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daryllucarelli.com - Daryl R. Lucarelli

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Panorama's - Need some quidance


 
 
I have admired some Panorama's I have seen. When trying them I have noticed that my skies are not the same 'exposure", and I have a few questions for quidance....can I "do something befroe I shot, and can I adjusted after workds in PS CS....I have tried to take images in Aperature mode so depth of feed will not different!, is this right?....Is there a guide rule for how many images to stitch....2,3, no more then 4 ????....When the skies do not blend can this be fixed if images keep in layers, adjusted first, then automoteaed and merged in CS ?..... is an image take of some tall trees taken from far away and then cropped, better then up close with say three images stitched better...what would the difference be?.... is it better to take three vertical and stitch or three horizontal and stitch....how much can you or should you "zoom-in" or not zoom in for a panorama.....there are so many questions and I know I can learn by thrying these things out, which I plan to do but I would like to "shorten" my learning curve and get he4aded in the correct direction...any help, guidlines. or tips would be appreciated...Daryl


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August 21, 2005

 

Brian A. Wolter
  Ypu can try the program called Autostitch. It has the blending built into the program and does all the work for you.

http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html


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August 22, 2005

 
daryllucarelli.com - Daryl R. Lucarelli

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  Brian - thanks for taking the time to pass on this link.... I will try to check it out and see....thanks very much again for your time.... I will also go to your web iste and chcek out your images too. Daryl


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August 22, 2005

 

anonymous A.
  The program Brian recommended will solve your blending problems and cope with a lot of shooting errors. But for the best results, you need the best pictures to work with.

The focal length is less important than keeping the same focal length throughout the images. That said, wider angle lenses mean few shots to stitch together and fewer errors, and provide greater latitude for focusing errors, which can be important in large panos.

Shooting in the vertical (portrait)format is a very good idea, though most shots are taken landscape mode; you need more frames to get a looong pano if you shoot portrait format, but the effect can be stunning.

Moving in closer and cropping changes the perspective: the final result determines which is the better image, but whenever you crop, you are forcing yourself to enlarge from few pixels to get the equivalent image size, and that is seldom the best way to go.

Be aware that when you rotate your camera on a tripod, it is pivoting around a point under the film/sensor plane. This will make it harder to get an undistorted image that aligns naturally. You really need to rotate the camera around the point where the light rays cross in your lens barrel... for a short focal length lens, this will be roughly where the lens mounts to the camera, with a longer lens, assume an inch from the body. There are panorama mounts for tripods to accommodate this.

How many images? As many as you need: don't forget that you might want to stitch vertically ans well as horizontally to make the whole picture. However, the more images, and the more large images, the more memory and processing power you need, and the larger the resulting file. I have 2 panos in my gallery which run to over 100megs in the originals (Flight Center and Sydney Harbour). They were both made "manually" and the Sydney one took so long to process I took several days just to get the 5 images lined up. It was a major pain! Autostitch (I have a commercial implementation of Autostitch by Serif called PanoramaPlus2) did the same job in 30 minutes AND produced the cropped image blended and corrected for all exposure and density variations at the same time.
One last tip...allow plenty of overlap between the frames. Serif suggest 30% to 50%.


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September 27, 2006

 
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