 Romen Vargas |
Need Help With Scanning I send them to Rabbit Photo (for anyone in Aus) and they have a film scanner. I pay like $10 (about $6 US) to get the film scanned and the images put onto CD as a JPEG. The JPEG is a 500ish dpi image of the neg. I get them back and they look way different from the print (that I get from somewhere else). The colour saturation is different, the contrast is different, etc. To illustrate the difference I included 2 winners from onlinephotocontest and 2 of my images (I wish I could post what my prints look like but I have a crappy 8 bit scanner ;p) hope someone can help out here.
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John A. Lind |
Romen, I prefer using a Kodak PhotoCD. This is not the PictureCD that can be requested at time of processing, but a different higher resolution process. The base price (US) is about $10 for the CD and about $1 per image scan. One CD will hold 100 images, and you can continue adding images at later dates until it is filled. You might find out what the pricing is for a PhotoCD in AUS, or other sources for high res scans to CD's there. Even with these, the scans need work to make them "web presentable" images. They are extremely high resolution and often color balance, contrast and "unsharp mask" sharpening is needed to increase contrast sharpness at contrast edges slightly. The very last step after all this is resizing the image for the pixel dimensions desired and file size, then it's saved as a jpeg. I use Digital Light & Color's "PictureWindow" to process the raw scans and perform these steps. Others use PhotoShop. There is a learning curve to using this type of software. Be patient, and don't be afraid to experiment. You can always reload from the CD and start over (been there, done that). I don't quit until I've got something as close as possible to the original transparency (I shoot almost all slides). -- John
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Miguel Almeida |
Hi Romen, Just adding two quick thoughts to what John as already said: i) I would strongly suggest that you invest on a good scanner and do the scanning yourself. Professional services are fine, but if you do it yourself there is a lot you can play with, from dpi scanning to pic size to whatever. In the long run, you'll get to know what is the best configuration to fit your purposes for each scan you do; ii) more importantly: for best results, always get your file scanned into a TIFF format, do whatever changes to the file and image manipulation still in TIFF format, and save it as a JPEG for file size purposes only, and only at the end of any image manipulation. Better yet, save your personal "to keep" files in TIFF format (in the CD) if you can, even the manipulated images. TIFF (uncompressed) is about the only image format that doesn't use some sort of compression. When you save in any compression format, your image loses important sharpness information, however slightly! So this should be the last save only, everything else in between should be TIFF. You can always convert to JPEG at any time from the originals, if you need. The file sizes are much bigger in TIFF, but for image quality alone, it is worth the space investment! I hope these help, coming from a previous onlinephotocontest.com winner! (well, a 1st prize, not a Grand!...) mig
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