 Velden Gc |
how to evoid yellow slides? I'm documenting drawings and paintings on slides(6x6). Im using studio lights and tungsten film( ektachrome 64T). Do I still need to use a blue filter for my hasselblad, in order to evoid yellow light? thanks Gwen
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Mark Feldstein |
No, if you're using tungsten filj instead of daylight balanced transparency film, then you don't need a color temp correcting filter like an 85B. But you've got another problem to contend with along those lines assuming that the color reproduction needs to be true to the art work. The problem is that as the filaments in your tungsten lights burn (wear down, so-to-speak) they change temperature and burn at less than 3500-3600 degrees kelvin. As that happens, and there's no set rule for how much time a light needs to burn for that to occur, then your lights are burning cooler and you may actually need a color correction filter to bring them back up to 35-3600k. So, when you get your tungsten film back, you may in fact notice that they're gradually bluer (cooler) rather than yellow. The only way to tell for sure is to use a color temperature meter to measure your light output temp as you work and then correct as you go along. BUT, if you use studio strobes with UV corrected flash tubes (to prevent organic pigments in paints, for example, from flourescing) rather than hot lights, rated for 5500 degrees kelvin, shoot daylight slide film and rock and roll without the headaches of color temp correction. You can rent strobes at any number of places, including out of state and have them sent 2U via UPS for pretty reasonable prices. Regardless of what kind of lighting you use, you should place a color correction card in each shot so that if you get this work printed, the lab can find a reference point for color balance. AND....if you ARE going to get this stuff printed, shoot transparency film and then change magazines to color negative film (all with a color card). BTW, on your Hassie, use the prerelease mirror lock-up to prevent camera shake during your exposures unless you're working at a really high speed, say above 1/250. Take it light.
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Velden Gc |
Wauw! that was really fast mark! Thanks a lot though for the info. The slides will be for representation, so I won't be printing them for photo's. I just read a lot about different lightning and am contemplating to buy lights as documentation is a most. The work is black inkt on white paper and i'm using a black velvety backdrop. Im going to shoot later on. I guess most of the knowledge is trial and error. I've found a shop nearby who has also strobe lights and umbrella's( to soften things up a bit). Anyway thanks again for the quick respond.Gwen
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Mark Feldstein |
Hi Gwen: I( happened to be in the neighborhood this morning. Umbrellas with strobe is usually the way I shoot flat art work and yeah, trial and error experience helps a lot assuming experience is the best teacher. :>) I'd stick with the strobes so your paper doesn't appeared yellowed. And to do that, just place two lights in two umbrellas, each positioned at 45 degrees to the centerline of your camera position. Make sure your art work is perfectly vertical (use a level), plumb square and level to your camera, which also needs to be leveled to the work. Use as close to a normal medium format lens as possible, somewhere between say 80mm and 150. (I like the Zeiss 100 f3.5. And there you have it.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
"So, when you get your tungsten film back, you may in fact notice that they're gradually bluer (cooler) rather than yellow." If the color temp of the light kept going down below common tungsten temp, wouldn't the tungsten balanced slides get more yellow, instead of blue?
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Mark Feldstein |
Yep, Greg. You're absolutely right. As the light source temp goes down tungsten film appears more yellow, which is what I meant to say. (I think) LOL !!! Thanks for pointing that out. M.
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