 Paul D. Carter |
Desert Photography Techniques What special considerations are there for desert photography (landscapes)? I will be on vacation in Palm Springs, CA, in Sept. and want to get good photos of the desert landscape. I will also be visiting Joshua Tree National Park. What film speed is best - print film or slide film? Polarizer or not? Please advise. Thanks.
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Kay Beausoleil |
In my film days, I used Velvia (50 ISO slide) because I like punchy colours. That's a personal preference only. You can use slow film because nothing's moving. Definitely a polarizer. Not only is it useful for the blue sky, but it also cuts the reflections from the sand and vegetation and lets the colours come through. Other considerations: Do everything you can to keep sand out of the camera, lenses and camera bag. Take things out only when you're about to use them. Wrap equipment in Ziploc bags. In short, pretend you're at the beach and you'll save yourself many dollars in repair bills.
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doug Nelson |
Stick with late evening and early morning, and you may not need a polarizer. Between about 10 a.m. and 6 p.m., you might do well to stay in the pool, as the light is incredibly harsh.
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John R. Sack |
I visit Palm Desert (near Palm Springs) about a half dozen times a year. I'd suggest you add the Tram to your itinerary (I believe it is in Cathedral City); it is about 30 degrees cooler at the top of the tram than on the desert floor. Some beautiful high perspectives there. And (departing from landscape) add The Living Desert, an animal habitat in Palm Desert, as well if you take along a long lens for closeups of desert animals; go at 8am in the morning for shots before the animals disappear to avoid the heat. I don't do much landscape myself, so can't suggest specific techniques. But watch for dust in the air that will obscure your shots. I sometimes will frame an interesting plant/tree against the stark blue sky by shooting up from below it. If you go to a pond or lake (golf courses have lots of them) you'll usually find some interesting birds (egrets, road runners) but you have to watch for the light you capture them in to avoid blown highlights. Palm tree silhouettes are easy/fun if you find a graphically interesting set of them. John John
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David King |
I take student fieldtrips and workshops to the desert frequently. Sand, as noted, is definitely a problem and the baggies are a good approach. Another problem is heat this time of year: it will be beastly hot, hot enough to heat-fog film and, if you leave a camera in the sun or car, especially one with a black body, it can drain the lubricant right out of it. I keep my film and cameras in a cooler and toss blankets on top for added insulation. I use a couple of small "Blue Ice" packets: I don't want it COLD, just to keep it at a reasonable temp, like below 75 or 80. When setting up on a tripod for a shot even if it is not a view camera I use the white side of my darkcloth to cover the camera to reflect as much heat as possible. Without it the camera can get so hot it will burn you--not to mention what it is doing to the innards being cooked. I also shoot all day long . THe desert light is all about timing and angles. True, the big landscapes are morning and late afternoon tarkets, but details and abstracts can be perfect in mid day. Sometimes I'll rig a scrim over a subject to soften the shadows or use fill. Also, especially at J-Tree, try some painting with light on the bizarre shapes. And take plenty of water for yourself. Drink frequently, not just when you get thirsty. Take good sunscreen and loose, light clothing. Watch where you walk. Have someone show you a Cholla cactus and then be very careful around them: the spines have barbs and it is most unpleasnt to dig out a handful of them from some tender spot. Then get ready for some incredible shooting. David
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David A. Bliss |
I love Velvia, and before I got my 10D, I shot a lot of it. But Velvia tends to saturate cool colors (greens, blues). Don't get me wrong, it will work wonderfully, but you might look into some Kodak or Agfa slide, which tend to saturate reds and browns more. Also, if you don't have a graduated nuetral density filter setup, look into it. For sunrises and sunsets especially, but for any time the foreground and the sky have a wide exposure latitiude, it will help you compensate, and the photo will have a better overall exposure. One other tip. I don't know if you have shot the desert much, but remember to watch the behind you. While you are watching that nice sunset in front of you, there might me some amazing sights behind you, lit up by the long evening sun. The red rocks of the desert can absolutely glow in the morning and evening light!
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