The weekly newsletter on the art of photography from
Monday, June 23, 2008
Featured Gallery
Welcome Note
This Week's Tip
Updates From BetterPhoto
Q&A 1: JPEG: Generation ...
Q&A 2: Flash Photography...
Q&A 3: Portable Backdrop...
Q&A 4: Photo Processors...
Q&A 5: How to Sell My Ph...

"What makes this class really unique is that John works with each student individually and helps him/her to choose and use the right tools depending on their goals. It is really rare to work with an instructor who is so knowledgeable and willing to share so much. Thank you, John!!" -student in John Siskin's Understanding the Tools of Photography Lighting course

Photographer's Edge features a complete line of do-it-yourself Photo Frame Greeting Cards for all types of photographers and subjects. Visit Photographer's Edge...

Hunt's is a top retailer of photography gear and a trusted BetterPhoto partner. Each month, Hunt's offers specials just for BP members! Check out the latest deals...

Would you like to show - or sell - your photos in an extremely sleek and cool way? Our great-looking Web sites - Deluxe and Pro BetterPholios - are quick to set up and easy to maintain!

Get word of your product or service out to a rapidly growing list of over 66767 serious photographers.
Learn More...

Portrait Photography - Shoot a Lot! ... with Ibarionex R. Perello
Most photographers simply don't take enough images when shooting portraits, says instructor Ibarionex Perello, who shared his thoughts at the 2007 BetterPhoto Summit. He takes a minimum of 100 to 150 pictures for a portrait session. The reason? As time goes on, both subject and photographer become more comfortable working together. The proof? Ibarionex finds that his best images almost always come near the end of the session!
Editor's Note: Ibarionex Perello teaches the popular Portrait Photography Using Available Light and Posing and Portraiture Techniques courses here at BP

Featured Gallery
And to's not even high tide!
© - Jacqualyn A. Volker

Welcome to the 374th issue of SnapShot!

Now's the time to take your photography - or Photoshop - to the next level! Our July online school session begins next week (on the 2nd), and we have many awesome 8-week classes and 4-week classes from which to choose. ... If you need help deciding on the class that's best for you, then check out our extremely cool CourseFinder. ... Also, we are really proud of our virtual classroom, so if you don't know how these courses work, then take a quick tour ... In the market for fun and prizes? Then check out the BetterPhoto Quick Keyworder Game! Just click on the Win Big Points graphic on the Welcome page of your Member Center (note: for BetterPholio owners or student alumni). Top score wins 50% off a photography course or BetterPholio! Next award ceremony: August 1st. ... That's it for now. Enjoy your week of photography!

Jim Miotke
Where Is Jim?

Updates From BetterPhoto

Imagine getting direct feedback on your photos from a famous professional photographer - regardless of where you live! Our online photography courses give you personal interaction with successful pros and published authors. But act now, since school starts July 2nd! See our school schedule... At BetterPhoto, we are grateful for the support of BetterPhoto's Cash Contest. But we have decided to place the Cash Contest on hold at the end of this month. If you have unused credits, please use them up by entering between now and the Cash Contest's last day: Monday, June 30th. Thank you! We now offer the convenience of a payment plan for all of our online classes.

Photo Q&A

1: JPEG: Generation Loss?
A friend told me that if I copy images from memory card to computer and then write to cd / dvd, it will cause generation loss and, not only that, the same thing if I review images on the camera back (camera Lcd). Is that true? Thanks.
- Subhajit Dutta, THIRD EYE, KOLKATA
If you upload your JPEG images from camera or memory to computer and then copy [write them] to CD/DVD, there will be no loss of quality. If you edit JPEGs, there is the probability of quality loss - it's the nature of the JPEG format. There will be no loss of quality of Raw files because, for all practical purposes, there's no way to edit them and save them in the Raw file format. Normally, you'd change the format to JPEG, TIFF or DNG.
- John Sandstedt
MOVE or COPY = no loss.
OPEN and CLOSE w/o changes = no loss.
OPEN and SAVE = compression and losses even if no changes are made.
- Jon Close
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2: Flash Photography: Preventing Red Eye
When I try to shoot indoors with my long-range lens from any distance, I get red eye. I am unsure how to stop this. I am using a D70 with a AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1:2.8 ED lens. Thanks.
- Chris Michaels
Hi Chris,
Red-eye has little to do with lens; either focal length (zoom position) or aperture (f/number like f/2.8 etc.). Red-eye reduction is achieved by separating the flash from the camera. To accomplish this, you will need a flash unit capable to be dismounted from the camera. Additionally, you will need an interconnecting cord, flash-to-camera sync cord, long enough to accommodate two to three feet separation.
An added benefit will be realized when the flash is dismounted, that facial shadows become more distinctive, giving an illusion of depth i.e. three dimension effect.
Other countermeasures: Use bounce flash. Flash is directed at the ceiling, this gives the necessary separation plus shadows are softened by the vast expanse of the ceiling reflection.
Your camera likely has built-in countermeasures. Red-eye mitigation is accomplished by a pre-flash. A short duration flash of low power precedes the main flash. The pre-flash is bright enough to cause the subject’s eyes to contract. With the pupils contracted to a tiny circle, the odds of red-eye are reduced. Likely your camera features red-eye reduction, check your camera manual.
Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
- Alan N. Marcus
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3: Portable Backdrop Stand
I just purchased a portable backdrop stand that I need to use for an outdoor shoot next weekend. I set it up yesterday, which was extremely easy to do. My problem is that it is so lightweight that it kept falling over due to the wind. Any suggestions?? Thanks!
- Krista BonAmour
Sand bags. You could use the ones for a flood, but there are refillable bags from camera retailers. The problem is that a large background will act like a sail outdoors, so sometimes you need very heavy duty-stands to use for a background. Consider C-Stands for such use, also called "century stands".
Thanks, John Siskin
- John H. Siskin

