 Frank P. Luongo |
How to Meter Sunrise and Sunset Scenes My Nikon N-75 has a built-in meter system. I often use manual mode which utilizes center-weighted metering when the sun is in the picture for sunrise or sunset. Do you recommend metering a part of the scene away from the sun, i.e., the blue sky? How about a gray card? Is it worth it to buy an external meter?
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Bob Cammarata |
If you want the sunrise/sunset to appear as it did to the naked eye, I would suggest manually metering on the sky without the sun in the frame. Then, using that setting, you can recompose to include the sun in the frame if you want. Grey cards are beneficial for measuring reflected light. If you use them for sunrises or sunsets, turn around and get a reading off the card of the light illuminating the landscape behind you for the best possible setting. It's always a good idea to bracket this type if exposure to be sure.
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Mike Bowden |
If you remember that your meter will try to expose anything to achieve a representation of the 18% gray tone and adjust accordingly you will achieve the results you seek. Highlights are above the 18% exposure; bracketing toward the underexposed side pulls highlight tones toward the mid-range, causing you to lose shadow detail. Overexposing shadows to the mid-range blows highlights out to white with little or no detail in them, like backlit subjects and sky backgrounds with no fill light used.
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Michael McCullough |
Underexpose your shots by 1/2 to a full stop you will find this will portray the colours in the sky way better and stop the sun itself from being very blown out!!!!!!
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
I wouldn't use a gray card if you're going to shoot a sunset because at sunset the light shining on whatever's behind you isn't like the light that's scattered making the sky the red and orange. you'll end up washing it out. Spot meter off the sky away from the sun and open up a little bit.
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