 Marc D. Bell |
Best multi purpose DSLR camera? I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with this question in order to save me several hours of more research. Here goes.....Can anyone tell me (with acurate knowledge) which DSLR camera is on the market or soon to be, is the best for photography in all it's forms? I am wanting an upgrade and I do all types of photography. I want one with low noise at higher ISO settings. Able to see most changes immeadiately thru the viewfinder. High resolution for printing large prints (somewhere around a 7 or 8 MP). I'm really leaning towards the Nikon Series, but they are geared so much towards certain types of photography and since I shoot everything from commercial photography to indoor weddings and portraits to landscape photography....well, it's just a tough decision and I'm really hoping somone can help me out. I currently have the Minolta Dimage 7i SLR, love it, but it doesn't do everything I need in a camera. It has high noise at higher ISO settings and the White Balance is far from the best, the auto setting for this really isn't up to par. I apologize for such a long question, but I'm really wanting to make my 2nd camera one that will do what I need and last me for years to come. Again, I appreciate any help anyone can give me.
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Piper Lehman |
Marc, Even though it might seem that Nikon's models are geared toward specific types of photography, this is usually more of a marketing scheme than it is an accurate depiction of the camera's functions. I use the D100 and I shoot portraits as well as sports and action. As new cameras are constantly being thrown into the mix, the general rule is, sadly, that there will ALWAYS be a better camera out there. Choose the best you can afford. This may sound like "duh" advice, but it really is the best advice. The information is out there. I suggest you research and read people's personal experience with their cameras. Example: go read up on Nikon cameras on Moose Peterson's and Thom Hogan's respective sites. You can't go wrong once you choose a brand. Canon offers comparable cameras to Nikon and vice versa. I love my D100. I would probably buy the D2H if I could justify the price leap, but as of now, I don't "need" the D2H that much. If you shoot sports and action 90% of the time, you might feel differently. My friend Christian Boice would make love to his D2H if he could. But he runs a sports photo business. He sold his D1X, bought the D100, and then jumped on the D2H as soon as it was released. OF course, Chris has more money to spend on such things because, unlike some of us, actually makes a profit from his business. Hee hee. Christy, if you're reading this, you know I love you!
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Piper Lehman |
Another reason I haven't upgraded to the D2H (if, indeed, it 'is' an upgrade) is that I shoot stock photography, which does include some sports and action, but my camera has to be "all purpose" as you mentioned. The 6mp resolution of the D100 is also a must for my stock work. I would be spending way more time in Genuine Fractals than I already do to get the file sizes my agencies require (minimum of 36MB) with the D2H. I'm currently waffling on whether to add the new 8mp Coolpix 8700 to my system, but I'm afraid I will be less likely to use my D100 in critical situations. When Nikon releases a 10mp SLR with interchangeable lenses, I will be offering my first born to jump on that boat! Aren't we terrible? No matter what we have, we always want more...I swear it's an addiction that Nikon and Canon must have something to do with. I wonder if they are infusing their equipment with the same chemical the cigarette companies use to get you hooked...hmmmm..
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Marc D. Bell |
Thank you Piper, Could you please tell me about the Nikon, are you able to see a majority of the changes thru the view finder? I know the Cannon D10, you cannot see any changes thru the view finder, you have to take a shot, then look at the shot to see if any camera adjustments need to be made. I didn't know if the Nikon brand has this feature. Also, you said you shoot portraits too, do you shoot head shots, can you change the setting to shoot, color, B&W and Sepia?.....Thanks again for your help I also need it for my fine art photography and I need it to do great head shots, and I like to have complete control over the funcions...ie...manual shutter settings, aperature, exposure value, light settings, and i'd like it to have great auto white balance control
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Piper Lehman |
Marc, I'm not sure what changes you are expecting to see through the viewfinder. DSLR's work just like a regular film SLR as far as viewfinder information. As for color changes, I don't know of an DSLR that offers this through the VF. The D100 does not offer these on the LCD either, but then these options are generally thought best to be changed in PhotoShop, and not 'in-camera'. You can alter the colorization of images in-camera by using the 'wrong' WB for creative purposes. I use the 'wrong' WB to get a blue tint to my images, and it gives you the same look as using a filter with film. Ex: use the flash WB without flash, etc. Shooting it RAW is the best way to get creative, because you can and will refine exposure and WB in your RAW converter software after the shot. You will be able to choose and customize your white balance and other settings on the D100 as well as the Canons and any other Nikon DSLR. The customized 'pre-set' WB on the D100 is pretty good. You just have to remember to use a neutral gray when setting it! There is something to be said for not using any PS on your photos, but I don't believe it's a virtue in any way. I think most will agree that PS or some image manipulation is a given with digital imagery. In my opinion, PS is a necessity and extension tool to digital imaging. You should add PS to your digital purchase just as you would add a lens. You can't enjoy the full power of digital without it, in my opinion.
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Piper Lehman |
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Piper Lehman |
Example of colorization in PS http://www.pipershots.com/-/pipershots/detail.php?photoID=175610&cat=2125
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doug Nelson |
A caveat if you shoot a lot of wide angle work- the answer would be to shoot your 15, 20,s, 24's with film and scan the negs or slides. It is very expensive and tedious to try to adapt very wide lenses to the magnification factor of all DSLR's except the $8,000 Canon 1DS, which has a sensor the size of a 35mm frame. That full-size CMOS will probably filter down to a more affordable price. You might consider waiting. While you are waiting you could learn digital tonal and color correction, and image sizing in Photoshop with your scans.
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