 Brad silcott |
Need advice PLEASE I have been picked to shoot a aircraft for a flight school website/brochures. I have a few questions 1. I would like to shot some cockpit shots off natural ligght. But would like to see out the window at the same time would I meter outside then shoot. OR Meter on the cockpit. 2. Would 100 speed film give me better color than 400. Enough to be noticible? 3. How many F/Stops of light would I lose with a Polarizer?? ( I couldn't be lucky and not lose any) 4. How much would you charge? I atleast get them to cover cost. But would like some extra. How much would you say is too much to ask? I was thinking $300 + developing cost. Thanks a bunch guys/gals. Brad S.
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Julie M. Cwik |
Brad, I would expose for the cockpit because if you expose for the sky, then you lose all detail in the cockpit and that is the main reason for you to shoot it. Another idea is to shoot and expose for both, then in Photoshop combine both images. Then you will have a superb image. ISO speeds doesn't deal with color (as much as I know) a higher ISO will give you more "Grain" in your images, if you want a more realistic color go with Kodak, if you want more saturated "prett colors" images, go with Fuji. You will lose anywhere from 1-2 stops with a polorizer filter depending on which one you bought and how it was turned. The polarizer filter will saturate your colors a lot! (so don't go with fuji film for this assignment!) I would also bring an external flash, and a tripod just in case. I would charge at least $100 over the expenses that I would have to pay. But then again, that is me. Hope this helps Brad.
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Brad silcott |
That helped at lot. I have not purchased a polarizer yet. Any tips on which one for Canon AE-1P? I have heard some people say that linear is fine for a older camera but then I heard someone say that the AE-1P has a finiky meter. I am basicly trying to get photos with more color. With out major appeture or shutter speed adjusting. I must ask. This camera was a hand down from my grandmother which bought the camera new in 83. She has taken photos that have the most vivid colors. So exactly what it was like. Yet if I shoot with same film speed which was Kodak iso 200. The colors are flat. I can take a shot of a deep blue sky and it will come back light blue almost white. I can't seem to figure it out. She gave up photography and packed the camera nicely in a closet and I stumbled across it last year about this time and have been using it. I quess what I am asking is what could possibly break on a camera that makes it loss its color representaion?
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Julie M. Cwik |
Brad, I couldn't tell you which filter to get because I work with Nikon not cannon so I'm unfamiliar with it. I would honestly take the camera to a profession store to get it cleaned and to make sure all the "buttons" work correctly. (costs around $30-$50 and 1 day turn around, if they are good!) If you are 100% sure that your grandmother shot Kodak and got vivid colors, then it wasn't your typical over the counter film. I would go to the professional camera store and tell them what you are shooting (be detailed) and tell them that you want something with vivid colors, and anything other information (such as are there people in the shots) and ask them what film type they would suggest. The film will run you anywhere between $5.00-$12 a roll depending, They (if they are good) will pull the film out of the refriderator and give it to you, (keeping it cool pro-longs the use of the film) but do make sure to let your film warm up to room temperature before shooting wiht it, or it will condensate in your camera and screw up your images and your camera at the same time. (Trust me it sucks!) Or if the budget it tight then buy fuji (if you want the saturated colors) Kodak is only good if you want true acturate colors/skintones. Fuji is good only if you want saturated colors.
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Brad silcott |
Ok thanks I appreciate your help. AS far as the Camera store goes that wont work. My local camera store has one guy that owns it. He has screwed up my film multiple times. He is trying to sell me a camera. I have heard a lot of people that have old cameras say that he purposly messed up there carmera so he could sell them a new one. Talk about a crappy buiness man. The film he sells is on a self and most of it is outdated. I have not many options of getting my film done anywhere else. I have tried drug stores and wal-mart. I would rather him tamper with my prints than to destroy my negatives like all the drug stores do. I do have one question for you though I am an aviation photographer(of sorts) and Most of my subjects are white or light in color. The area around the plane is light concrete. I have gone off of my meter reading. I think I may be over exposing them. How would I know? Does overexopsing mean the photos come out almost white? OR Does overexposing mean they come out Dark? O and one more question in this photo http://myaviation.net/search/photo_search.php?id=00273150 The shadow area is not blue on the plane. It seems my camera will always show a shadow area as blue like evident here as well http://myaviation.net/search/photo_search.php?id=00334632. I don't get it. My scanner which is a 24bit Epson perfection 1250 also will make the taxiway and apron blue tinted as well. I am starting to get the feeling I need a about 5000 bucks in gear.
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Julie M. Cwik |
Brad, the blue color comes from the shadows, blue is the color of shade. If you don't like the blue then take it out in Photoshop by going to "Image" "adjustments" "color Balance" then slide the bar around until you get what you want. Or if you don't want to mess around with that then go to Image, Adjustments, and Auto Color and that should correct it well enough for you.
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