 Lisa Miller |
Photographing Large Groups: Focus Issues When photographing large groups, sometimes I have a hard time getting all of the people in focus. Any tips? It's digital SLR. Thanks!
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Lisa, Your problem most likely revolves around depth-of-field, which is that span that remains in acceptable focus. The span extends both towards the camera and away from the camera as measured from the point focused upon. You need to know that this zone is not split down the middle but extends 2/3 further away from and 1/3 towards the camera. To maximize depth-of-field, try not to focus on the center row, instead focus on the next row that is closer to the camera. You can compose and focus on an individual in this row and lock focus by partially depressing the shutter release. With this pressure maintained, you re-compose and then complete the shutter release action. This maximizes the depth-of-field span. - For large groups, it is advisable to set the rows as curves rather than straight lines. This reduces the camera-to-subject distance for those at the end of the row. This simple act equalizes somewhat the subject distances, thus it maximizes the depth-of-field zone. - Depth-of-field significantly increases when your camera is set to the smaller apertures. - Select a slower shutter speed when shooting groups. - Selecting a higher ISO setting will also force the use of the smaller apertures, thus expanding the depth-of-field zone. Sometimes poor focus is actually camera movement. When possible, use a tripod or other stable mount. A cable shutter release is an asset as well as the self-timer function. Both minimize camera shake caused by a heavy handed photographer. Overall subject-to-camera distance is a major factor. Just stepping back increases this distance and depth-of-field increases too. This is accomplished by leaving room on both ends when composing. Setting the zoom to a shorter focal length also expands the depth-of-field zone. One or more of the above can be employed to solve your problem. Alan Marcus
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Lisa Miller |
Thank you for your response! I tried these techniques (a combination of a few of them) and it was a huge help. Thanks for your time and for sharing your knowledge! - Lisa
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GEORGE VIVANCO |
Alan, great tips. My question is if you at the beach with a group of people say 15-20 what ISO and shutter speed would be best mid day sunny? I know sometimes you have to take some test shoot but, I ill be with a class of 4th graders and they my not stane still for more than a few seconds. Any advice would be great.
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi again Lisa, Digital cameras have a sensitivity setting that is a good imitator of film speed known as ISO (French spelling) English translation International Standards Organization. Now most digitals allow you to select starting at 100 and going up quite high. Best performance is realized at the lowest. As you bump sensitivity up you increase what is known as signal-to-noise-ratio. Kind of like turning up the sound on your audio device. Yes the sound gets louder but you also amplify static and other defects present. As you turn the knob up, soon you will hear hisses and pops. The more the volume is upped, the elegance erodes as the noise becomes all that more noticeable. The moral of the story, don’t turn the sensitivity up unless needed. At the beach, in daylight use the lower sensitivity setting i.e. 100 speed. Now at the beach, with a large group your problems are over. It’s a slam dunk. Fist you must step back to gain the necessary distance to enscopes all. The act of stepping back is sufficient to gain the necessary depth-of-field. Depth-of-field is as much a function of subject to camera distance as any other ingredient. The other factors are focal length. The shorter the focal length the greater the depth of filed. Thus using a short lens setting allows you to get closer. Consider, if you used a normal or longer lens setting you would need to step back. Longer is better in this case as distance is good as it expands the span of dept-of-field. Using a tiny f/number like f/11 or f/16 causes the depth-of-field span to increase. So a moderate shutter speed like 1/125 of a second forces a tiny opening (aperture). At the beach in sunlight, the aperture will be automatically be tiny thus this act will give you the needed dept-of-field. The 1/25th will be just fine to arrest subject and camera motion. OK to group in rows as this will allow you to get a little closer than with just one row. This The idea is to gain a head size that will allow the parents to recognize their kids. Curve the rows at the edges, towards the camera, slightly, this will equalize distance, camera-to-subject, kind of like a curved screen motion picture screen keeps the edges in focus. Focus on center of group but not the middle row; choose the next one closer row to you the photographer. Depth-of-field carriers further to the rear so this technique maximizes depth-of-field. OK to be too far back with room on both sides of the viewfinder as you can alwasys crop and compse when the prints are made. This medthod expands depth-of-field. Above all, don’t worry; a group shot at the beach is a piece of cake. However, bright sun will give too deep shadows and facial features will be lost. Hope for an overcast day, this is your best bet. Best of luck,
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Alan N. Marcus |
Correction: The 1/25th will be just fine to arrest subject and camera motion. Should read:
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