 Julie Ray |
Settings for Indoor and Nightime Digital Shooting
Using: Canon 70-200mm f2.8 af usm lens The pics I have included have not been edited.
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Andy |
Can you give us the shooting data of those photos so we can work something out for you? For the first photo, basically you want to freeze the horse in mid air and blur the background. So a fast shutter speed and wide aperture combination works. But watch out for the maximum flash sync speed. The D30 and 1D has 1/200 and 1/500 max syn speed respectively. You would not want to set the shutter speed faster than the max sync speed. For the second and third photos, you may try the technique called "panning". Your camera follows the subject and blur the background with motion. You need a slow shutter speed this time, say, 1/60, 1/30 or even 1/15 of a second AND SET YOUR FLASH IN 2nd CURTAIN SYNC MODE. This needs some practice but it is not too hard. An Image Stablizing Lens would be a greap help. Hope this helps.
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Julie Ray |
Okay , the Exif info on the picture files is as follows: 1) Jumping pic. -1/160 sec shutter -F2.8 -AV setting (aperature priority) -1EV -800iso -200mm -247.07mm -Ettl flash 2) middle pic. Thanks so much for the immediate response, I am desperate and won't have time to take a class till later this year. I got my horse before my camera in my new business! thanks again!
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Andy |
If I interpret the data correctly from the first photo, you have already max out the ISO and aperture setting (ISO 800 and f2.8) and still did not get a shutter speed fast enough (1/250 or 1/500, the max sync speed since you are using a flash, depending on the camera you use) to freeze the action. The other option will be the same as photo 2 and 3, panning. If the exposure for all three photos are the same, max speed 1/160 (let's use 1/125), max aperture f2.8 and ISO 800, we have something to work on. Set your D30 or 1D's focusing mode to Al Servo AF (aren't you glad you have the EOS system?). This will allow you to focus, lock and track the subject (consult your camera's manual if you do not know how to use this mode). If I remember correctly, only the center focusing point is used in this mode and you will not see the square light up when it achieves focus. Press the shutter half way to focus and keep the shutter pressed half way when you are tracking the subject. Press the shutter fully when you are ready to take the picture. Here's the setting I will use: Focusing Mode: Al Servo AF Try a few times and see if this helps.
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Julie Ray |
Andy, I currently shoot in Al Servo and the ISO goes much higher than 800. The 1D can go to a ISO of 1600 and is expandable to 3200 and the shutter speed range is 1/16000 to 30 sec. I have been looking at my manual and it talks about the lower settings leaving a light trail behind the subject in 2nd curtian sync. I have my flash on ettl as recommended for it to communicate with the lens and camera. I dont remember the square lighting up when I use the above mode. But I was thinking the focusing point area was anything that stayed within the 45 point area. My subjects move erratically and change position rapidly going further and coming closer to me depending on how they are doing and which event I am shooting. Also I am am having issues with how I shoot shoot , Raw Tif or large fine jpg, and in which color setting srgb or adobe 98 rgb. It seems like post processing companies use the srgb mode. I just want to help my camera do all it can so in turn, so can I. I have a lot to learn but need to do that as I go. I have several nightime outdoor, events coming up and some daytime ones (is the flash good to use for them or is it not needed?)
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Andy |
About the Al Servo AF mode, now I have to dig out my 1v manual. It says, "Initial focusing on the subject is performed by the central focusing point alone. Once this is achieved, all 45 focusing points are ready to focus (when the 45-point automatic selection setting is chosen)." So you are right. As long as the subject stays within the 45 focusing points, the camera should track it for you. I don't have a 1D myself. But everyone recommend to store the data in the RAW/TIFF format for all the details. You can always delete the unwanted data and convert to other format later using PS or the software that came with the camera. Better yet, your 1D can save both RAW and JPEG format at the same time. For color, probably I will stick with the default (I think it's matrix 1) cause you can alter the color later. The other thing is the white balancing. You probably have to set to Tungsten or Fluorescent (or you may not have to because you are using a flash). Because you got the feedback right away, try a couple shot and see what is the best. For ISO, you want to set it as low as possible, usually no more than 400. I don't know if you can lock in the ISO. If you can, lock it to the one you want. That is why if the indoor is constantly and evenly lit, you can get the exposure reading beforehand and lock all the parameters up. Imaging you are tracking a dark color horse or a white horse. If you do not manually set up those parameters, the exposure may be off. Second curtain sync will leave a trail of the subject if the subject is moving and your camera is stationary. If you pan with the subject, the background objects (which are stationary) will leave a trail. If you don't want to see any blurry background and trail and you can get very close to the subject (like within 50 feet), you can try to set the camera's shooting mode to Tv (shutter speed priority) and set it to 500, your 1D's max sync speed. Try to concentrate on the subject only and eliminate as much background as possible because it will be very dark. Try different setting and experiment. Good luck.
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Julie Ray |
Andy, It seems like everything I read says that I should set the iso speed higher like over 800. And set the shutter speed at 1/100 or more. Is your advice the same for an outdoor nighttime event with stadium type lights or less?
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Andy |
I do not own a digital camera but I heard that the ISO should be kept to a smaller number for print quality issues. By all mean, try the different iso and shutter speed combination to achieve your goal. If one does not work, try another combination. You can see the result immediately. Just give yourself plenty of time before the main event to measure the exposure, shoot a couple test shot and decide what settings to use. And, of course, share your pictures here. I am not sure how different is the lighting of the rodeo arena and the stadium. Usually the sport events in the stadium are well lit (concerts may be different). Basically the techniques for measuring the exposure are the same. Other experts here may have more experience in shooting sports and they may give you some advices.
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Ron Burgis |
Welcome to the world of "SPORTS ACTION"! Not as easy as you thought.....You have to max out your ASA when necessary. Choose your spots where you as close as possible to the action you want to shoot. Sometimes you have shut off the flash and use a monopod and pan. If you use "Rear Curtain" flash sync you need a slower shutter speed to allow some blur with the flash going off to make a solid image (takes practice). You have the equipment necessary, just keep shooting! Ron www.brphoto.photoreflect.com
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Michelle Marsan |
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