 Anahelena Natera |
Exposing with Softboxes Hi everyone. I'm thinking of starting to learn how to use lighting equipment. Up until now I have worked with natural light so I have no clue as to where to begin. I'm thinking of using a single strobe with a softbox but I have no idea as to how to expose for this kind of light. Any ideas? I was also wondering if the set up should be in a dark room? or can it have natural light? I would truly appreciate any input. Thanks so much.
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Kerry L. Walker |
A combination of a strobe and natural light is not a problem as they are both approximately the same color temperature. For the best results, make sure the strobe doesn't overpower the natural light.
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David King |
It sound to me that what you are really asking is how to expose for the short light of the strobe??? If so, the best solution is a flash meter that can read the brief output. The softbox will diffuse and lower the light output but the meter will simply read the light that reaches the subject and give you an aperture to use. The shutter speed is irrelevant to the strobe, most of which fire at around 1/1000 of a second. You did not mention the type of camera, but if it has a focal plane shutter, you will need to use a shutter speed that properly synchs with the flash or you will not expose a full frame. (Leaf shutters will synch at virtually any speed.) If you do not have a flash meter you will need to calculate the aperture based on the guide number and distance from the light to subject then factor in the loss due to the softbox. If you are, as Kerry interpreted, mixing the strobe with natural light, the shutter speed will need to be a speed that properly records the natural light at the same aperture the strobe demands. A good flash meter will give you the data for both flash and ambient light in one reading. David
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John A. Lind |
Kerry's right about the color temperature and strobes being nearly the same. Daylight does change its color temperature a little throughout the day . . . early morning just after dawn compared to mid-day compared to early evening shortly before sunset. If you observe carefully on a day with very few or no clouds you can see this. Daylight also becomes cooler (more blue content) on overcast days. Even so, it shouldn't be much an issue as long as it's being mixed some everywhere in the photograph. I presume your daylight is coming through a window. If you have any coverings on the window . . . some use sheer curtains that let most of the daylight through while diffusing it . . . are white so they don't shift the color. Any draperies or other window decoration should be pulled away so that it doesn't "tint" the light being used from it. Walls and ceiling in a studio should be a color neutral color so they don't tint the light bouncing around off them. -- John Lind
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Jay Soldner |
Buy yourself a flash meter. Kerry said: 'make sure the strobe doesn't overpower the natural light' . . . David is right on the money. Reread his response, then print it. It will help greatly until you've fully learned to shoot with off camera strobes and it and becomes second nature. Then . . . buy yourself a flash meter.
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