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Category: New Questions

Photography Question 

Eric
 

PROFESSIONAL NEW CAMERA SELECTION


I am a film-maker who works mostly in Super 16mm and 35mm motion picture imaging. At this time, I do not have a still camera. I have been asked by a few bands and record companies to do some still work on the sets of my music videos and at concerts.

I have a few questions I would like to ask.

I have considered the Mamiya 646 Pro because it can do 35mm and also medium format - I assume you can attach a Polaroid back also.

I am not sure that I need to make the step to medium format for what I am getting into – and what the cost differences are.

I may do a few 'photo sessions' – but most likely, I will start out going on the road some bands of the bands I know – shooting concert shots and behind the scenes stuff.

Based on my research, I think I would need a camera that can take several 'action' shots quickly - capturing someone jumping onstage (clicking off several shots in a quick succession, or in a second - hoping one is a keeper).

Does this need put me in the 35mm world or does the Mamiya (or any medium format) have a rapid frame rate – thus being a wiser choice in the long run.

Which camera would you suggest for my needs? And, do I need a camera with a build in advance motor or is it better to buy a separate motor and attach it?

I have no idea of where to begin, and would love some input.

Thanks


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May 20, 2001

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  I am primarily a MF shooter but for this type of photography I would stay with 35mm. 35mm will be much easier to handle, gives you much faster lenses, and you probably won't need to make huge enlargements.

I've done a bit of band promo shooting and I know the lighting can be difficult. Not only from an exposure standpoint but also when it comes to focussing. My shots have been up close and personal shots in clubs and I use a rangefinder. The rangefinder has a fast lens and its much easier to focus in low light. I generally meter with my handheld meter (spot and incident). Be sure that whatever you decide on has a spot meter if you don't want to use a handheld model. You may not be using a lot of flash so make sure you get fast lenses. Lens length will depend on how close you can get to the band. As I said my shooting has been close in with a 48mm lens. I would assume if you are getting assigned to do this you will have access but it wouldn't hurt to get a moderately long telephoto in addition to a normal and/or wide angle lens. Zooms may help you get shots but may not be fast enough for some shots. Go to a camera shop and play around with different lenses etc. and see what you think.


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May 20, 2001

 

John A. Lind
  Eric,

The M645 Pro is a good camera and the Mamiya Sekkor lenses are excellent. It's also toward the lighter end of medium format.

My advice though is to have _both_ 35mm and medium format systems. Although it's lighter than my older M645, the M645 Pro is still bulkier and heavier than a 35mm system. If your thinking about doing still photos during a concert, a 35mm with a motor drive that can run in "single" or "continuous" mode would probably work better. It would be lighter and much easier to reload film; less fatigue and easier film handling. Yes, you can change film relatively quickly on the 645 by using preloaded film backs, but backs are expensive and they aren't small enough to fit in your pocket. They're much bigger than rolls of 35mm and much heavier. BTW, running a motor drive in "continuous" mode can burn film fast, very fast. A standard 35mm roll is 36 exposures! At 5 fps, that's about 7 seconds worth. Use "continuous" mode judiciously! As you gain experience shooting stills at concerts, you'll get better at anticipating the "decisive moment" for a shot. It's likely you'll not be using a motor drive in "continuous" mode after a while. (I have one and it's been years since the switch was in "continuous").

The motor drives I've seen for medium format rigs are very heavy! I fear you would get fatigued rather quickly and I don't know that they can run in a "continuous" mode (if they did, they would also have to run slower . . . fewer frames per second).

For other still photographs . . . the posed or slower moving type . . . for album covers, publicity photos and posters, the 645 can easily be used and would be more suitable for making the large prints these images are used for than 35mm format.

I've found that 35mm and medium format complement each other. For much the same reasons, many wedding photogs use both formats. A 645 or 6x6 is used for the formal portraits at the wedding and possibly some semi-formal shooting at the reception. The photojournalist or editorial style and candids of people preparing for the wedding and at the reception are made with 35mm gear. (Been there; done that; works well.)

I have an extensive 35mm system and a growing 645 system. They both have their place and uses. I wouldn't think of giving up either to use the other exclusively. Just my opinion on it.

Jeff . . . you're a MF user too, what's your take about 35mm and 645 in his intended applications?

-- John


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May 20, 2001

 

John A. Lind
  Hmmm . . . looks like you posted it while I was typing in mine! :)

-- John


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May 20, 2001

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  I'll answer your question any way. ;-))) To me the lens choice makes 35mm the clear choice here. They are faster, cheaper, and of a wider variety. I don't think the resolution gained with a 645 would be noticeable on a CD cover. 645 is a nice compromise between 35mm and say 6x7 but for this application I think 35mm is the best bet.


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May 20, 2001

 

Eric
  Thanks guys - but which 35mm - and motors - are they in one or buy separate? do I go with an F5 - F100 or a canon? I dont know the lingo and what I need specifically - just asking for reccomendations. distortedpicture@aol.com.


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May 20, 2001

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  I've always been a Canon guy but Nikon is just as good. Most (if not all) of the top models today have motors. I have an EOS3 which is very nice. The eye controlled focus works very well. You can get a power booster to really make the winder sing. Canon's Image Stabalized (IS) lenses work very well.


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May 21, 2001

 

John A. Lind
  I can't help much with features on the new stuff; most of mine is 15-20 years old (and more).

Sounds like you're likely to have one in your hands for a several hours or more at a time. If that's the case, consider ergonomics along with other features. Look for one that "feels right" in your hands, with your fingers falling naturally onto its controls, and your eye in a natural position in the viewfinder. I recommend going to a major camera store and handling the bodies that Jeff mentioned, with various lenses on them (pro grade Nikon F and Canon EOS). Anything that feels awkward after a few minutes can become a royal pain after several hours. The size and shape of everyone's hands are different; what feels good to one person can be awkward to another. It's not the only thing to consider, but one of several. One of the reasons I've stayed with the older gear. It "feels right" and my hands fall into place on the controls naturally when I pick it up.

-- John


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May 21, 2001

 
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