Untitled

© Kristin Duff

Untitled

Uploaded: March 03, 2012

Description

Exif: F Number: 6.3, Exposure Bias Value: 0.00, ExposureTime: 1/200 seconds, Flash: did not fire, compulsory flash mode, ISO: 200, White balance: Manual white balance, FocalLength: 55.00 mm, Model: Canon EOS REBEL T3i

Comments

Kristin Duff March 03, 2012

Could someone please tell me how to photograph the colour red accurately? I have tried switching from F to Neutral, up a stop, down a stop and it never comes out the way I see it. Tried cloudy days, early sun, late sun... I know it can be done, I just don't know how...any suggestions? thanks in advance! #1447210

Stephen Shoff March 03, 2012

Disclaimer: I've never tried this before, Phellos, so if I'm way off the mark here, please let me know

Kristin, first off, I thought the colors in this picture were pretty good. If anything, the red might be a little desaturated. I've learned in the last couple of years as I've started taking flower images that there is much more variance in colors than I had ever realized, so I don't know what color you expected this red to be. I thought you did a great job of bringing out the yellow of the pollen.

I copied your picture into Photoshop and looked at the histogram. It was way off the chart in both directions. If this was a valid way of looking at this, it suggests two things to me:
-- the picture is overexposed, so colors will appear desaturated (that wasn't obvious to me just looking at your post. I thought the exposure was pretty typical for a bright, sunlit day.)
-- the scene had too wide of an exposure range for the camera to capture all the colors and tones accurately (typical for bright, sunlit scenes).

So my first recommendation on this would be to check your histogram while you are taking the picture. If it is off the right side, you are overexposed and you use the exposure compensation (if you are in any automatic mode) to bring it down. That would make the reds (and greens) richer but lose detail in the background shadows.

To deal with the exposure range, I tend to use a polarizer rain or shine, and especially anytime when I want good color. It can reduce highlights (with corresponding reduction in the image's overall exposure range) on reflected surfaces like flowers so the true colors show through better.

If you've captured this as a RAW image, the Adobe Camera Raw component of your PSE has adjustments for both exposure and for "recovery" that might help pull some of the color out.

There are a lot of other things that could be brought up, but this seems to be the most specific to this image. #10020455

Kristin Duff March 03, 2012

It was shot in JPEG Stephen, and I did not have my polarizer filter on, so maybe that is something I could try. Nor did I check my histogram, which I should get in the habit of doing more often. I was shooting in program mode for this photo. And believe it or not this photo was taken at about 8 am. I tried it once with a white balance of daylight and one on cloudy but that made the flower too orange. RAW and photoshop are next on my list of things to learn. I guess my question should have addressed getting it right in the camera before post production. But I will definitely try the polarizer as a means of getting that nice rich red. I loved the way the sunlight lit up the petals veination and that is really what I was trying to capture. so thank you! #10020504

Dale Hardin March 03, 2012

Excellent advice Stephen. And Kristin, we all know that it is near impossible to pass up a Hibiscus and not take a photo of it. :o) #10020707

Jeff E Jensen March 03, 2012

Yup, Stephen has some good advice. #10020716

Aimee C. Eisaman March 04, 2012

You had a very difficult lighting situation to deal with here. Stephen has some good ideas for you. I don't do much with nailing exposure and color in camera esp. since I shoot in RAW I do alot of editing and almost always take a creative approach instead of realistic. :~) BTW I really like the composition of this with the green leafy branch leading the eye in from the corner. #10021132

Kristin Duff March 04, 2012

Thank you all, I am going back in 2 weeks, so I will try all these suggestions and repost when I have tried it again. #10021250

Michael Kelly level-classic March 04, 2012

Kristin, just to confuse things I disagree with a lot of what Stephen said.

First of all, your question about shooting red is a very good one. It seems that modern digital cameras tend to capture red and yellows more intensely than other colors. This is just the way they work and in order to correct for it. In most cases you have to do it in post processing. In order to do this you just need to desaturate those channels slightly. You can also use the darken slider in the channels adjustment tool to good effect.

