 Ken Lankard |
telephoto lenses I am using a Nikon D70s body. I want to shoot some surfing and other sports related shots. I am "testing" a Sigma 50-500mm F4-6.3. So far my surfing shots are about 50% out of focus. I am using the sports program on the camera and automatic ISO setting. My surfing shots have been in bright daylight. Similar sports shots have given me similar results. Is the next step, if I want consistent sharpness on moving objects a Nikon 300mm 2.8 fixed lens?
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- Bob Cournoyer Contact Bob Cournoyer Bob Cournoyer's Gallery  |
What in the picture is in focus? Usually the sports mode will pick the largest moving object. Is it perhaps catching the waves and focusing on them and not the surfer?
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Ken Lankard |
Yes Bob, sometimes it is the surfer, other times it focuses on the waves. I am using a monopod for steadying the camera. By looking at some shots I took of volleyball players, the depth of field is so shallow, it only focuses on the relevent figure, the backgraound and foreground are out of focus. I've tried all three AF focusing modes to no avail. I'm thinking the F6.3 at 500m is just too slow for action shots.
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- Bob Cournoyer Contact Bob Cournoyer Bob Cournoyer's Gallery |
Look at the exif data for one of the out of focus pictures...see what aperture and shutter speed the camera chose. Maybe that will give you a hint. Me and my digital rebel don't know much about Nikons...:-)
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Stan Lubach |
Ken, have you tried: camera set to program mode, autofocus mode set to continuous servo, spot metering ( on whichever spot, though the subject will always need to be under that spot )? Also if it's bright enough, switch to aperature priority and select the smallest aperature ( the highest f-stop ) that will allow you to capture the action. That will increase your DOF and should have an effect on sharpening the capture.
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Ken Lankard |
Stan, I am using the sports mode as recommended. It claims to be the best selection for sports shots and use of telephoto lenses. Also claims to have the best focus program for moving subjects. I may try the aperature priority mode but at F 6.3 may not have enough light for a fast shutter speed to freeze movement. I agree with you, I need a much better DOF. Thanks to both for your suggestions.
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Stan Lubach |
I'm a bit confused by the f/6.3 reference in your reply. The lens should be capable of setting a much smaller aperature than f/6.3, usually around f/22. Did I misunderstand? Excuse me if this is something you already know, but the aperature range they list for a zoom lens is the widest aperature for a given focal length. So for the Sigma lens, at 50mm the widest aperature is f/4, at 500 it's f/6.3, and for the rest of the focal lengths it's something in between. As for the modes, this is completely my opinion but, I've always felt that the modes were meant to just make it easy to get "acceptable" images for a given set of conditions. The programs can't always account for every possible situation. This could be what's happening in your case.
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Stan Lubach |
I'm a bit confused by the f/6.3 reference in your reply. The lens should be capable of setting a much smaller aperature than f/6.3, usually around f/22. Did I misunderstand? Excuse me if this is something you already know, but the aperature range they list for a zoom lens is the widest aperature for a given focal length. So for the Sigma lens, at 50mm the widest aperature is f/4, at 500 it's f/6.3, and for the rest of the focal lengths it's something in between. As for the modes, this is completely my opinion but, I've always felt that the modes were meant to just make it easy to get "acceptable" images for a given set of conditions. The programs can't always account for every possible situation. This could be what's happening in your case.
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Ken Lankard |
Hi Stan, Yes the smallest aperature is 22. But as I observe in the viewfinder what is happening, the program chooses an aperature and shutter speed based on what the lens sees. I've noticed that it will choose F6.3 and a shutter speed of 800 or 1000 to freeze the motion. That's why to my way of thinking if I was using say a F2.8 lens, letting in more light, the shutter program would kick into a faster speed. I agree with you that the modes are usually the "shortcuts" to the old days of setting the aperature and shutter speeds manually. I appreciate the discussion with me on this. Thanks.
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