The weekly newsletter on the art of photography from
Monday, November 10, 2008
Featured Gallery
Welcome Note
This Week's Tip
Updates From BetterPhoto
Q&A 1: Metal Tabs on Fil...
Q&A 2: Loading ICC Profi...
Q&A 3: A Good Lens for B...
Q&A 4: Artist Techniques...

"Excellent course! With Jim Zuckerman's expertise and guidance, it allows the casual Photoshop user to expand their horizons and be creative with images. His lessons are very clear and easy to understand, his examples are excellent and his critiques really make the student strive for that 'perfect' accomplishment." -Laurie Watts in Photoshop: Creative Techniques

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Check out Jim Miotke's awesome new book: The BetterPhoto Guide to Photographing Children.

Our Deluxe and Pro BetterPholios are great ways to show - or sell - your photography. Plus, our monthly newsletter for BetterPholio owners offers tips and updates. Compare the options...

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Shoot More Verticals! ... by Peter K. Burian
Most every camera is designed for the greatest comfort and ease of use when held in a horizontal orientation. Even so, professional photographers generally shoot more vertical than horizontal frames, except for those specializing in landscapes and certain types of sports.
That's because magazines, books, many posters and engagement calendars are vertical. But even if you're a photo enthusiast, plan to shoot more vertical images. No matter what type of outdoor photography you enjoy, it's well worth consciously forcing yourself to adopt this position - because some 50% of situations will lend themselves ideally to a vertical frame.
Buildings, mountains, lighthouses, people, head-and-shoulder portrait subjects, flowers, and trees are all vertical in nature. Even with other subject types, try some imagination and make a few vertical frames as well.
More "active" than the "passive" horizontal, these may very well become your favorites from any outing. My own stock portfolio now consists of 60% vertical frames, confirming that such composition can be suitable for the majority of subject types.
Editor's Note: Peter Burian teaches the excellent Mastering the Digital Camera and Photography online course at BetterPhoto.

Featured Gallery
Arizona Dreaming
© - Jay Patel

Welcome to the 394th issue of SnapShot!

Are you looking for direct interaction with master photographers? Personal feedback? A flexible method of instruction? Our online courses have it all! And it's not too late to enroll in a November class. If you sign up for one of our 8-week online courses today, we will send you the first lesson pronto. Then you will have plenty of time to do the first assignment, which isn't even due until Sunday, Nov. 16th! ... In this issue of SnapShot, we have our usual fine features, including another fine collection of questions and answers. Plus, take a look at Peter Burian's Weekly Photo Tip for some very valuable shooting advice! ... That's it for now. Have a great week of photography!

Jim Miotke
Where Is Jim?

Updates From BetterPhoto

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Photo Q&A

1: Metal Tabs on Film Lenses
Hello, I am wondering what the metal tabs on film lenses are?
- Kevin BurnsSee Sample Photo - mysterious tab

Hi Kevin,
When I went to Korea as a photo officer for the 5th US Air Force, my personal camera was a Nikon SP. It was likely the most sophisticated rangefinder camera ever made. Soon I acquired a Nikon F, which was the first SLR of the Nikon line. I had a gadget bag full of lenses for it, all of which sported a mechanical coupling lens to body. The shoe you are asking about engaged a pin on the light meter. I think I recall that the meter was an add-on and that the Nikon F was meterless. Anyway, as you rotated the lens aperture ring, the position of the shoe moved in unison with the ring. This linkage reported to the meter the pre-set aperture you selected.
Say you mounted a f/1.4 lens. You pre-set the aperture to say f/8. The linkage told the meter you had selected f/8. The actual aperture of the lens did not change; it remained wide open at f/1.4. This kept the view through the SLR optics bright and killed depth-of-field for more accurate focusing. The meter now informed you via a needle movement as to the exposure situation. You pressed the go button, the aperture stopped down to the pre-set, the mirror flipped up, the shutter traveled open then closed. The viewfinder blinked, the mirror and aperture returned to the viewing position.
It was great. I thought it would never end!
Alan Marcus (marginal technical nonsense)
- Alan N. Marcus
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2: Loading ICC Profiles
I'm trying to load non-Epson ICC profiles that I've downloaded from paper manufacturers, but I can't figure out how to do it. I'm working with a Power Mac G5 with OSX 10.4.11 and an EPSON 3800. I use Aperture.
- Robert B. Cudney
Do use care when trying this sort of thing. Profiles are oft provided, but not oft supported well, and they may lead to confusing and even horrible results if used incorrectly.
I don't use Aperture or I'd provide more information. For the most part I would only use the ICC profile for previewing/on screen proofing...unless a service is specifically asking for images with custom printing profiles embedded. Even for on-screen proofing, I think it is of limited utility to use ICC profiles. Far better to get a good handle on simple color management principles and set up your workflow for success. I can safely assume what I see on screen is a reasonably good estimation of what I'll get in print because of the way I work with color.
I guess what is even more important to be sure this isn't going completely down the wrong path: what are you trying to accomplish?
- Richard Lynch

