 susanlgendron.com - Susan Gendron  Contact Susan Gendron Susan Gendron's Gallery |
Neutral Density Filters I have 3 different lenses and need to buy a ND filter for each. As I want to get the best I can afford, what gradient is recommended if I only plan to get one per? a 4? an 8? Thanks, Susan
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Mark Feldstein |
Howdy Susan: Why do you need ND filters, and do you want to use graduated or complete, what size diameter are the lenses you're planning on using these on? Are you planning on using these with a tripod? Are you talking perhaps about UV filters rather than ND or maybe a polarizer? How much have you got budgeted for this project, btw? Do you want Hoya good grade, Tiffen or want to perhaps go with B+W filters that have a brass retaining ring (good for working in cold temperatures) and Schott optical glass? Maybe you should do some reading on this subject here at BP doing a search up at the top right or over at Shutterbug.com. Or feel free to answer these questions I asked and we'll be glad to try and help you out.
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- Ken Smith Contact Ken Smith Ken Smith's Gallery |
Susan, if you're looking for a filter to protect the lens, one that you basically screw on and leave on the whole time, then I think you're referring to the UV filters. Otherwise, Mark's questions are the same ones I would have asked...
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Susan, I second Mark’s questioning regarding your perceived need for a ND filter. The ND is just that, a gray filter not unlike sunglasses mounted on your camera. The term ND (neutral density) means these filters attenuate all colors of the spectrum equally. Why do we mount such a filter? In portraiture, the classic concept is; eyes in focus, ears and nose out-of-focus. To achieve we must set our camera so that the aperture is at max opening i.e. wide-open. In some situations, the light level is too elevated to permit such a setting, thus we mount the ND filter. Other situations arise in scientific photography whereby we mount the ND. I will wager that the average photographer rarely encounters a situation whereby the ND is warranted. That being said, how strong do you need? One f/stop attenuation = 50% reduction = filter factor 2 = density 0.30 In my gadget bag is a 0.60 which has a filter factor of 4 which is 2 f/stops reduction. I think this strength is the most valuable. Others will no doubt acquaint you with the merits of a graduated ND used to enhance sky/clouds. For my money the most valuable filter remains the polarizing screen. Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
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susanlgendron.com - Susan Gendron Contact Susan Gendron Susan Gendron's Gallery |
Thanks, Alan, you answered my question. My filter diameters are 52mm, 58mm, and 77mm, and I need ND filters to do slower work in brighter light. I already have UV filters in place for protection and also polarizing filters for each. I just wasn't sure which factor was the most useful. Thanks.
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Mark Feldstein |
You need a Cokin P ring system with adapter rings for each lens size you've got. Instead of ND filters, you should get sky enhancer filters for color, or contrast enhancers, including UV or #45 Red for shooting cloud formations in b&w. NOT ND filters. I prefer the HiTech system, myself, there are other brands of these rigs as well. Or, you can spend a ton of money on different adapter step-down rings from your 78MM lens down to the smallest one you've got, different size hoods, and filters depending on your lens focal length (to avoid vignetting) or just go with a flexible, resin system like the Cokin, HiTech, B+W, and others. BTW, I have a 105mm hood that fits my medium format gear, the Hi Tech Ring/Holder accepts up to 4 filters and also fits my 35mm gear or view cameras. I carry one complete set of color enhancement /FX and contrast filters AND a bottle of resin cleaner, all in a single pouch on my bag.
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