 Ben F |
Shooting city at night on slide Hey I have previously been out shooting the city buildings at dusk/night and had very good results on neg film. I basically used a shutter speed of 20 or 30 seconds with aperture of around f16 and had some really nice pictures come out. I noticed in the viewfinder when I was preparing the shots on the print film, it always gave me a reading saying that the picture was going to be underexposed, but they turned out fine. I have an EOS rebel 300v, and im also wondering if the meters inside these cameras are usually spot on, even with slide film???
|
|
|
|
||
|
Bob Cammarata |
In-camera meter readings and exposure times are the same,...whether you're shooting negative or slide film,...as long as they are the same speed (ISO). What you WILL notice with slides...especially at night, are color shifts due to color temperature variants, or reciprocity failure on long exposures. With negative film,...these two lighting issues can be corrected in the printing process.
|
|
|
|
||
|
John A. Lind |
My thoughts are along the same lines as Bob . . . with exposure being more finicky also . . . the chromes don't have the latitude of negatives. Regarding reciprocity failure, this varies wildly depending on specific film used. Kodachrome 64 hits it quite early. Ektachrome E200 can withstand 10's of seconds. Likewise, Provia 100F can withstand very long exposures before color shifting, but Velvia cannot. At night . . . with no daylight . . . you might want to try using Ektachrome 160T . . . a tungsten balanced film that also can be used for rather long exposures before hitting reciprocity failure. I've had excellent results using it for night urban cityscapes and street scenes. Don't expect it to correct everything . . . there's a lot of different types of lighting out there . . . fluorescents will still have a very pale greenish cast and sodium vapor will still be a tad yellowish (not nearly as much as with daylight). Colored neon signage has always come out OK for me and incandescent spotlights render very well . . . especially higher wattage ones. I don't recommend mixing with daylight at dusk though . . . it turns daylight very blue. Some scenes with both bright street lights or luminaries very close and deep shdaowy areas. the close bright lights can over-influence TTL metering. If in doubt, hand meter what you want rendered midtone or bracket the exposure in about half-stop increments working to a full stop in each direction (five photos total: 0, +1/2 +1, -1/2 -1). With more evenly light scenes in urban settings with a lot of lighting around, I've never encountered any serious problems letting TTL metering do its thing. -- John Lind
|
|
|
|
||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||