See Richard Lynch's Basic BetterPholio™:

Take an Online PhotoCourse™ with Richard Lynch:
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I have to agree with Richard on this one. Further, "mix & match" ICC profiles often cause more damage than they are worth. I would avoid them.
Epson has a wide array of ICC profiles that match your 3800, so I see no need to adopt (non-compliant) files.
To your specific question:
I don't use Aperture either; generally the ICC Profile is loaded into a folder within the editing program itself. Do not change the name of the file. Generally; after downloading a profile,I simply drag & drop the new profile to the folder where ALL profiles reside within my editor.
As an aside, Robert, don't be overly concerned over ICC Profiles. The numbers may tell you the colors are accurate and serve as a starting point; but I have never been satisfied with final output from ANY Profile. I almost always have to tweak, etc.
Most of my printed work is done at pro labs. They have a "profile" on file for me. Notice I said "ME". Although I started with a baseline profile, it has been tweaked for what I like.
Adding to the confusion, when I order 8x10's and 16x20's of the exact same image, I use a different profile for each size!
Bottom line? Stick with profiles written for your printer.
- Pete H
Thank you Pete and Richard. I actually tried this and the results were very good simply using the EPSON premium luster setting.
- Robert B. Cudney
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3: A Good Lens for Boxing
Looking for a lens for photographing boxing matches. I shoot with a Nikon D200, and Nikon's 50mm 1.4 and Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 lenses. I don't like the results - too dark. I need to zoom from wide for close-ups and tight for shooting across the ring, and still have enough light and speed to get the good shot. I shoot at ring side, which makes the ropes an issue.
- Jorge  E. Saenz
Hello Jorge,
What ISO setting are you shooting at? I would think the 70-200 would work for your needs (being able to zoom) if you have your ISO high enough. The 50mm f/1.4 should work great - I use mine for very low light clubs and concerts with no problems although I do have to push my ISO to 800 or 1600 sometimes.
- Carlton Ward
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4: Artist Techniques in Photoshop
As a photographer, I'm taking a watercolor art class to learn about artistic techniques. I complete the assignments with my photographs. I'm looking for a book, tutorial, or workshop from a paint artist's point of view that describes how to create artistic effects to my photographs in Photoshop. For example, watercolor artists talk about creating a wash - how do you do that in PS? Or, some artists draw a "value sketch" before they start painting - what's the PS equivalent? The PS materials I've seen so far provide technical guidance, but I'm looking for artistic guidance, using PS instead of a brush and paint. Any suggestions?
- Marcia L. Getto
Check out PainterX by Corel. It's great for this application.
- Leslie J. Morris
Hello Marcia,
I agree with Leslie about Corel Painter & a Wacom tablet (I use the Intous3 - 6 x 8 tablet). It is a fun and incredible program and you get lots of brush & effect options. Carlton

Editor's Note: Also check out Jim Zuckerman's excellent online course: Making Masterpieces with Corel Painter

- Carlton Ward
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