Tuesday, January 01, 2008

IN THIS ISSUE

TESTIMONIAL OF THE WEEK

FEATURED COURSE: REVEALING YOUR PERSONAL VISION

Learn creative compositional techniques to move your photography to the next level in Tony Sweet's outstanding 8-week course: Image Design: Revealing Your Personal Vision.

BP WEB SITES: LOOK GREAT, SOUND GREAT!

Our Deluxe and Pro BetterPholios now have the option of streaming music! These Web sites are easy to set up and easy to maintain, and have many excellent design options. Learn more...

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Read our BetterBlogs: Instructor Insights, Digital Photo Blog, and the BetterPhoto Girls Blog!

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THIS WEEK'S TIP

Viewfinder Shooting Strategy! ... by Kerry Drager

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Featured Gallery

© - Christopher J. Budny

Updates From BetterPhoto

Photo Q&A

1: Studio Backgrounds

I am considering opening a storefront portrait studio. Any advice on a digital studio (greenscreen) vs. a studio with all the props and backgrounds?

ANSWER 1:

Have you shot with a greenscreen or backgrounds? I purchased a greenscreen, backgrounds, and lights a while back to experiment at home. But after developing my own style more, I decided that's not the direction I want to take my photography, so I sold it all.
I recommend getting a greenscreen and a few different backgrounds to experiment with ... or better yet, there are some studios that rent to local photographers by the hour or day. Use their backgrounds and lights, and see if this works for you.
But back to your specific question - I would go with the backgrounds and props. You'll save yourself a ton of time editing photos, and you can put more of that money back into purchasing backgrounds.

ANSWER 2:

Hi Beth,
I often use a medium grey fabric background. I change the way it photographs, by moving my subject in relation to the background (and the subject lights). Then I can change the color of the background with a gel over the light for the background. You can make your own backgrounds also! I have an article here at BetterPhoto about that: www.betterphoto.com/article.asp?id=176
Thanks,
John
P.S.: Don’t forget insurance and a business license!

2: Very Hot Camera Batteries

My camera (Minolta Maxxum 5000) quit working. I've noticed that the battery pack gets very hot ... so hot that the batteries are untouchable. Has anyone ever had this kind of problem? Can anyone advise me what to do? Thanks!

ANSWER 1:

Overheating of the batteries is due to either faulty batteries (try replacing them), or perhaps a problem in the camera that it is attempting to draw too much current from them.

3: Learning Photoshop Elements 6

My wife bought me PSE 6 for Christmas. I've never ran any Adobe Photoshop software before, so - needless to say - when I opened it to play around with some pictures, I felt a bit overwhelmed. Could someone direct me to a Web site, book or other means of learning what appears to be an impressive tool. I plan to just play with some images and see what happens, but some targeted step-by-step instruction I'm sure would be beneficial. Thanks again.

ANSWER 1:

Whatever you do to your photos, do it to a COPY of the original(s)! Then, if something goes wrong, you can start again and you haven't ruined or lost anything. Have fun!

ANSWER 2:

I teach an introduction to Photoshop and Photoshop Elements (works for versions 3-6) right here at BetterPhoto:
Photoshop 101: the Photoshop Essentials Primer.
The advantage of courses - especially at the beginner's stage - is the ability to ask questions directly, which you can't in a book or video. Books, in my opinion, can be a great option when you have a budget-conscious approach. While they may be less expensive, they will also probably not get you up and running as quickly.
I suggest approaching it with small goals in mind. Open a picture or two and decide what you want to do (color correct? convert to black-and-white? clean up dust? crop?) and look for tutorials that help with those specific tasks. Don't forget there is a Help menu that tells you how to use the tools. Try to avoid working on huge manipulations ("gee, that dog would look better as a goat facing in the other direction!"). Often new users want to do spectacular things, and the level of difficulty they set for the tasks makes them discouraged with the result.
And as WS says, work on copies!
Richard Lynch

4: Taking Better Bird Photos

I like to take bird pictures ... which lens would be best? The problem is the birds are afraid and far away. What is the best technique? My Camera is a Canon EOS 400D. Thanks!

ANSWER 1:

Hi Ahmad –
I do a fair amount of bird photography and have learned a few things: first, the most important "accessory" you need is knowledge of the bird you are attempting to photograph. Get a good bird book for your region and study not only the picture of the bird, but something of its habits. If you take time to sit quietly, in your car, behind a window or near a feeder, and watch the birds, you will begin to learn something about their behavior and thus be better able to anticipate your shot.
As for equipment: I use several different lenses – Sigma 70-500mm, Canon 70-200mm, and Canon 28-135mm. I generally use a tripod, but on occasions, I shoot handheld or use a bean bag resting on a fence post, tree limb, car window, etc. Once again, if you know something about the bird you can more easily guess where to focus for the best results. Plan on making multiple images, since sometimes you will need to shoot rapidly in order to capture that one good image. I tend to select a fairly high shutter speed and it helps that my Canon 5D has a constant focus mode that permits clear focusing even if the subject moves during capture.
Be prepared for at least some level of frustration when trying to make good images of birds. I suspect that even the real experts have days when nothing goes right and each image is somehow flawed.
Good luck!

ANSWER 2:

For serious birding, lens choice will depend upon the quarry you seek. A fast super telephoto prime lens of at least 300mm that will accept matching teleconverters will be a wise choice for raptors or any other skittish species.
Waterfowl and wading birds can be easily approached in public parks and preserves where they've become accustomed to humans. In this scenario, shorter focal lengths will suffice.