.

1. Set color mode to CMYK, set K=18, C,M,Y = 0.

2. Set color mode to RGB, set R=190, G=190, B=190.

HTH -


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December 09, 2005

 

Justin G.
  Thanks David. I figured that out with some research. Is 18% gray pretty light colored? I printed it out and it was pretty light and I thought I've seeen them darker so I'm skeptical to use it. I think I'm going to find a cheapy and then just match my printer to it and make unlimited amounts for when I need them. I also had my printer profile and monitor profile set the same so it shoulda been close. Hmm oh well. Thanks again.


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December 09, 2005

 

David Earls
  Justin,

Yep, it's pretty light gray. It matches the second lightest patch on a Macbeth Color Checker target used for calibrating cameras,or profiling printers.

Assuming you're shooting digital, the quickest and cheapest way to overcome skepticism is to use it. Ity's only going to cost you one shot -


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December 09, 2005

 

Jake Gratto
  Justin, that was a great question. I never even thought of making my own card, David thanks for the tips.
Cheers,


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December 10, 2005

 
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