Unless the light is right using a polarizing filter is almost the same as using a neutral density filter. Polarizing filters have their place and you have to look for the light coming in from a 90° angle or close to it in order for them to have a positive effect. Other than that, all you generally do is reduce your shooting speed or f-stop. I am not saying you shouldn't try polarizing filter, but try it, and don't put it on your camera all the time. In many cases you will lose more than you will gain.

In this shot, while it is just slightly overexposed and would be a lot easier to get back as a raw image, you can still use the recovery slider to bring it back if you edit your JPEG and raw. I see both the yellow and red channels being slightly oversaturated and a reduction in these in Photoshop will also help. An 8 x 10 crop taking everything off the left would also help with the comp on this one.

So to sum up: I think this is oversaturated rather than under saturated. I think trying a polarizing filter is a good idea but shouldn't be overdone. Almost everything as a wider exposure range than a camera will capture, so that's not a real issue. To capture reds you almost always have to desaturate them in postprocessing. Do check your histogram and be prepared to adjust your exposure in any situation.
#10021363

Stephen Shoff March 04, 2012

Mike has often made a convincing case about the hyper-sensitivity of the sensors to red and yellow. I don't at all discount his explanation. You will see that behavior in the histogram in the camera. I didn't include this possibility only because I was going to let him present it. He does it well.

He has also often presented opening the JPG file in ACR in order to use the recovery slider. If you are ready to start using ACR, that will help, too. (I've started incorporating that into my own workflow on those few occasions where I am starting with a JPG file.)

So if his saturation adjustments deal with the "off the ends" of the histogram, good! #10021765

Debbie E. Payne March 04, 2012

Kristin, I am with you . I think you need a more red red. You might have gotten it with a polarizer but I agree with Michael that you use a polarizer you lose at least one stop of light and you risk getting slies that are too blue. Can I ask why you are using jpeg over Raw #10021921

Dale Hardin March 04, 2012

I would guess that she is not using raw because up until now she had not had raw editing software. Once she gets up to speed on PSE I think we'll see a change. #10021944

Debbie E. Payne March 04, 2012

Good reason. I thought you had PSE for some reason. A couple years back I was holding on to jpeg when I should have been using Raw. I was worried about large files but was finally convinced when I went to a National Geo seminar and was talking to the speaker about what I should be using. It was a large learning curve but well worth it in the long run. Extra memory is getting cheaper and cheaper !
#10021959

Beth Spencer March 04, 2012

I think everyone has offered you a lot of really great suggestions. I don't think I can add anything else. I do like the composition on this one. #10021970

Kristin Duff March 04, 2012

Dale is right Debbie, still shooting in JPEG but will make the transition once I have an idea of what the heck I am doing... I am still learning my camera's various functions. And like yourself at that seminar, I am in a huge learning curve right now. It's all a process. #10022050

Michael Kelly level-classic March 04, 2012

Kristin just so you know many camera settings only impact jpeg so no need to learn some of those if you shoot RAW. I am talking about picture style settings mostly. #10022069

Debbra Bailey March 05, 2012

Hmm - no new critique to add to this!

On the positive, I like how the lines of the leaves continue as shadows on the flower! #10023212

Rita K. Connell level-classic March 05, 2012

what a lovely image Kristin, I also like the leading lines of the leaf, the clarity if very nice.

I believe you have gotten some great advise shooting using your histogram is really helpful. when I first started shooting raw I set my camera on raw and jeg more for a comfort than anything else but I quickly could see the difference by seeing them side by side. I don't think it will take you long now that you have PSE and you can see how much you can edit in raw. #10023439

Kristin Duff March 05, 2012

Course starts April 10th people, and then I will probably have a lot of questions, Dale is exempt. I will be asking him a lot of questions as soon as I get his tutorial DVD. #10023469

Teresa H. Hunt March 06, 2012

Kristin, you've gotten some great advice. I only have one thing to add when shooting red. Hopefully it won't confuse you more. I discoverd I can change my histogram to see the color ranges . . . I'll do that when shooting red to make sure I don't over/under expose the color. I don't know if your camera allows for that info with the histogram or not, but it's worth looking into #10026070

Kristin Duff March 06, 2012

Thanks Teresa, yes I can do that in my camers and I just checked the histogram. The histogram looks ok but I still am not happy with the colour in this one...so I am going to have to go back and try again! #10026214

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