 Dawn Penich |
Lighting I am an indoor architectural photographer and I am wondering abut fill light. Sometimes I would like light in corners that are darker than the rest of the room. I want to submit this idea and get feedback. I could buy 4 speedlight 550ex flashes, 3 small tripods and plcae them on the tripods around the rooms. Behind couches,ect. Then I could put one flash on my camera and trip the other flashes automatiaclly when I take a photo. That way they would all go off at the same time. My concern is, even setting the white balance, would it be too bright? Overpowering? Please help. I do not want to purchase this equipment until I know it will work. Thanks, Dawn
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Debby A. Tabb |
Boy Dawn, some questions are really hard to answer- with out being there to see size of room ect. how ever, this would be a beautiful way to light this room, and light can be so easily minipulated you can turn down some flashes,and defuse others,and then bounce another. so I belive that you would be on the right track(unless you wanted to go with strobes) I belive that if I was going to involve myself with some of the new "creative lighting systems" available through Nikon and Cannon- I would go a bit further and have some soft box attachments (for flash units) and other ideas for redirecting an defussing light and then.... PLAY!! and I wish you the best and a lot of fun getting to know this system. it does sound like a wonderful chore.
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robert G. Fately |
You know, Dawn, another potential approach could be to take multiple images of the room (using a tripod), exposing each one for a different area. Then, in post production (using Photoshop or whatever) overlay the shots on each other and erase the portions of the upper image that are poorly exposed. That is, say you take 2 images - one at f8 to capture the brightly lit areas and the other at f2.8 to properly get the darker corners of the room. On the first shot, the dark corners will lose any details - they might just look dark and muddy. On the second shot, the corners might look great, but the big picture window is not just a big white square (highlights were "blown out"). Now, in Photoshop, layer #2 over #1. Use the eraser tool, with a soft edge, to erase away the big white blown out area and expose the properly exposed window area underneath. The point is to combine the two exposures, each with its own problem areas, together to show only the good stuff.
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Dawn Penich |
Thanks very much. You know, I have been recommeneded this option before but never told exactly how to do it so I appreciate it. I am definitley going to try that out. Thanks, Dawn
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Maverick Creatives |
Bob is right in suggesting photoshop. It is an option. However I really enjoy my canon speedlite set up and am getting more and more "into" it. I have a 580EX and the new 430 EX and I suppose before the month is over I'll have another 430. They are great for the typical family portrait work I do and I am discovering as I get more proficient that I really enjoy working with them. As debbie suggested there are all kinds of little things you can attatch to or bounce off. Also, you can manually control all OR just trust the ettl which in turns fires the flashes through a wireless connection. I have studio hotlights and strobes that are getting less and less use. Guess I'm semi-sold on my speedlites at this point. Gary
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John C. Schwentner |
Dawn, yes thats the way to go especially if you are making a living with it. I have the same kind of setup with three 580 ex's and the Canon st-1 speedlite transmitter. You can trigger the slaves with one of the masters, or use the transmitter and not even have a flash on the camera. Since being wireless you can place them all over the place. also most importantly you can set the ratios of each flash separately, so you can have some brighter than the others
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