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How Color Slide film reacts differently then Negs Since my last topic sorta got into this area I thought i'd make a new topic about it... Basicly i'm just wondering how color slide reacts differently to light then negative film and how to compensate when exposing a scene. I also have another quick question, on the light meter in nikon cameras the minus signs means underexposure/darker picture and the + sign means overexposure/brighter picture right?
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Justin G. |
The basic way to explain this is that a slide (pre-exposure) has the density already on it, and when it is exposed the density is sort of burned away. This is why it is so easy to blow out your highlights with your chromes. Basically when you blow-out highlights you burn away all density and you have a blank piece of film so when you scan or project, it's blank, no detail in the highlights. This is also why you hear that when bracketing you should lean more towards underexposing than over, because it's so easy to blow out your whites. Negative film on the other hand is just the opposite. It starts clear, if you will, and when you expose the density is burned into it instead of away from it. So when you have white, you burn the density in and it turns a black on the negative. This is why when shooting print you should lean towards overexposure so you can burn the shadow details in. Also using these concepts you can control your saturation a little more too. Underexposing slide will raise your saturation some because if you overexpose, the colors will start to burn/fade away. The opposite with film. When you over-expose you burn in those colors a little more, a little more saturated. Now on the under- and over-exposure that I've mentioned, I'm not talking in full and more stops, I'm talking 1/3 increments. Especially on slides, you need to keep it within a 1/3 to get proper exposure. Some people shooting Fuji Velvia 50 rated at 40. Anytime I ever shoot print, I always rate 1/3 or 2/3 overexposure. When I'm shooting 160 I shoot at 125 and when I shoot 100 I shoot at 80. This is just me though and personal preference. Hope all this helps. Justin
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How do you only expose 1/3 of a stop?? I on my camera it goes from 5.6 to 8 and so on.. theres no in between.
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How do you only expose 1/3 of a stop?? I on my camera it goes from 5.6 to 8 and so on.. theres no in between.
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just out of curiosity if I wanted to do a multiple exposure with slide film ISO 100, I could.. 1- set the camera to ISO 200 and just take the light meters correct reading (for 2 shots) or 2-set the camera to 100 iso, shoot one frame at say 5.6 at 150 and for the second shot I would shoot at either 4 for 150 or 5.6 for 250 right? and another thing... if over/underexposing goes both ways depending on the film you use then how does the light meter work with the +'s and -'s??
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Being clear may be an analogy, but they both have emulsion on the film base. Negatives have their exposed to light areas developed and the non-exposed areas dissolved away by the fixer. Slides have their exposed to white light, or too much light, areas dissolved away by the fixer. Besides that, there's the obvious slides come out developed as the color they are exposed to. Negs come out opposite, not directly opposite. If you look at a color neg, you'll see that red comes out green on the negative, and yellow looks a little blue on the negative.
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Justin G. |
just an analogy.
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Jon Close |
d h, On all cameras, "+" exposure compensation adds more exposure: longer shutter speed and/or wider aperture. "-" is always less exposure. Re - 1/3 stops Modern electronic SLRs usually allow manually setting shutter and aperture in 1/2 stops (entry/mid-level bodies) or 1/3 stops (advanced and pro bodies). In autoexposure modes they make shutter and aperture settings in much finer increments (1/10 stop or even smaller), but will display the closest 1/2- or 1/3-stop increment. If using autoexposure, then 1/3 stop adjustments can also be made via the ISO setting, which almost always is in 1/3 stop increments (50, 64, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400,...)
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Jon, thanks for your help I shoot with a N80 now but just ordered an F100 but on manual mode my camera goes like this... so if 2.8 to 5.6 is a full stop, one 3rd of a stop would be from 2.8 to 3.3 or 5.6 to 4.8?
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Justin G. |
2.8 to 4 is a full stop so 3.3 would be a half stop. looks like the n80 works in halves.
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what are the stops? 1.4, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8... am I on target here? All I know is that going higher reduces light by half each time. and lower does just the oppisite.
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Justin G. |
1.4 2 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 32 45 64 90 those are full stops, anything in between is either 1/2 or 1/3.
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