See John Siskin's Premium BetterPholio™:

Take an Online PhotoCourse™ with John Siskin:
4-Week Short Course: Portrait Photography Lighting on Location and in the Studio
4-Week Short Course: Understanding the Tools of Photography Lighting
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4: Photo Processors
I have recently been getting my prints made at Costco. Their quality is good, and their prices are unmatched by anyone I've seen yet. The only problem is that the prints always appear darker then my JPEG file. The Costco representative told me that to resolve this problem I need to calibrate my monitor to their printer. They showed me a Web site that I could use to get it down. However, it's very confusing. Isn't there another way to resolve this? Any help out there?
The question of getting prints to match is a heady one ... one that I answer all the time in my From Monitor to Print course ... And books are written on the subject of color management spanning 500 pages. That is, a short response here won't do it all for you. However, the important things:

- Calibrate your monitor
- Create a custom ICC profile (usually part of #1)
- Decide on a sensible workflow (handling of color and color spaces from camera to print)
- Make the most of your corrections (correct your images to look their best)
- Embed your working space profile (some suggest specific printer profiles or other things, but generally these would only be helpful in situations where you have converted to CMYK)
- TEST. Don't go right for that 28x20 print ... get the service to print 3x5 or 5x7s as a test on the SAME MACHINE.

Each service will be a bit different, as will each paper and each machine they use.
As Alan says, there are inherent differences in CMYK and RGB, and you see in one and generally (with variations) print in the other. You will not get them to be identical, but you can get them pretty close with "normal" images. I like the idea and results I get with Laser Light printers (also sometimes called LED or CRT), which project light to expose paper which is then run through a photographic process ... no ink. The printers themselves are really expensive and you wouldn't likely own one, but services often do and can make your inkless prints for a bargain.
A lot of what you hear about working spaces and profiles is junk. Your workflow needs to make sense more than conform to sRGB, AdobeRGB, ProRGB, or whatever. It is often the "making sense"' part that people leave behind as it is the biggest pain.
I calibrate with a hardware device on any machine I correct images on ... I use a ColorVision Spyder. You can get away with the Express model.
About changing images to get better results in print independent of the way they look on the monitor ... I suggest trying to avoid that, and using it only as a last resort. There are lots of services and some will be better than others - regretfully better on certain days (depending on the technicians).
Hope that helps.
Richard Lynch

PS - I'm taking a few months off from teaching BetterPhoto courses, but will be back in September!

- Richard Lynch

See Richard Lynch's Premium BetterPholio™:

Take an Online PhotoCourse™ with Richard Lynch:
4-Week Short Course: Correct and Enhance Your Images
4-Week Short Course: From Monitor to Print: Photoshop Color Workflow
4-Week Short Course: Photoshop 101: The Photoshop Essentials Primer
Leveraging Layers: Photoshop's Most Powerful Tool
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5: How to Sell My Photos As Fine Art Prints?
I want to sell my photos as art that people could buy and display in their homes. How would I go about advertising or setting up in a business? Thanks.
- Megan Wise
Megan, I looked at your galleries on your Deluxe BetterPhoto site. Your images are excellent, and your understanding of light and composition is right on. You seem to have specialized in still life and florals, so stick with what you love to shoot.
Here's my advice on your question: Join a local art association or guild. Make sure the organization isn't a gathering for crafters, but a true arts organization.
Walk into galleries and talk to the operator before asking if they would give you a few moments to look at your portfolio. Keep it to a collection of your best dozen or so shots - actual matted prints.
I recommend you use quality, archival matting, backing materials and methods in mounting your work.
Participate in the "big" art festivals from your art association (once you are a member).
Don't expect to set the world on fire. It takes time to establish your reputation in the art community.
I just finished a 3-day festival today and sold a few pieces. But the best outcome was a winning piece in the juried competition and the Platinum Purchase award from the hosts for the juried piece.
Good luck,
- John Rhodes
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