BetterPhoto Q&A
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Jordan H		SB28 with Omnibounce I own a SB28 w/ Omnibounce and an F100. My problem? When I use the SB28 for people shots (indoor, 5-15 feet) I can't quite figure how to set the flash. I currently set the flash at 45 degrees, TTL, and hope the Omnibounce will do the rest. Can anyone help me please? To love this question, log in above June 02, 2001

John A. Lind		Jordan, STO-FEN (maker of the Omni-Bounce) recommends the following: 1. TTL flash control: Normally this is how one would use the SB-28 with the F100. From closest focus to about 15 feet, angle the flash up at 45 degrees. At further distances, direct works OK. With TTL control, from straight on to pointed straight up will work from an exposure control standpoint unless the exposure required exceeds the max output of your SB-28 (this is very dependent on film speed and subject distance). 2. Non-TTL Flash Control: (Note: This assumes using a sensor on the flash below the flash tube to control light output.) Tilt the flash head up 45 degrees. The primary reason is keeping light from the omni-bounce from directly hitting the flash's sensor. As with TTL control, the diffusion is also better at closest focus to about 15 feet. Assuming you've been following the recommendations in #1 for TTL control, has there been a problem with your images? If so, can you describe what has happened? -- John To love this comment, log in above June 04, 2001

Jordan H		Hi John -- Thanks for answering my question. I'm having such a hard time getting to learn my sb28. My shots tend to be blown away, as it seems the flash just 'punches' the subject. I assume you are saying I should simply keep my F100 on Program, set the flash to TTL, and follow the 45 degree info. you mentioned. How about the metering settings on the f100? Would you use spot, center weight, etc? And, would you use the f100 on P, Aperture Priority or Manual? I guess I'm rambling so I won't kill you with the details. I'm simply looking to fill the subjects faces, etc. with an acceptable amount of light. Thanks, Jordan To love this comment, log in above June 05, 2001

John A. Lind		My system is not Nikon, so the following are some generic remarks about these issues. Hopefully someone with specific knowledge will have some suggestions about specific F100 settings. 1. The SB28 is a pretty powerful flash. If you get too close, a powerful flash can blow out the subject. Look up what the minimum range is. If you're working closer than that, look up whether you can reduce the flash power while still retaining TTL control. I cannot do this with my system, so one of my flash strobes is a smaller, less powerful one. Flashes are controlled by strobe duration; less light is shorter duration and more has longer duration. There's a minimum flash duration and that's why there's a minimum range in addition to the maximum one. 2. Suggest avoiding "program" mode when using flash. I prefer setting the lens aperture to the one I want that will still work for the subject distance (for DOF control) and allowing TTL flash control to determine how much light is needed from the flash. 3. Also suggest avoiding "spot" metering for flash control. In thinking about it either matrix or center weighted ought to work better. It's hard for me to imagine much beyond some highly unusual conditions where spot metering for flash control would be an advantage. The narrow spot would have to be on a very middle mid-tone. If it's on something dark or light, it will shift exposure to try to make it the equivalent of an "18% gray mid-tone." -- John To love this comment, log in above June 06, 2001

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